Defining The Construction 123 526o6r

PRPJECT ON LASTING SUBMITTED BYTARANG KARPE BATCH – PGDM(FT) 10A ROLL NO. 28

SUBMITED TOMS. KUSHBOO BHATIA LASTING DEPARTMENT

(FDDI, NOIDA)

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

I have taken efforts in this project. However, it would not have been possible without the kind and help of Ms. Kushboo Madam, my colleges and my organization FDDI. I would like to extend my sincere thanks to all of them. I am highly indebted to (Footwear Design And Development Institute’s Guide) for their guidance and constant supervision as well as for providing necessary information regarding the project & also for their in completing the project.

PROJECT TOPIC AND SPECIFICATIONS 750 pairs of footwear production par day (lasting+finishing+packaging) the points to be written are as follows: Material requirement  Last requirement  Man power requirement  Machine requirement its specifications i.e. conveyer system, dimension etc.  Plant layout including upper storage finished goods storage along with additional office space, toilets, cafeteria etc.  Total area to be provided-2400 sq. Ft.  First plot area-40x30 sq. Ft.(1200 sq. Ft.)  Second plot area-40x30 sq. Ft.(1200 sq. Ft.)  Area between two plots-20 ft. That will be a road.  San crispino construction with synthetic upper, EVA mid sole, rubber out sole.

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he

onstruction:-

San Crispino Shoe Construction is a type of stitch-down footwear construction technique where upper material is flared outward and wrapped around and under the edge of an extended insole board. The upper is then stitched close to the last and cemented to the sole.

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ectional

iew:-

*The above mentioned language is German and the translation is as follows:-

1)Schaft mit futter- upper with lining\ Shaft with chuck 2)Brandsohle-insole 3)Doppelnaht-double seam 4)Klebstoff-glue\ adhesive 5)Ausballung-shaping 6)Laufsohle-outsole

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onstruction:-

 It is a light supple and the most flexible shoe and is also called as comfort shoe.  In earlier times this elaborate technique was known in Italian as "lavorzione viareggiano" and was only later named after Saint Crispin, the patron saint of tanners and shoemakers, who was martyred in a thousand years ago.  The identifying feature of this style of construction is the handsewn seam all round, which not only makes the shoe durable and comfortable but also gives it its typical San Crispino character.  However, it is currently enjoying a revival and is at the cuttingedge of fashion, and not just for men.  Ideal construction to meet the requirements for a comfortable feel-good shoe.

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hoe

aking

rocess:-

 To make the shoe, we first fit a midsole onto the last that overlaps it by five millimetres.  The shaft of the shoe is then hand-sewn onto the protruding edge of the midsole.  At the same time the shaft is moulded onto the last so that it can develop the comfortable wearing qualities so characteristic of BÄR.  Later, when the shoe is finished, the leather of the shaft will cover the edge of the midsole if we are using synthetic material as the upper this step is skipped.  We then raise the nap of the leather that is underneath the midsole and fix it with a special adhesive raising the nap is not done in other uppers.  The sole is positioned by hand and fixed, again with a special adhesive, by being pressed onto the shaft.  As well as the advantages mentioned above, such as flexibility and suppleness, the San Crispino construction also prevents the shoe's upper from coming away from the sole.

Examples Of Shoes Made From San Crispino Construction:-

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S O O :equence

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peration

TOE PUFF ATTACHMENT COUNTER MOULDING, TOWARDS OUTSIDE RUNNER ATTACHMENT WITH LAST FLANGING OF UPPER TWORDS OUTWARD DIRECTION ADHESIVE APPLICATION TO ATTACH UPPER WITH RUNNER OUTSOLE STITCHING ROUGHING HEAT SETTING ADHESIVE APPLICATION ON LASTED UPPER SOLE TREATMENT (IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE TYPE OF SOLE) ADHESIVE APPLICATION ON SOLE HEAT REACTIVATION SOLE SPOTTING SOLE PRESSING CHILLING DELASTING FINISHING & PACKAGING

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he

ole:-

In footwear industry, thermoplastic rubber is used in the the production of shoes soles, loaters sole, safety shoes sole & industrial shoes sole, sports shoes sole, ski-boot soles, kiddy shoes sole and related decorative accessories, unisole. modifier asphalt, modification modifier for SMC (sheet moulding compound) and other thermoset & thermoplastic composites.

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reatment (of TPR Sole):-

(HALOGENATION) PRIMER-TPR (POWDER + LIQUID) TPR Primers are specially formulated for halogenating Rubber, Synthetic materials and TPR soles used in footwear manufacturing. It can also be used as an alternative to mechanical roughing of Rubber soles. Primers are normally available in a powder form along with specific thinner. Both the products should be mixed at the manufacturers' factory as per the specified ratio (in case of TPR-22 of Fevicol, full content of TPR-22(powder) 25gms. should be directly added in TPR-22(liquid) 1000ml. bottle) Close the lid, stir thoroughly. If smaller quantity of primer is required, proportional quantity of powder & liquid should be mixed (e.g. 2.5 gms. powder in 100 ml liquid)

Application Method: Pour required quantity of primer in a small polythene or glass container and apply it on soles by using brush or cloth avoiding skin . Allow 2 to 3 hrs for drying before applying adhesive coat on soles. The primed surfaces should be protected from dust. it is important to note that although normally Halogenations remain effective for 2 weeks, it is advisable to use within 3-4 days. Keep mixed solution of unused quantity in the original amber coloured glass bottle. CAUTION:     

Do not Pour back the used mix, in the bottle. Use the mixed solution within 24 hrs for better performance. Mixed solution should not be stored in a metal container. Use soft brush for TPR substrates. The brush should not have metal parts which is exposed to primer.

SAFETY: Avoid direct skin with solution, use Rubber gloves while application.  Haated soles should be kept for drying for minimum 1 hr. before adhesive application.  Keep the primer in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight in a close container preferably below 30degree C.

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pecifications:-

COUNTRY PICTURE

MENUFECTURER MODEL

DESCRIPTION PRICE(INR)

Italy

STEMA

PP 02 (CE cert.)

Toe puff attaching m/c

150000

China

QiFeng Shoes Machine

QF-238S/L

Chilling Machineshoes machine

800000

China

Wenzhou Zhuda Machinery Co., Ltd

ZD1000P2.XB

freque polishing and brushing machine

100000

Italy

DEL MORO

N\A

Spray booth(3 pincers)

200000

Indonesia

Taiwan

NC-403

Dust Colector for 2 machine

22208

Italy

ELETTROTECNICA BC

300 (CE cert.)

Programmable heat setter 4 tracks

350000

Italy

HESPERIA

RIB/15 R (CE cert.)

Pounding m/c

127593

China

YUANYI SHOES MACHINERY FACTORY

YE-520B

Two Shaft Mightiness Roughing Machine

155000

Italy

MOLINAE BLANCHI

02SC0000

HEAT REACTIVATION

100000

ITALY

BANF s.r.l

P99/S

SOLE PRESS MACHINE

400000

ITALY

MEC-VAL

PC 82.R

SOLE MARKING MACHINE

50000

DISEL GENERATOR AIR COMPRESSOR

230000

CHINA CHINA

TM C otal

achine

ost:-

 Total cost-Rs. 12330439  Depreciation cost@10% would be-Rs. 1233043.9  Cost per month will be-1233043.9/12=Rs. 102753.658  Cost per day would be-102753.658/30=Rs. 3425.12  Cost per pair@750 pairs-3425.12/750=Rs. 4.56

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       

aterials

equirements:-

TPR sole – 75 Rs.\pair PU coated upper – 350 Rs.\sq.ft. EVA mid sole – 80 Rs.\sheet Neoprene – 155Rs.\Ltr. PU Adhesive - 165Rs\Ltr. Tack – 60Rs\half kg Size 40 thread – 180Rs.\cup(1500 Metre) Size 60 thread – 150Rs.\cup(1500 Meter)

Total per pair cost of raw materials: TPR sole per pair-75 Rs.  PU coated upper per pair-77.50 Rs.  EVA midsole per pair (12 pairs per sheet)-6.66 Rs.  Neoprene per pair-1.68 Rs.  PU adhesive per pair-2.12 Rs.  Tacks per pair-0.16 Rs.  12 cord rot-proof stitching thread per pair cost-1.20 Rs. Now by adding all the above values the total per pair cost of the raw materials came out to be-164.32 Rs.

Labour Cost [Delhi\NCR]: Skilled workers – Rs.193\day  Semi skilled workers – Rs. 174\day  Un-skilled workers – Rs. 152\day Machine

Dimension In Toe puff attaching 300X500 m/c Chilling Machine 4266X900 600X800 Spray booth 900X400 heat setter 850X530 Pounding m/c

1000X900 Roughing Machine 4266X900 HEAT REACTIVATION 850X530 SOLE PRESS MACHINE 200X300 SOLE MARKING MACHINE 597366.5X298218.7 DISEL GENERATOR 597366.5X298218.7 AIR COMPRESSOR Total Worker cost:-

Workers Time per required pair 1 semi skilled 1 unskilled 1 skilled 1 unskilled 10 skilled+4 helpers(will be responsible for hand lasting operation) 1 skilled 1 skilled 1 unskilled 1 unskilled

1 technician + 1 engineer Same as above

 Skilled X 13 = Rs. 2509  Semi-skilled X 1+ 4(helpers) =Rs. 870  Un-skilled X 4=Rs. 608

 Total cost =Rs. 3987 Therefore, per pair cost = 3987/750 = Rs. 5.31 Total Staff Cost (per month salary):     

Manager = Rs. 20000 Supervisor = Rs. 12000 Quality checker = Rs. 10000 Total per month cost = Rs.42000 Per day cost = 42000/30 = Rs.1400 Therefore cost per pair = Rs.1.86

Electricity cost of the factory:Formula to calculate electricity cost is =

So per pair cost = 0.14 Rs.

Overall cost per pair:Material cost\pair + Machine cost\pair + worker cost\pair + staff cost\pair + electricity cost\pair = Rs. 164.32 + Rs.4.56 + Rs. 5.31 + Rs. 1.86 + Rs.0.14 = Rs. 176.19

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equirement:-

Production/Day=750 pairs. Last Engaged Time=60 Mins. Expected Working Hours=8 Hrs Actual Working Hours=7 Hrs Last Rotation=Actual Working Hours/Last Engaged Time. Last Required= Total Production/Last Rotation. Last Rotation=420/60 Last Rotation=7 times. Last Required=750/7 Last Required=107 pairs. Rate=Rs450/pair. Cost=107*450. Last Cost=48150.

F

inishing:-

The shoemaking Process is a rough process its meant for giving a proper shape to the shoe.During this the appearance of the upper material may get affected. The process which Enhances the appearance and restores the inherent characteristics of the upper leather is called shoe finishing.Finishing is done to upgrade the quality of the shoe.

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CLEANING

SOCK ATTACHING

LACING

inishing

rocess:-

THREAD BURNING

POLISHING

STUFFING

PACKING

EDGE COLOURING

REPAIRING

QUALITY CHECK

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ACKAGING:-

There are 750 pairs of shoes to be packed every day. One pair can fit in a shoe box. One carton can have 12 pairs of shoe. Therefore for 750 pairs of shoes we need 73 cartons. The shoes would be placed (inside the carton) in accordance with the size and the demand of buyer.  Pricing of a box is – Rs.11  Pricing of carton is – Rs.34