Moscow In Your Pocket 2e2011

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moscow August - September 2010

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All you need to know about taking the Russian train

Moscow's parklife

Moscow's best parks, gardens, pools and beaches

Top 5 shashliks

August - September 2010 N°10 moscow.inyourpocket.com

Contents Реклама

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E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents Foreword A word from our Publisher

4

News What’s new in the city

5

Basics

6

Russian trains

10

Language Cyrillic Alphabet tips

13

Culture & Events Discover Moscow’s cultural scene

14

Exhibitions

20

Hotels

22

Restaurants From traditional Russian to Asian fusion

26

Nightlife

36

Moscow never sleeps...

Sightseeing

42

See St. Petersburg

52

Shopping

53

Business

55

Expat

57

All you need to know about the expat scene

Health & Lifestyle

59

Interview

61

Peter Richter

Maps



Street

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62 - 65 66

August - September 2010

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news

Foreword A lot of people have been asking me recently how we are doing now that I live in Moscow and a large part of my colleagues live in St. Petersburg. Especially given that we have been publishing Moscow In Your Pocket for over a year now and are starting to be taken quite seriously in the capital. Well, I can tell you, the answer is; we are doing very well! If you ask me, Russia is on the up and In Your Pocket is growing in popularity accordingly. We are growing so much in fact that I am now in the middle of a hunt for new colleagues. Anybody who is serious about doing business in Russia knows how frustrating it can be to look for new staff. I don’t know what it is with Russians and work. We’ve just come out of a serious economic crisis, but if I judge by the ‘serious’ approach to applying for a job here, it seems Russians haven’t really been affected much. For example I had this guy reacting to our vacancy, name of his CV: ‘Krutoi’ (translation: ‘awesome’), salary request 60.000$/month. Heck, if I the position paid that much I’d keep the job for myself! Then there is this thing about cancelling interviews. The best reason I've had so far is the girl who doesn’t want to meet with me because her parents told her that foreigners cheat you and that our company is probably a scam. I have never felt so offended - investing over ten years of my life to this country to be called a scammer? Excuse me! And then there are the standard excuses: I cannot come to see you because my mother is ill, but I promise I will return your call, although my personal favourite is - the ‘semenie obstayatyelstvo’ or ‘family crisis’. Which really means; I’m not interested or actually I want to go out to my dacha. If you start a company here and are looking for staff in August, don’t bother. By September most people have been on holiday and have had enough of the dacha so it might be worthwhile trying again then. Good luck! Ps: I must add here that I have a great dedicated team working through deadlines, no matter whether it is +38 or -25. Thanks to them this little book is really very good - enjoy! Bonnie van der Velde, Publisher In Your Pocket, Russia

Cover story Yuri Dolgoruki or Yuri Long-arms, is reputed to be the founder of Moscow and this statue, a masterpiece of socialist realism on Tverskaya ploschad appeared in 1954. Photo by Dreamstime.

Europe In Your Pocket

In Your Pocket is once again set to break new ground. Fresh from bringing you the most up-to-date city guides around, we have recently gone Dutch with a move into the Netherlands. The first issue of ’s-Hertogenbosch (Den Bosch) In Your Pocket is currently in the latter stages of preparation, and will appear soon. To be amongst the first to find out when the ’s-Hertogenbosch guide is published, and to keep up with all In Your Pocket news and events, become a fan of In Your Pocket on Facebook (facebook.com/ inyourpocket) and follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket). We welcome enquiries from anyone who would like to start up an IYP. Send us an email requesting more info: the address is [email protected].

Editorial department E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S Moscow In Your Pocket founded and published by OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket. Russia, 196084 St. Petersburg, Ul. Tsvetochnaya 25A, [email protected] © OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket Published 6 times per year with supplements, N 10, 01-08-2010, 30.000 copies © Maps Discus Media Ltd. License CZG N 02367-K since 25.05.08. www.discusmedia.spb.ru Роскартография ФГУП МАГП, 2005

Moscow In Your Pocket

Editor Louise Whitworth [email protected]

Commercial department Sales Managers Mikhail Bazhenov [email protected]

Copyright notice Text and photos copyright OOO Krasnaya Shapka 2003-2010. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket.

Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors. Москва В Твоем Кармане Учредитель и издатель: ООО Красная Шапка Россия, 196084 Санкт-Петербург Ул. Цветочная д. 25, лит. А. тел. : + 7 (812) 448 88 65 факс: + 7(812) 448 88 64 Главный редактор: Бонни ван дер Велде Отпечатано в типографии «Uniprint», Эстония, г. Таллинн, Ярвевана теэ, 9Ф Свидетельство о регистрации средства массовой информации Пи №2-6849 от 17.10.03 выдано Северо-Западным региональным управлением комитета РФ по печати. Цена свободная. Тираж 30 000 экз. № 9. 01.08.2010

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Moscow City Day

Metro News

With 2010 being Russia’s Year of the Teacher, this year’s 863rd celebration of the founding of the city will place special emphasis on youth and education. The birthday weekend runs 04 to 05 September and the city promises to host more than 3,500 different events, which are expected to be attended by more than two million people. As that’s quite a lot for us to write about, we will try to give you only the highlights. Down on Red Square, undoubtedly the biggest event is the Moscow Military Tattoo which opens on September 04 and runs every night until September 09, (see page 16 for more details). Meanwhile in the surrounding squares of Pushkinskaya, Tverskaya, Teatralnaya and Lubyanka stages will be erected and shows by local musicians, dancers and ‘respected artists of the Soviet Union’ will be performed. The city’s Boulevard Ring will become ‘the boulevard of art’ aimed specifically at youngsters who want to express their creativity and love of the city in crayons and paint, while the Hermitage gardens will host a book fair for adults and kids. Various events will also be taking place in Gorky park, the park at VDNKh (VVTs), Kolomenskoe, Tsaritsino and Park Pobedy will host its first festival of classical and jazz music (see pages 49/50 for details on how to get there). And it just wouldn’t be a real birthday party without the fireworks blasting off at 22:00 each night from Red Square and the hills of Park Pobedy.

New Stations opened. The expansion of Moscow’s massive metro system continues as two new stations, Dostoevskaya and Marina Roscha on the light green line, opened this summer. The Dostoevskaya station’s theme is obvious and if you are ing through the murals on the station platforms of shady looking Raskolnikov types in trench coats, make an interesting (if not slightly disconcerting) ing interest. The second station, Marina Roshcha, is themed around the verdant dacha filled area that was once here in the last century, and is filled with pretty mosaics of the Russian countryside. Interchange at Belorusskaya closed. The interchange at Belorusskaya metro station between the dark green and circle lines will be closed all the way up until December 01, as the escalators between the stations are replaced. Moscow’s hottest station revealed. And finally the hottest stations of Moscow’s metro have been revealed. When it’s 30 degrees on the street and you are trapped down on the platforms, it may feel like everywhere under the ground is a furnace, but according to recent testing the hottest stations in Moscow is Chekovskaya with an average of 30 degrees. Close behind on the sizzling scale are Kievskaya, Ulitsa 1905 Goda, Rechnoi vokzal and Tretyakovskaya where temperatures of 28 - 29 degrees were recorded. The study failed to mention the temperature inside the metro wagons, which we suspect is probably even higher. So high in fact that we’d probably rather not know.

Yom Kippur in Moscow Ramadan in Moscow On the night of Tuesday August 11 the month long Muslim fasting holiday of Ramadan begins. It is estimated that Moscow has between one and two million Muslims, most of whom hail from Tatarstan, Central Asia and the Russian Caucasus. For one month Moscow Muslims will only eat in the twilight hours until the holiday reaches its final culmination at the feast of Eid al-fatir or Uraza Bayram as it is known in Russia, which this year falls on Thursday September 09. The main hub of prayers and religious activity in Moscow is the Grand Mosque just off Prospekt Mira. Due to the mosque’s small size and the high number of local Muslim’s wanting to mark the occasion, the atmosphere can get claustrophobic and in previous years local churches and halls have had to stand in to help the flow of worshippers. Although largely Tatar, the Grand Mosque accepts Muslims from across the Muslim world as does the larger Memorial Mosque on Poklonnaya in Park Pobedy. Some embassies such as the Malaysian embassy also usually organise their own celebrations. For those looking to buy Halal products the Grand Mosque has its own supermarket, while the local markets Dorogomilovsky and Danilovsky have many Muslim sellers. See page 58 for Mosque addresses or head to the site www.muslim.ru for news from the Muslim community.

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September is not only an important month in the Muslim calendar, Russia’s Jewish population will also be celebrating this month with Yom Kippur or the Day of Atonement starting at sunset on Friday September 17. If you are looking to break the fast with some good kosher food we recommend you head to the cafe of the Synagogue on ulitsa Bolshaya Bronnaya or try the delightful Chagall restaurant in the Jewish Cultural Centre on Bolshaya Nikitskaya ul. For details of your local synagogue or Jewish centre see page 58.

In Your Pocket Online Russia In Your Pocket is not only a comprehensive series of printed guides to Russia’s favourite cities Moscow and St. Petersburg, we also run our own massive website covering thousands and thousands of venues in Moscow, St. Petersburg and further afield. Via russia.inyourpocket. com you can free pdf and iphone versions of our guides as well as offer us your and live comments on places that you’ve been to and liked, didn’t like or just couldn’t find. Our facebook group Russia In Your Pocket is the place to find out about events taking place near you, share tips, experiences and useful links and of course to get talking about Russia. And not to forget ‘Russian reality’ our editor writes a blog that will give you the background insight into the ups and downs of being constantly on the road finding all the useful information that makes In Your Pocket the ‘cheeky, well-written series of guidebooks’(New York Times) that it is. Find her at louiseinyourpocket.blogspot.com

August - September 2010

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Basics

Basics

24 hours

Making a Call

Leaving Moscow

Moscow never sleeps! Whether you want books or booze, sushi, a pint of milk, to see a dentist or get your house cleaned, the capital is working 24-7.

Calling Internationally

By Plane. If you are leaving by plane the most foolproof way of reaching the airport is by train on the so-called aeroexpress. Going to Sheremyetevo airport trains leave from Belorusskaya station, going to Vnukovo airport they leave from metro Kievskaya station and going to Domodedevo airport, aeroexpress trains leave from Paveletskaya station, all of which are connected to the metro circle line.

Alcohol While Russia is still the land of vodka, it’s also the country which loves beer - at any time of the day or night or on the way to work. Russians drink more beer (pivo) than anything else. Be ready to see drunk people anytime, anywhere. Vodka is cheap with literally hundreds of brands to choose from. Russky Standart Platinum, Diplomat and Zhuravly are pretty good. Locally brewed cheap staples for Moscovites are Sibirskaya Korona and Zolotaya Bochka. Sovietskoe Shampanskoe (Soviet Champagne) is the national party drink.

Communism Lenin’s mummified corpse in its Red Square Mausoleum (D-4) is one of the city’s prominent Communist reminders, not to mention the almighty Moscow Metro. Stalin’s red stars, atop the Kremlin towers, are still in place too. The elaborate kitsch chaos of the All Russia Exhibition Centre erected in the 1930s remains a testament to the Communist dream factory as does practically every other hulking square construction all over town. Most statues of Lenin, Marx, Engels and co. are still in place; Marx is still on Teatralnaya pl., Lenin on Oktyabrskaya pl. and everywhere you look you’ll find hammers and sickles. Muzeon sculture park (B/C-6/7), near the New Tretyakov have become a repository of Communist era statues.

Crossing the road Unless you want to play chicken with your life, you need to learn this word ! It means perekhod in Russian or under in English. When you see this sign above a tunnel, know that you can head safely under and cross under the street. Miss one and you can end up walking for another 200 or 300 metres. The busiest interchanges have around five different exits, entrances to different metro station and also quite a few shops.

Customs Most important is the completion of the MIGRATION CARD (that paper that you had to fill in when you arrived at port control). If you don’t carry drugs, billions of euros or weapons with you, you do NOT need to complete the ‘Customs and Currency Declaration Statement’ upon arrival or departure. This applies even if your cabin crew gives you this form. For most travellers leaving Russia you will just need to go to the GREEN (nothing to declare) channel. If you are carrying valuables, or are the argumentative type, then it is wise to fill in the customs declaration and have it stamped. In this instance you need to get in the RED (to declare) queue. In general, the rules are: CASH: You can bring in up to US$3,000 in cash without declaring it (considering we are in Russia this rule may vary). ART: Anything resembling art should be cleared in advance of departure at the Rosokhrankultura (Russian Cultural Security Department), Kitaigorodsky pr. 7, bldg. 2, tel. (+7) 495 660 77 30. It’s illegal to take out icons or paintings which are more than 100 years old. PRINTED MATERIAL: Once again, if it’s more than 100 years old, it’s not going anywhere. If it was published between 1903 and 1953, you will need an ‘expert’s report,’ either from the Rosokhrankultura or an accredited shop. Take the sales receipt of the item you are getting checked with you, along with your port or the port of the person who will take it out of the country.

Moscow In Your Pocket

The phone card is a a convenient way to make international calls at affordable costs. Various cards are available from phone shops such as Evroset (you can also use their card for internet access) and from some internet cafes and post offices. Dial the local access number, then the card number (), then the pin (parol) and then the number (without the OO) you wish to call.To phone home from a Moscow landline, you need to dial 8 then wait a little (not necessary if you have a digital line) then dial 10, followed by the country code, city code and actual telephone number.

Calling within Moscow

The Moscow city code is 495 but some parts of Moscow for example Kolomenskoye just outside the Circle Line, have the code 499. To dial numbers with a 495 code, if you are in the 495 code yourself, simply dial the number. Hey presto, connection! If you‘re in the 495 area, but need to call to another code it is the same as calling within Russia, see below.

Calling within Russia

For calling within Russia or even within Moscow where there are different codes, simply dial 8, then wait for a long tone (not necessary if you have a digitial line), then the city code, then the number. Depending on which telephone company provides the telephone, you have to enter an additional prefix after the 8. So calling St. Petersburg for example, you have to dial 8, then 53 or 55 depending on your telephone service provider. Confusing, right?

Disabled travellers With its old cobbled streets, steep inclines and the maze of perekhods (crossings) under the street, Moscow is rather unfriendly for the disabled. While the metro is impressive, it is practically impossible for wheelchair s to access it. Things are changing slowly. As the modernisation of Moscow’s hotels, museums and restaurants continues, more and more venues now have wheelchair access and disabled facilities. Faster trains plying the route between Moscow and St.Petersburg have special wagons for the disabled. Look for the U sign in this magazine. For travellers with visual and/or hearing difficulties: Russian drivers are no gentlemen, so be careful!

Climate Moscow is usually baking in August and many locals head away to their country homes to escape the heat of the city, so make sure you stay hydrated and give yourself some time in the shade of a tree in the park. September is usually a lovely warm and sunny month. As Russia has been experiencing consistent heatwaves expect September to continue into an Indian summer.

Aeroexpress tickets can be bought at the aeroexpress ticket counters (kassa) in the train terminals and cost 350Rbl for each adult. Note that the timetable often has intervals of an hour, and it takes 35-40 minutes to get to the airports. The only drawback is there are no toilets, and trains do not operate throughout the night. They have a hotline 8 800 700 33 77 where you can listen to the timetable free of charge or you can also check departures on their website www. aeroexpress.ru. If you plan to reach the airport by taxi, give yourself at least three hours to get their as Moscow traffic can be completely unpredictable. And if you want to try to get there by public transport, our advice would be…don’t’ bother. Just get your wallet out and save yourself a long and painful journey by paying for the aeroexpress train!

Floors In Russia the ground floor doesn’t exist as such. When you’re on the ground floor, you’re really on the first floor. And so on.

Foreigner prices The ‘foreigner price’ is a hangover from the good old days of Intourist-organised Soviet travel. At some theatres and museums, foreigners are required to pay twice to 6 times more than Russians. These institutions say that Russian tickets are subsidised whereas foreigners paying the ‘real price.’ If you have a document (propusk), which says you work or study in Russia, you are theoretically entitled to the local price.

Habits Russians are superstitious - in the Ploshchad Revolutsy metro, take note of all the shiny pistols and dog noses on the statues which have all been polished smooth by Russians rubbing them to bring good luck. Russians are also keen on cleanliness. When entering a Russian household, to take your shoes off as soon as you get inside. Usually your host will offer you slippers (tapochki). Chivalry is alive and thriving which, for some can take some getting used to.

Health & Safety Like all of today’s large cities, Moscow is no stranger to terrorism. Many will recall the Dubrovka Theatre siege of 2002, as well the recent Moscow metro bombing. Terrorism aside, Moscow’s criminal underbelly no doubt sees tourists and business men as small fry. Cross roads using the perekhod where possible and don’t run across multi lane boulevards! Other dangers include dodgy electrical fittings, temperamental gas stoves, uncovered manholes and absinthe. Moscow’s water board guarantees that the water is drinkable when it leaves the processing plants, but it can’t guarantee it will reach your apartment in the same condition, so play it safe and stick to bottled water.

Internet Access Most cafes, restaurants and bars in Moscow have free wifi access or offer wifi for a small sum. Go inside buy a drink and surf the web, as if you are hoping to ‘steal’ the wifi from outside you will probably require a ‘parol’ () that you need to ask for. Many shops also sell 'Yota' plug in internet devices which will give you wifi everywhere. You can also head to a branch of popular 24hr internet cafe Cafemax if you need a computer. Cafemax D-5, Ul. Pyatnitskaya 25/1, MNovokuznetskaya, www.cafemax.ru, tel. (+7) 495 646 74 12

Mobile Phones You can use your mobile phone from home if your provider has a roaming agreement with a Russian mobile company. If you call with your mobile to a Russian number, you‘ll need to put in all the numbers, so for Moscow +7 495 followed by the number. To avoid roaming charges, you can get a Russian SIM card. They range in price starting from 200Rbl up to 400Rbl depending on the package. You’ll need to bring your port to the store to your new sim card and to put your old number onto a new sim card if you lose your phone. Note that outside Moscow your Russian sim will also be on roaming.

Telephone codes Russian city codes Archangelsk 8182/818 Novgorod 8162/81622 Irkutsk 3952 Novosibirsk 3832 Kazan 8432 Petrozavodsk 8142 Moscow 495/499 Pskov 8112/81122 Murmansk 8152/81522 St.Petersburg 812 Leningrad 813 Vladivostok 4232 Oblast The above Russian city codes should be prefixed with 8 if dialling from inside Russia

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Рекалма

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International country codes Austria 43 Denmark Belgium 32 Estonia Canada/USA 1 Finland China 86 Cuba 53 Czech Rep. 420 India

45 372 358 33 49 91

Italy Japan Latvia Lithuania Netherlands Norway

39 81 371 370 31 47

Russia Spain Sweden Turkey Ukraine UK

7 34 46 90 380 44

Codes should be prefixed with 8-10 if dialling inside Russia. After dialing 8, wait for the second tone - this is only if you do NOT have a digital line.

August - September 2010

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Basics

Basics History

Be on guard!

Money

Pickpocket places Red Square, Ul. Tverskaya, metro rush hour and busy downtown streets are popular places for pick-pockets. A tried and tested trick is to block the entrances/exits of public transport and metro entrances (particularly during rush hour which for Moscow is almost all the time). It may be wiser to leave valuables in your hotel’s safe and carry only enough cash for the day. Don’t be too conspicuous. Think twice about leaving mobile phones in bags or coats when checking them at museums, theatres, airport or train stations.

The national currency is the ruble (Rbl). Banknotes come in denominations of 10, 50, 100, 500, 1,000 and the 5,000 note. Ruble coins come in 1, 2, 5 and 10Rbls. There are 100 kopeks to a ruble and kopek coins come in 1, 5, 10 and 50. Officially, it’s illegal to pay in dollars or euros. Keep a hold of small notes as shop keepers often have no change at all. If you want to pay for that bread, it is up to you to find some change yourself. Not all establishments take credit cards, even if they have signs that say they will. Always have cash as back up. American Express travellers’ cheques are exchangeable at most banks, for a commission free exchange, you can go to the Bank of Moscow, Ul. Tverskaya 8, tel. (+7) 495 925 80 00. Most Russian banks also offer Western Union money transfers (see www.westernunion.ru for a complete list). You may want to warn your bank before arriving in Russia, in case they see your withdrawals as unauthorised transactions or robbery and cancel your cards. The maximum withdrawal amount is between 7,000 - 15,000Rbl.

Police! The police here generally look for any excuse to fine you, so photocopy your port and visa. Make sure that you always carry a few photocopies; if the police stop you (they check Russians all the time too) then show them the photocopy rather than the original.

Post

01 - fire 02 - police (militsiya) 03 - ambulance 937 9911 - Moscow Rescue Service (operators speak Russian, but will connect you with an English speaking operator)

Only believe half the stories you hear about Russia’s post system. Mail may get detoured, but usually not lost. If you need to get something in or out of the country in a hurry, consider a courier service. A letter to Europe or Australia takes around three weeks. In addition to these offices below, you can also buy stamps from any post office in Moscow and drop them into any dark blue post box around the city.

Central Telegraph Office C-3, Ul. Tverskaya 7, MTver-

skaya. Despite the name, does all postal related chores including sending parcels, faxes, and email.QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Main Post Office E-2, Ul. Myasnitskaya 26, MChistiye Prudy. From here, you can post letters and postcards, buy stamps or make a telephone call.QOpen 24hrs. DHL C-3, Central Telegraph Office, Ul. Tverskaya 7, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 956 10 00, www.dhl.ru. There are over 12 offices around Moscow including this DHL agency on Tverskaya. Westpost Dmitrovskoye shosse 27, 1034-1035, MTimuryazevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 730 59 42, www. westpost.ru.QOpen Mon - Fri 09:00 - 20:00.

Queuing Russians have rules for queing? It may seem improbable when confronted with the Russian populace enmasse inside the metro but outside public transport Russians adhere to queuing rules strictly. The modus operandi involves fronting up to the dispersed group and asking ‘Kto pasledny?’ (Who’s last? To which someone will (hopefully) answer ‘Ya’ (meaning me). Now that you’ve identified the person in front of you, all you need to do is wait for your turn. Unwritten rules include telling the person behind you that you are just nipping out for a cigarette and will be back in five minutes.

Moscow In Your Pocket

What to do if you are robbed Cancel your credit cards as soon as possible. Carry copies of your credit cards with international customer service numbers somewhere other than your wallet. Your embassy can help you if your port has been stolen see moscow.inyourpocket. com for addresses. More safety... Avoid attracting unwanted attention by not speaking loudly in your mother tongue, or walking the streets if you have been drinking. If you are of African, Arab, or Asian descent or have dark skin exercise caution, particularly at night.

Registration that you must be ed within 72 hours of your arrival in Russia. If you’re staying at a hotel, the hotel is legally obliged to you within 24 hours of arrival. Many tourist agencies can also you. If you don’t get ed on time, you can expect serious problems when leaving, ranging from paying a fee, to missing your flight while officials interrogate you. For more information see russia. inyourpocket.com.

or or

= ladies = gentleman

Toilets Difficult to find a public toilet that’s free? If the portable lavatory doesn’t thrill you, try McDonald’s or random hotels, cafes and restaurants. Utter the words ‘Gdye tualyet?’ (‘Where is the toilet?’) while flashing a friendly smile and most will let you use their facilities. For some reason many Russians prefer to stand and squat on public toilet seats, so look carefully at what you are about to sit on. Often public toilets do not have tualyetny bumaga (toilet paper) in the stalls, so if in doubt ask for some from the attendant.

Travel Agencies Ost-West Kontaktservice E-3 Ul. Myasnitskaya,

22/2/5, office 216 MLubyanka tel. 495 628 79 76, www.ostwest.com

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1147 Prince Yuri Dolgoruky founds Moscow. 1237 Genghis Khan’s grandson and his Mongolian army burn Moscow down. For the next 230 years Russian principalities pay tribute to the Tatars ‘Golden Horde’. 1325 Moscow becomes the seat of the Russian Orthodox Church and in 1453 the Third Rome. 1475-79 Ivan III (the Great) throws off Tatar rule, and Moscow becomes the capital of a unified Russian state. 1533 Three year old Ivan IV (the Terrible) becomes Grand Duke and proclaims himself tsar (emperor) in 1547. 1598 After the death of Ivan the Terrible a power struggle begins. Boris Godunov (a Romanov) becomes tsar, but dies in 1605 and in 1613 the Poles are ousted from Moscow ending the Years of Troubles. 1613 – 1672 The growing metropolis is rocked by numerous peasant uprisings against the power of the bureaucratic Boyars. Peter the Great is born and in 1682 becomes tsar 1712 Peter the Great makes St. Petersburg the new capital of Russia. 1812 French emperor Napoleon Bonaparte enters Moscow to find it abandoned; erupting fires reduce 2/3 of the city to ashes during the 39 day occupation. 1813 Architects start to rebuild the ruined city. Moscow changes from a feudal town into a bourgeois city and enters the 'Golden Age' of music, art and ideas. 1918 Following the Revolution the Bolsheviks move the seat of government to Moscow in 1922 it becomes the capital. 1935 The first Metro line is opened. 1941 The nazis invade Russia forcing the Soviets to enter World War II. They advance to within a few hundred miles of Moscow but the city stands firm. By the end of the war on May 09 1945 almost 30 million Soviets have died. 1950s Decade of Stalin’s Gothic architecture and Russian baroque. Most famous are the Seven Sisters Skyscrapers. 1953 Stalin dies. Truths about Stalin’s repressions are later revealed by Khrushchev (now leader of the USSR). 1980 Moscow hosts the Summer Olympics, boycotted by western countries due to the war in Afghanistan. Olympic Mishka becomes the most popular Olympic mascot of all time. 1987 Gorbachev introduces political and economic reforms perestroika. Anti-communist movements spread across the USSR and in 1990, the Soviet Union collapses. 1990 The first McDonalds opens at Pushkin Square with queues of 5km. Moscow party chief Boris Yeltsin becomes Russia’s first democratically elected president in 1991. 1993 Russia faces a constitutional crisis and in October Moscow’s White House is stormed in an attempt to crush a coup. Yeltsin remains the president. Mid - late1990s From a city with almost no restaurants, hidden clubs and KGB prostitutes Moscow rises as Night Life and Party Capital where everything is available - from naked hairdressers to dancing in the Gulag Club. 1994 Moscow’s mayor Yury Luzhkov decides to rebuild Church of Christ the Saviour, which opens in 2000. 1998 The Rouble fails, Moscow suffers a major economiccrash powered by rapid inflation. Boris Yeltsin resigns on New Year 2000 and Vladimir Putin becomes President. 2002 Moscow gets back on track towards becoming the world's most expensive city. At the same time, the city becomes the playing field for Chechen terrorists who plant bombs in the Metro and in October 2002, the audience of the Dubrovka theatre is held hostage. 130 die in the bungled rescue attempt. 2008 Putin finishes his 8 year term and Dmitri Medvedev becomes the new Russian President with Putin acting as Prime Minister. 2010 In March two female suicide bombers kill 38 people in the Lubyanka and Park Kultury metro stations.

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National holidays Note: all government offices and most other official institutions are closed on public holidays. Working days are often shifted. For instance, if it falls on a Tue or a Thu, then the weekend is shifted a day towards the holiday and the Sat or the Sun becomes an official working day. January 1 ........................................................... New Year January 7 ......................................... Orthodox Christmas February 23 ..................... Defender of the Fatherland Day (informally known as Men’s Day) March 8 ................................ International Women’s Day May 1 ......................................Day of Spring and Labour May 9 .............................................................. Victory Day June 12 ........................................................... Russia Day November 4 .................................... Day of Popular Unity

Getting Around Public Transport Buses, Trolleybuses and Trams – The bus, trolleybus

and tram network functions under the same ticketing system. Buy tickets from the small kiosks near to bus stations for 24Rbl a single ticket, 5 trips for 90Rbl, 10 for 180Rbl and 20 trips will set you back 350Rbl. Buying your ticket onboard costs you 28Rbl.

Moscow Metro – Moscow’s metro is fast and efficient

and the second busiest in the world after the Tokyo metro. Cost per ride is 26Rbl (it is usually wise to buy a few trips in one go). Operating hours are from 05:30/06:00 until 01:00. To enter, swipe the metro card then go through the barriers (the barriers will hit you if you don’t swipe the card first!). Plan your trip in advance on www.metroway. ru (interactive) or www.mosmetro.ru.

Car Rental For those who can’t be without a car, here are some people who‘ll give you one.

AVIS Russia Car Rental tel. (+7) 925 046 99

49, www.avis-rentacar.ru. Has an office at International Airport Sheremetyevo 2 Terminal F, arrival hall, which operates daily from 09:00 - 23:00, tel. 8 925 046 99 49. Hertz 1st Brestskaya, 34, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 232 08 89, www.hertz.ru.QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Sixt Ul. Novoslobodskaya 20, MMendeleevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 589 11 11, www.sixt-rent.ru.

Taxis Taxis to the city centre and airports depend on the taxi driver (his/her mood) and the time of day rather than where the station is. Short trips around the city cost around 300 - 500Rbl.

New Yellow Taxi tel. (+7) 495 940 88 88. Taxi Shanson tel. (+7) 495 925 75 13, www. tshanson.ru.

Taxity tel. (+7) 495 988 19 88, www.taxity.ru. XXL Taxi tel. (+7) 495 995 82 94. August - September 2010

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russian trains

Travelling by Russian train is a fun, memorable and completely unique Russian experience – but it all of course depends on where you are going and what kind of train you are taking. With the In Your Pocket team having spent a full nine years in Russia, seven of them devoted solely to these very guides, we’ve taken more than our fair share of Russian trains. Between us we’ve clocked up weeks and possibly months, spent on trains travelling between Moscow, St. Petersburg, Sochi, Ukraine, the Baltics and many, many more towns and even have a whopping five trans-Siberian trips under our belts. So if you are taking the train for the first time this summer we’ve collected up all the information you might ever need to know. By Louise Whitworth

russian trains There are generally three classes of compartments in the trains

Elektrichka If you are heading out to small towns somewhere in the nearby countryside or just diving deep into Moscow’s sprawling suburbs, you may well be going there by elektrichka (local train). This is real Russian life. Hard wooden benches for seats, no toilets, no air-conditioning (just open windows) and during your whole trip sellers will badger you with whatever they have on offer: ice-cream, maps, shoestrings, magnifying glasses, lighters in the shape of matches and so on. To enter you need to buy small barcoded tickets from the ticket windows and scan them through the turnstiles. Hold on to your ticket as it will be checked again during the journey. Many cheapskates prefer not to buy a ticket and can be instead seen jumping off platforms, running over tracks and then climbing up embankments and over bridges to avoid the turnstile fare.

number of the train seat or bed number (myesta) your port number – check when you buy the ticket that the seller copied it correctly Note all times are always Moscow time – even when you’re in a different time zone. 1st class (luxe) - These cabins have only two beds in them (so plenty of space) and are usually complimented by free drinks and flowers on the table.

that’s you!

arrival time

Buying tickets

Trans-Siberian adventures

If you like tor ture, buy your tickets from the ticket windows (kassa) at one of the train stations. We recommend going at 6am on Sunday morning when there are less people. People in the queues are not shy and retiring types and will push in all over the place so keep your wits about you and don’t be afraid to get pushy. When choosing a ticket window, ensure they are not due to take a break in the next hour or two. Most cashiers don’t speak English so it can be handy to write down on a piece of paper the dates and times that you would like to go and tr y to copy down the name of the cities – for example Москва (Moscow) – in Russian just for clarity. You can always buy from a ticket agency for a less painful experience, they will usually charge you around 200Rbl commission per ticket.

The Trans-Siberian as it is known in popular travel-lore is actually just the name of the rail tracks and there are in fact three different marathon train journeys that cross Siberia and into the Far East. The journey all the way to Vladivostok (the trans-sib route) takes 6 days and crosses 7 time zones. There are two other routes which can also be taken – the Moscow-Beijing (transManchurian) and th e Moscow-Beijing via Ulan Bator (Trans-Mongolian) both of which also take about 6 days and nights. If you are taking any of these routes you will of course probably want to stop a few times and sample some of the towns along the way. This can be a complicated thing to arrange by yourself, although not impossible. Tickets for trains can be bought 45 days in advance and in theory if you book far enough ahead and in an organized manner you can buy separate tickets for your whole trip in one go. Yes it is as complicated as it sounds and the cashier you buy from will probably make the process as difficult as possible, but if you are really on a budget and will only travel third class that’s probably the least of your worries. Usually most people prefer to arrange their tickets through a tour agency such as palytra.com or vodkatrain.com, who charge up to three times the usual rate for tickets but provide lots of helpful extra services along the way.

2nd class (Kupe) - Kupes have four beds in them and are probably the most convenient for the average traveler as they provide plenty of space, but are still cheaper than taking a plane.

Long Distance Trains The majority of the trains tracing their way across the country tend to go over-night. Between Moscow and St. Petersburg dozens of night trains leave every evening, taking anything from 8 to 12 hours to complete the journey. Heading further afield journeys can take anything from 30 hours (Moscow – Sochi), to 6 days (Moscow – Vladivostok).

Places to visit en route Buying tickets online

3rd class (platzkart) - The third class platzkart is the class that most of the average Russians take as it is the cheapest. Here the carriages are open so there are no doors and you have to share the space with the smells and snores of all your fellow engers. The beds are accordingly shorter and you have to make up your own bedding roll. Beds on the side (bokovye) are particularly short, so if you are over five feet tall, think again. The experience can be claustrophobic and hot and the queues for the toilets endless, but at the same time the meetings that you will have with Russians in the platzkart can be amongst the most memorable.

Moscow In Your Pocket

number of your carriage (vagon)

departure date

Types of train Sapsan Express Trains Almost all Russian trains are long-distance ones (for obvious reasons) although between St. Petersburg and Moscow there is also a super flashy new express train called Sapsan which travels between the cities at great speeds and completes the journey in just 4 hours. Built in , it is efficient and modern inside and is especially popular with those travelling between the cities for business. Trains usually leave 8 times a day (at the same times from both cities) and the earliest arrivals are at around 09:00 while the latest are at 23:40. Trains leave/arrive at Moskovsky vokzal in St. Petersburg (metro station pl. Vosstaniya) and leave/arrive at Leningradsky vokzal (metro station Komsomolskaya) in Moscow.

departure time – don’t be late, they won’t wait!

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www.rzd.ru The official booking site of the Russian railway. The booking page itself is only available in Russian and you can only pay with credit cards (no debit cards). When you have booked, head to the station and looking for the ticket machines. Type in your booking number and port details and it will print you a ticket. realrussia.co.uk Run from the UK, this is a much more friendly way to buy a ticket if you can't speak or read Russian. palytra.com Specialising in big train adventures, you can book tickets to Siberia and Asia here, as well as plane tickets if you get tired of days on end spent in a Siberian train.

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Until you reach the middle of Siberia and the edges of the steppe all three routes through the same cities. Places that you might consider spending a few days in include: Nizhny Novgorod – an ancient Russian town known for its traditional craftsmen and artisans based right on the Volga. Yekaterinburg – the border town between Europe and Asia and the place where the last tsars were murdered by the Bolsheviks. Novosibirsk - Siberia’s scientific capital is also Siberia’s biggest city while the neighbouring old wooden town of Tomsk remains a quiet backwater. Irkutsk and lake Baikal - The nearest city to the world’s largest and deepest lake is Irkutsk, which is about 6 hours drive from the pristine nature of one of the natural wonders of the world. It is after Irkutsk that the various train routes start to split with one train heading down to the capital of Mongolia and the other to the northern Chinese city of Harbin and finally Beijing, whilst the Russian train continues on towards the pacific ocean.

August - September 2010

Language

russian trains Train Stations

Life on the Train

All of Moscow’s train stations are located next to metro stations, usually on the Koltsevaya (Circle) Line. Train stations tend to have little information in English so if you have tickets already, take note of your train number to be able to navigate and coordinate where you need to go. Belorussky Station (BS) Tverskaya Zastava pl. 7, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 499 266 03 00. Trains go from here to Berlin, Warsaw, Minsk, Vilnius and Kaliningrad. Kazansky Station (KazS) Komsomolskaya pl. 2, MKomsomolskaya, tel. (+7) 499 917 31 52. Gateway to the East, trains run to Kazan, Tashkent, Samara, Ulan-Ude and beyond. Kievsky Station (Kiev) Kievskogo Vokzala pl. 2, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 499 240 70 71. As well as to Kiev, trains leave to Odessa, Budapest, Bucharest and Kishenev. Kursky Station (Kur) Ul. Zemlyanoy Val 29, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 499 266 53 10. Local trains depart from the right hand side of the station (first floor). Leningradsky Station (LS) Komsomolskaya pl, 3 MKomsomolskaya tel. (+7) 499 262 91 43 Hub for trains going north to Helsinki, Tallinn and St. Petersburg. Paveletsky Station (PS) Paveletskaya pl. 1 M Paveletskaya tel. (+7) 499 950 37 00. Today the station sends trains to Domodedovo Airport via the Aeroexpress train. Rizhsky Station (RS) Rizhskaya pl. 79/3 , M Rizhskaya tel. (+7) 499 971 15 88. You’ll come here if you are heading to Riga or elsewhere in Latvia. Yaroslavsky Station (YarS) Komsomolskaya pl. 5 M Komsomolskaya tel. (+7) 495 631 15 88. To the Golden Ring and beyond all the way to Vladivostok.

Food and Drink Each carriage has its own samovar powered by coal where you can get hot water for your tea or for your instant noodles. Pay careful attention not to burn yourself as the water coming out of it is constantly scorching. Most long distance trains also have a buffet car where you can get hot and cold meals and socialize with a beer, although the food on offer is hardly gourmet to say the least. On train journeys that last more than one day, the train usually stops for long (20 to 40 minutes) periods of time at towns and villages along the way, giving you time to buy some snacks and local produce (such as fresh pies, pickled cucumbers or berries depending on the season) from vendors and grannies on the platform. Just be careful to check when the train leaves the station. Smoking is usually allowed in the spaces between carriages and more often than not in the buffet car.

Railway Museum The Moscow History Museum of railway transport Rizhskaya Train Station, MRizhskaya, tel. (+7) 495 266 82 08. Hidden around the tracks of the Rizhskaya train station are dozens of old Russian steam trains. Some date all the way back to pre-revolutionary times, whilst others look more distinctly Soviet and futuristic. The preserved carriages are fascinating, especially the ones that were used to transport soldiers during world war two. These wooden carriages with simple wooden planks for sleeping on and a stove to burn wood and coal in to keep warm were designed to sleep 40 men - plus eight horses! During an excursion you can also travel out on one of the steam trains, towards the train depo (which is still used by electric trains today), where you can see a train turntable in action. Q Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue.

Moscow In Your Pocket

Arriving When you arrive at your vagon (carriage) you will be greeted by a provodnik/provodnitsa who will first check your ticket and direct you to your bed. These train attendants rule the carriage whilst it is moving and it is good to keep the right side of them as they can turn out to be your best friend or your worst enemy, especially in the morning on a hangover. They can sell you hot and cold drinks from their little cabin next to the toilets and will bring you fresh sheets in a plastic bag to put on your bed.

Toilets and washing The shorter the journey the cleaner the toilets, although generally as the train attendant cleans them every few hours, Russian trains tend to have reasonable toilet facilities on a par with the best European trains and often above them. Beware that as there are only two toilets per carriage, if you are in third class you will be queuing for a long time and the toilets are usually locked 20 minutes before arriving and after leaving a station. There are of course no shower facilities on the long distance trains so you will have to make do with the washbasin and some baby wipes. To get the water to come out of the tap you need to push up the tap from the bottom, there are no on and off knobs to turn and for most first timers this can take a long time to understand. If you are a really efficient traveler you could even considering bringing a bath plug and giving yourself a wet shave – although expect stony faces when you exit if you are in there more than ten minutes! Dos and Don’ts of the Russian train: Don’t put your feet on the beds/chairs if you have shoes on. Seems obvious but many people have been known to do it if they are sleeping on a top bunk and for Russians it is the height of rudeness. If you want to look the part and be comfortable just bring some slippers with you like everyone else. Do bring toilet paper and baby wipes (just in case). Don’t forget your port. Even when the trains aren’t crossing borders they always check your port before you board. Do bring snacks. You won’t need a whole kitchen full of food but some small snacks that you can share with your travelers are always a nice touch. Especially if they are something you’ve brought with you from abroad. Do bring some extra entertainment along. Yes the view is nice, but if travelling for more than a night you will soon get bored. A book, guitar, travel chess, backgammon or a pack of cards are all good props to bring to keep you amused and help break the ice with your fellow travelers. Don’t drink vodka with your Russian companions. Ok, have one drink with them, it’s polite and part of ‘getting into the culture’ and will the time, but if it looks like it’s going to be a long drinking session, don’t be afraid to drop out. If you do decide to continue drinking with them; at least eat something! Don’t drink vodka with soldiers. Even if you think you should be polite and accept their offer, don’t even think about doing it. Ever. Trust us.

moscow.inyourpocket.com

Moscow Nights

Moscow Nights or Evenings In The Countryside Near Moscow (Podmoskovnye Vechera) as it really should be translated, is officially the most popular song of the Soviet period (alongside the war time classics Katusha and Dyen Pobedy). Originally written as Leningradskie Vechera by composer Vasily Solovyov-Sedoy and poet Mikhail Matusovsky in 1955, the Soviet Ministry of Culture then requested that a Moscow version of the song be made for use in a documentary film about the Spartakiad sports competition. The film itself was not particularly memorable but the song somehow struck a cord and was soon played heavily on radio stations across the Soviet Union. Somehow it then made its way in translation to the US (via a dixie/blues re-mix), but it's China that really took the song to heart. Even today Podmoskovnye Vechera is still regularly sung at Chinese parties (in its Chinese version) and even President Hu Jintao is known to be a big fan. As Moscow celebrates city day this September, expect to hear that (and modern dance hit Moscow Never Sleeps) pumping out of every stereo. Even whispers aren’t heard in the garden, Everything has died down till morning. If you only knew how dear to me Are these Moscow nights. The river moves, unmoving, All in silver moonlight. A song is heard, yet unheard, In these silent nights. Why do you, dear, look askance, With your head lowered so? It is hard to express, and hard to hold back, Everything that my heart holds. But the dawn’s becoming ever brighter. So please, just be good. Don’t you, too, forget These summer, Moscow nights.

/

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Although the official language is Russian, more than 100 minority languages are spoken. Knowledge of English is sadly not as widespread as in European countries. If you can learn the Cyrillic alphabet it will make your life a lot easier.

Pocket Dictionary: Remont Cast your eye down the flowing boulevards of the ancient city and what do you see? Scaffolding, green mesh overhanging hundreds of facades and huge metal walls covered in advertising. These facades are under ‘remont’, the Russian equivalent of renovation and repair. Remont can be inside and out, in all weathers, all hours of the day, and all days of the week. Remont does not only apply to buildings and construction, there’s also ‘Remont obuvi’ (Shoe Repair) which is one of those ingenious Russian businesses, often operating out of a pre-fab box in an under-. In fact you can take almost anything in to get remont done, by a master, be it a laptop or a handbag. Priceless.

Alphabet

Practicalities No/Yes Hello Good Bye How are you? Thank you Sorry Please I don’t understand

13

реклама

12

nyet/da zdrastvuite dasvidanya kak dela? spasibo izvinitye pazhalusta ya nye panimayu

August - September 2010

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Culture & Events

Cinemas 35mm Ul. Pokrovka 47/24, MKrasniye Vorota, tel.

(+7) 495 917 18 83, www.kino35mm.ru. Main stream and art films shown in original translations. 5 Zvezd. D-5 B. Obchinnikovskiy per. 16, Novokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 916 91 69 and E-7 Ul. Bakhrushina 25 Paveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 916 916 9. 5zvezd. ru. Popular cinema showing a wide range of Hollywood blockbusters in original language (note not all films are in original language). Dome Cinema Olympisky pr 18/1, MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 495 931 98 73, www.domecinema.ru. Screening films in English without dubbing them into Russian is wonderful but sometimes the sound here is not amazing.

Concert Halls Most theatres close during the summer, but some are still running special summer repetoires. By the time Septmber arrives though the cultural schedule usually gets back into swing.

Column Hall of House of the Unions (HU) C-3 Ul. Bolshaya Dmitrovka 1, MTeatralnaya, (+7) 495 692 09 56, www.domsojuzov.ru International House of Music - Chamb er Hall (IHMC) F-7, Kosmodamianskaya Nab. 52,

bldg. 8, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 730 10 11, www.mmdm.ru.

International House of Music - Svetlanov Hall (IHMS) F-7, Kosmodamianskaya Nab. 52, bldg. 8, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 730 10 11, www.mmdm.ru.

International House of Music - Theatre Hall (IHMT) F-7, Kosmodamianskaya Nab. 52, bldg.

8, M Paveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 730 10 11, www.mmdm.ru. Mocow Philharmonic Chamber Hall (PCH) B-2, Ul. Tverskaya 29, bldg. 3, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 232 04 00, www.meloman.ru. Moscow Conservatory Small Hall (CSH) B-3/4, Ul. Bolshaya Nikitskaya 13/6, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 629 94 01, www.mosconsv.ru.

Moscow Philharmonic Tchaikovsky Hall (PTH)

B-2, Triumfalnaya Pl. 4/31, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 232 04 00, www.meloman.ru. Rakhmaninov Conservatory Hall (RH) B-3/4, Ul. Bolshaya Nikitskaya 11, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 232 04 00, www.meloman.ru.

Tickets for Theatre & Events Tickets for most events can be bought at one of the many ticket offices (teatralnaya kassa). Of course each venue sells its own tickets and some let you reserve tickets on the internet. Tickets can also be bought online at booking agencies such as www.kassir.ru, www.kontramarka. ru and www.parter.ru (in Russian only). The excellent site www.innshopping.ru have booking pages in English and will deliver tickets for free in Moscow. Venues such as the Bolshoi Theatre (www.bolshoi.ru) have an online box office. Choose your seats, pay by Visa or Mastercard and then pick up your tickets before the performance.

Moscow In Your Pocket

Culture & Events

What’s on and When Finding out about what’s going in Moscow just got a whole lot easier! We’ve redesigned the Culture and Events pages of our website so to include a calendar that lists all the events going on in the city. Not just the ones we have printed here. To use it, head to moscow.inyourpocket. com and click on the culture and events link. Select a date on the calendar in the top left hand corner and all number of concerts, shows, holidays and exhibitions will spring up in front of your eyes! Yes it’s all as simple as that.

Theatres Ballet and opera are the bread and butter of the Russian cultural scene. These are some the most famous places offering classical, ballet and opera in Moscow.

Bolshoi Theatre (BT) C-3, Teatralnaya Pl, 1, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 250 73 17, www.bolshoi.ru. Helikon Opera (HO) A-4, Ul. Novy Arbat 11, bldg. 2, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695 65 84, www.helikon.ru. Kolobov Novaya Opera Theatre (KNOT) C-1, Karetny Ryad 3, bldg. 2, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 694 08 68, www.novayaopera.ru. Masterskaya Petra Fomenko (MPF) Nab. Tarasa Shevchenko 29, MKutuzovskaya, (+7) 499 249 19 21, www.fomenko.theatre.ru Russian Academic Youth Theatre (RAYT) C-3 Teatralnaya pl. 2,MTeatralnaya tel. +7 495 692 00 69 Mossovet Theatre (MST) B-2, Ul. Bolshaya Sadovaya 16, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699 20 35, www.mossoveta.ru Operetta Theatre (OT) C-3, Ul. Bolshaya Dmitrovka 6, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 925 50 50, www. mosoperetta.ru. Pushkin Drama Theatre (PDT) B-3, Tverskoy bul. 23, metro Pushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 694 12 89 www. teatrpushkin.ru Stanislavsky Music Theatre (SMT) C-2, Ul. Bolshaya Dmitrovka 17, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 28 35, www.stanislavskymusic.ru. State Kremlin Palace (SKP) C-4, Ul. Vozdvivzhenka 1, MBiblioteka im. Lenina, tel. (+7) 495 620 79 10, www.kremlin-gkd.ru

Venues Column Hall of House of the Unions Bolshoi Theatre Helikon Opera International House of Music Chamber Hall International House of Music Svetlanov Hall International House of Music Theatre Hall Kolobov Novaya Opera Theatre State Kremlin Palace Meyerhold Centre Moscow Conservatory Small Hall Masterskaya Petra Fomenko Mocow Philharmonic Chamber Hall Moscow Philharmonic Tchaikovsky Hall Mossovet Theatre Pushkin Drama Theatre Stanislavsky Music Theatre

HU BT HO IHMC IHMS IHMT KNOT SKP MC CSH MPF PCH PTH MST PDT SMT

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While St. Petersburg may claim to be the capital of Russian culture, Moscow may well claim to be its birthplace. Tchaikovsky, Tolstoy, Stanislavsky, Chekhov, Bulgakov and co. They all took their inspiration from this magical and majestic place.

August Events 05.08 Thursday

21:00 Iggy Pop and the Stooges

Milk Moscow, ul. Sergeya Makayeva 9, MUlitsa 1905 goda, tel. (+7) 495 726 0998, www.iggypop.org/. If the face or even the music of Iggy Pop aren’t recognisable, then at least his over muscled torso and stringy hair ought to be. Beloved as Iggy is to punk fans across the world, he shows no signs of slowing down and amending his behaviour, which makes this concert an absolute cracker. His stage antics are legend, his stage persona inspires that weird rock star devotion that only groupies understand. Q ission 1,900 - 24,000Rbl.

05.08 Thursday

21:00 St. Petersburg Ska Jazz Review

16 Tons, ul. Presnenesky val. 6, bldg. 1, MUlitsa 1905 goda, tel. (+7) 495 253 15 50, www.16tons.ru. They say that ‘this band swings as hard as it skanks’ and judging from their faithful following before they went on hiatus to find a new singer, we certainly believe it’s true. Starting out as a spin-off from the St. Petersburg based ska band Spitfire, Ska Jazz Review went on to become a winning band in their own right, and their jumping concerts are massively enjoyable come rain or shine - and we would know as we’ve been following them for years. Now with a new lead vocalist, they are back and touring as hard as ever.

12.08 Thursday

21:00 Apocalyptica

Club B1 Maximum, ul. Ordzhonikidze 11, MLeninsky prospekt, tel. (+7) 495 921 15 57, www.b1club.ru. Long-haired, leather clad heavy metal rockers playing cellos. Only in Finland. Classically trained cellists, Apocalyptica, formed back in 1996 after they were spotted at a concert playing Metallica covers for fun. They were soon recording albums and rocking around Europe with a unique sound that takes inspiration from all forms of metal. It’s a concept that’s currently unrivalled and highly respected by the international rock community.Qission 1,800 - 5,000Rbl.

19.08 Thursday - 22.08 Sunday

Mesto vstrechi - Shirota 54 (Meeting place latitude 54) Ryazan oblast, novoryazanskoe shosse (160km south of Moscow), tel. (+7) 495 781 71 83, topfest.ru. This festival is promoted as one for the ‘grown-ups’, meaning showers, no long queues for toilets (half the guests will stay in bungalows), sushi bars, an Uzbek restaurant, playgroups to dump the kids in and a meditation and yoga area. This is about as posh as festivals come. As for the music, the emphasis is largely on folky Russian bands like Pelageya, Billy’s Band and Turetsky’s choir, jazz and lounge music and the slightly cheesy sounds of ‘Russia’s Jack Johnson’ Uma 2urman. There will also be a dance tent or ‘club area’ pumping out the house tunes, an open air cinema, football and volleyball pitch and a fish-filled lake to escape to. Q Tickets start at 800Rbl for one day’s entrance to the festival. Rental of camping space starts at 800Rbl and bungalows start from 16,000Rbl for a six person bungalow.

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25.08 Wednesday

19:30 U2 (360 tour)

Luzhniki Stadium (LUZ), Luzhnaya nab. 24, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 495 730 73 00, www.u2.com/tour/ index. The most famous thing to have ever come out of Ireland since Guiness and Shamrocks, U2 are one of the super groups of their age, and despi te having done the rounds now for 30 years this is the first time they’ve ever visited Russia. The tickets have been on sale for almost a year and the hype surrounding the event has been unsured, so you will be very lucky to get your hands on a ticket. As ever with U2 their concert reviews have so far been good and they are guaranteed not to disappoint - especially given the chance to actually be able to see them from their 360 degree round stage. British indie band Snow Patrol will be ing.Qission 2,500 - 8,000Rbl.

26.08 Thursday - 29.08 Sunday

Mamakabo

Ethnomir (90km from Moscow on Kievskoe shosse), tel. (+7) 926 812 28 80, www.mamakabo.ru. Mamakabo places itself as the antithesis of the pop saturated festival scene. You may not have heard of many of the people who are on the line-up, but you can be certain that they are all accomplished well-respected musicians in their own rights. Top of the list is Australian guitar god Tommy Emmanuel c.g.p who plays faster than speed of light and is cited as the best acoustic player in the world, didatonic harmonica player Howard Levy who is loved for his versatility, especially in the blues, Cameroonian bass player Etienne Mbappe and jazz-funk infused local legend Sergei Manuk yan. Numerous other vocal groups, jazz, blues and folk musicians and a Beatles tribute band will round out the playbill and the weekend promises to be very child-friendly, and ecologically efficient. For those wanting to stay overnight there is accommodation available in the museum reserve’s hotel, in tents or in real Mongolian yurts.

29.08 Sunday

19:00 The Pogues

Milk Moscow, ul. Sergeya Makayeva 9, MUlitsa 1905 goda, tel. (+7) 495 726 09 98, www.milkclub.ru. The original folk-punk band, the Pogues are almost as famous for their music, particularly the all-time Christmas classic with the late Kirsty MacColl Fairytale of New York, as for their permanently trashed frontman Shane MacGowen. After breaking up for some years, the group recently got back together and have gone on tour to continue promoting Irish/English drinking songs performed in a punk fashion. Incidentally the band’s original name was pogue mahone which means in Irish ‘Kiss my arse’. That’s the spirit! Q ission 1,900Rbl.

August - September 2010

Culture & Events

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National Orchestra Festival 06.09 Monday - 12.09 Sunday

Grand Festival of the Russian National Orchestra B-2, Moscow Philharmonic Tchayikovky Hall (PTH), MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 232 04 00, www. russianarts.org. Taking place for the second time, this festival promises the absolute best in classical music. Led by one of the greatest orchestras in the world, the festival has a repetoire that covers every thing from chamber music and ballet to grand symphonic pieces and operas. Special highlights will include Stravinsky’s Firebird performed by school age dancers and an appearance by Hungarian jazz violinist Roby Lacatos. Sep 06 07 08 09 10 11 12

Time 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00

Event Firebird - Ballet by Stravinsky RNO and Laura Claycomb (USA) Cinderella - opera by Rossini Gala Concert, Conductor Teodor Currentzis (Greece) 19:00 Roby Lacatos Orchestra (Hungary) 19:00 RNO – Wagner, Glier, Berlioz 19:00 Gala concert – Taneyev, Beethoven

Classical Music Sep Time Event 07 19:00 Operetta evening 09 19:00 Rachmaninov - conductor Vladimir Spivakov 13 19:00 Mussorgsky, Rachmaninov 14 19:00 Charity concert - Beethoven, Verdi 14 19:00 Dedication to reunification of - Beethoven, Brahms 15 19:00 Organ evening 15 19:00 Borodin Quartet, Yuri Bashmet 16 19:00 Three ages of classical music 17 19:00 Chamber Ensemble the Moscow Soloists of Yuri Bashmet 19 19:00 Brigite Engerer (piano, ) Borodin, Tchaikovsky 20 19:00 Opera star Ermonela Jaho (soprano, Albania) 21 19:00 Evening of Jazz-guitar 22 19:00 Stars of Gipsy jazz 22 19:00 Sibelius, Tchaikovsky 22 19:00 Dedication to Astor Piazzolla 25 19:00 Lille National Orchestra - Ravel, Stravinskiy 25 19:00 Dedication to Lizst 26 19:00 Dedication to Chopin anniversary 26 19:00 Debussy, Poulenc, Stravinskiy 27 19:00 The Bavaria Orchestra, Kent Nagano (Usa) - Mozart, Strauss 28 19:00 Youth Symphony Orchestra CIS, conductor Vladimir Spivakov 29 19:00 Organ evening 30 19:00 Symphony Orchestra the New Russia, conductor Yuri Bashmet

yescho! = encore! Moscow In Your Pocket

Venue IHMS IHMS PTH PTH SCH IHMS PTH IHMC PTH PTH PTH IHMT IHMS PTH IHMC PTH SCH PTH SCH PTH PTH IHMS PTH

Culture & Events September Events 03.09 Friday

20:00 Tori Amos

Crocus City Hall, MKAD 65Km, MMyakininskaya, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.crocus-hall.com. The original hippy rock chick with oodles of soul, Tori Amos is a talent and a half. Although her career has had its highs and lows over the years, the spectacular singer/songwriter and pianist is still a ionate and live performer her concerts are always highly emotional and intimate affairs. Many more hippy dippy girls with quirky voices and a way with words may have followed in her path, but Amos still remains top of the pack having penned songs for many of her would-be protégés and continuing to be one of the most respected voices in the business. Q ission 1,300 - 12,000Rbl.

04.09 Saturday - 09.09 Thursday

20:00 Moscow Military Tattoo

D-4, Red Square, www.kremlin-military-tattoo.ru. The Moscow military tattoo is one of the biggest displays of military bands and marching styles in the world. With the Kremlin walls and St. Basil’s Cathedral as its backdrop, the Skaya Tower festival will feature more than 1,000 musicians and soldiers from ten different countries, including Russia, , the USA, Turkey and Israel. The show is not only about drums, horns and goose-stepping though, 3-D laser and video effects, special video and light installations, pyrotechnics and tons of fireworks will add even more power to the wonderful display of military might and homegrown musical talent. Q ission 500 - 3,000Rbl.

10.09 Friday

19:00 Roxette

Dvorets Sporta Megasport, Khodinskiy bul. 3, MDinamo, tel. (+7) 495 730 73 00, www.roxette.se. Popularising the short platinum look for women, Swedish duo Roxette are also very well know for their 1980s smash hits It Must Have Been Love and Listen To Your Heart. After Marie got a brain tumour back in the early 2000s the band went on hiatus and only last year got back together to peddle a Greatest Hits album and record some new tunes (most of which unfortunately do not have the staying power of their earlier classics).Qission 2,500 - 10,000Rbl.

13.09 Monday

19:00 Ozzy Osbourne

Dvorets Sporta Megasport, Khodinskiy bul. 3, MDinamo, tel. (+7) 495 730 73 00, www.ozzy.com. The Prince of Darkness and the Godfather of Heavy Metal, Ozzy has seen and done it all from biting the head off a bat live on stage, trying to murder his wife, almost dying in a quadbike crash, starring in his own reality TV show ever and of course selling millions and millions of records. Despite his age and health condition, which is not where it once was after decades of substance abuse, Ozzy still rocks with the best of them and this will be his first concert in Russia promoting his new album Scream. Q ission 2,200 - 10,000Rbl.

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15.09 Wednesday

Ballet Aug 03 04 05 06 07 08 09-10 11 12 13 14-15 16 17 18 19 20

Time 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00

21-22 23 24-25 26-27 28 30 Sep 05 14-15 16

19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 Time 19:00 19:00 19:00

16-19 18 21 22 23-24

19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00

23-24 26 26 28 30 30

19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00

17

20:00 Sting

Event Venue Giselle KNOT Don Quixote KNOT The Sleeping Beauty RAYT Cinderella KNOT Don Quixote RAYT Swan Lake RAYT Swan Lake KNOT The Sleeping Beauty KNOT Romeo and Juliet RAYT Spartak KNOT The Sleeping Beauty RAYT Romeo and Juliet KNOT The Nutcracker RAYT Coppélia KNOT Carmen TV by Kiev modern ballet RAYT Ward No. 6, Underground by Kiev RAYT modern balles The Sleeping Beauty RAYT The Nutcracker RAYT Swan Lake KNOT Swan Lake RAYT Don Quixote KNOT Don Quixote KNOT Event Venue The Nutcracker KB Preljocaj's Ballet BT State Folk Dance Ensemble of PTH Abkhazia the Sharatyn Preljocaj's Ballet BT The Sleeping Beauty KB Esmeralda BT Esmeralda BT Igor Moiseev State Academic PTH Folk Ensemble Swan Lake BT Swan Lake BT Evening of Modern Choreography IHMT The Nutcracker KB Tango with the stars IHMS La Bayadere BT

Russian Folk Show Through - 15.09 Wednesday

Russian National Dance Show Kostroma

Concert Hall of Cosmos Hotel, Prospekt Mira 150, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 234 63 73, nationalrussianshow.ru. More than matryoshkas is the catchcry of the Kostroma Russian cultural dance troupe. This Russian National Dance Show features everything that you can think of when it comes to Russian culture. The general theme of the show is Russia’s long and glorious history, but how it is presented is the real miracle. The troupe consists of more than 50 dancers who wear more than 300 costumes during the course of the performance. All elements of Russian culture are presented in this hi-tech, colourful extravaganza, from the Cossacks to the Soviets and Tsarist opulence to traditional folklore. Q Daily at 19:30, except Thursdays. ission 1,500Rbl.

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Crocus City Hall, MKAD 65Km, MMyakininskaya, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www. crocus-hall.com. ed by the Royal Philharmonic Concert Orchestra, the Symphonicity tour brings Sting’s music into a new light. A few of the old a capella tunes are still there but now Sting’s focus is on big music, dramatic backing and of course his own silky vocals. With all his songs being given completely new arrangements, the new sound is much more mellow and romantic than his Latin inspired tastes of the last few years.

17.09 Friday

Zemfira

Crocus City Hall, MKAD 65Km, MMyakininskaya, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.crocus-hall. com. Described as Elvis, The Sex Pistols and Courtney Love rolled into one, Zemfira is a lot more alternative than other Russian princess type singers. With the Russian press describing her as Kurt Cobain in a dress, the girl has got attitude and album sales in spades. Her refreshingly honest voice and lyrics provide a dose of reality on the music scene. Q ission TBA.

19.09 Sunday

19:00 Dmitri Hvorostovsky

Concert Hall Barvikha Luxury Village, tel. (+7) 499 225 88 80, www.barvikhahotel.com. He’s called the velvet voice and is a superstar of Russian opera. Hvorostovsky has sung on all the world’s stages and even pocketed a Grammy award and has an almost fanatical following in his home country. With his immense physical stature and shock of white hair he always makes a very striking appearance on stage and there are those who have compared his sensual velvety voice to ‘an ocean of glowing teardrops’. This concert is a special part of the opening of the Baravikha holiday village and so ticket prices are sky high and the event is expected to be quite ‘exclusive’. Q ission 10,000 - 25,000Rbl.

20.09 Monday

Placebo

Leningradsky bul. 31, bldg 4, MDinamo, www.arenamoscow.ru. Post-punkers Placebo are often described as a kind of glam version of Nirvana and are well known for their lead singer Brain Molko’s wailing and nasal vocal style and androgynous look. Singing as they do, mostly about drug abuse, depression and failed relationships they have quite an emo following, although their newer songs are noticeably more positive and have garnered them a wider appeal.

August - September 2010

Culture & Events Time 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 Time 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 11:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00

Event The Csárdás Princess The Violet of Montmarte The Merry Widow Mister X Die Fledermaus (The Tick) The Csárdás Princess The Violet of Montmarte Mister X My Fair Lady Die Fledermaus (The Tick) Event Mister X Die Fledermaus (The Tick) Eugene Onegin Il Barbiere di Siviglia The Violet of Montmarte My Fair Lady L'Elisir d'Amore The Csárdás Princess Eugene Onegin The Golden Cockerel The Golden Cockerel Die Fledermaus (The Tick) Boris Godunov Die Fledermaus (The Tick) Boris Godunov Madama Butterfly Nabucco

Flea Market Fair Venue OT OT OT OT OT OT OT OT OT OT Venue OT OT KNOT KNOT OT OT KNOT OT SMT BT BT OT BT KNOT BT SMT KNOT

Circus Kuklacheva Cat Theatre (KCT), Kutuzovsky Pr. 25, M Kutuzovskaya, tel. 499 249 29 07, www. catstheatre.ru People and cats - cat acrobatics with a little bit of ballet in there too (from the people not the cats that is…) *Olimpiada Kota Borisa - 70 cats take part in the show, and famous Cat Boris from Kitty-cat TV ment plays the main role. August 01, 08*, 15* 12:00 02-05, 06*, 09-11, 12-13*, 16:00 23-27 07*, 14*, 14:00 September 04*, 17:00 05*, 12* 12:00 10* 16:00 11* 14:00 ission 200 - 1500Rbl Nikulin Moscow Circus (NMC), Tsvetnoy Boulevard 13, M Tsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. 495 625 89 70, www. circusnikulin.ru Time of the Clowns - Yes, there will be clowns, but there will also be jugglers, acrobats, sealions and tigers per forming some miraculous stunts. August Time 01, 02, 05, 06, 08, 09, 12, 13, 19:00 15, 16, 19, 22, 25, 27, 29, 30 07, 14, 21, 28 14:30, 19:00 September Time 01 10:45, 13:00, 15:15 03, 04, 06 19:00 05 14:30, 19:00 ission 400 - 2500Rbl.

Moscow In Your Pocket

19

23.09 Thursday - 26.09 Sunday

Opera & Operetta Aug 15 16 19 20 22 24 25 27 29 30 Sep 04 05 20 21 21 22 23 23 24 25 25 26 28 28 29 30 30

Culture & Events A-1, Tishinskaya pl.1, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 925 585 72 74, w w w.bloxa.ru. This seasonal flea market is one of the best places to get your antique fix all under one roof. Focusing mostly on pre-revolutionar y and Soviet goods from across Russia, Ukraine and Central Asia, there are also a good number of European antiques in here too, particularly from the turn of the century. If you are looking for clothes and accessories there are more than a few stalls selling vintage pieces and handmade jewellery, while the main focus is on pieces for the home. If you have some patience and a keen eye, it can be a collector’s paradise. Q Entrance 150Rbl.

24.09 Friday

19:00 Massive Attack

Sport palace Megasport, khodinskiy bul. 3, MDinamo, massiveattack.com. Despite forming all the way back in 1988 Massive Attack remain a powerful name in electronic music. Famous tracks such as Teardrop and Unfinished Sympathy still retain the power that they had when they were first released back in the 1990s while their latest album Heligoland released this year, has showed they are still at the top of their game despite not producing a record for seven years.

25.09 Saturday

19:00 Joe Cocker

C-4, State Kremlin Palace, Kremlin, MBiblioteka im. Lenina, tel. (+7) 495 730 73 00, www.cocker.com. Gravelly voiced rock/blues singer Joe Cocker may have been around the block more than a thousand times, but that won’t stop the old timer continuing to pump out the old favourites to his fans. As he said himself ‘God, I’m just a fat bald guy, 60 years old, singing the blues, you know?’ which is fair enough. Expect Cocker to include all of his biggest hits on the list such as With A Little Help From My Friends, Unchain My Heart and Cry Me A River. Q ission 2,500 - 15,000Rbl.

28.09 Tuesday

20:00 DUB FX

Milk Moscow, ul. Sergeya Makayeva 9, MUlitsa 1905 goda, tel. (+7) 495 726 09 98, www.milkclub.ru. DUB FX, a regular guy from Manchester who uses his own voice and a sampler to produce huge multi-layered songs, found his fame performing just right down on the streets of Europe. Soon becoming an internet phenomenon, the down-to-earth genius beatboxer now plays to huge paying audiences with great success. At this concert he will be collaborating and improvising with other MCs Flower Fairy, CAde and saxophonist Mr Woodnote. If you are anything into ragga, beatbox and street sounds this stuff will blow you away. Q ission 990 - 2,200Rbl.

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August - September 2010

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18

20

exhibitions

From Rembrandt and Picasso all the way through to Andy Warhol and David Lynch, the latest and the greatest in the world of art can be found in the Russian capital

Through 14.08 Saturday

Mark Rothko

Garage Centre for Contemporary Culture (GCCC), ul. Obraztsova 19A, MNovoslobodskaya, tel. 495 645 05 20, www. garageccc.com. The first ever solo exhibition of Mark Rothko’s work to appear in Moscow sits hauntingly under dim lights in its own special section in the middle of the huge 8,500 square metre constructivist ex-bus depot. The 20 works that have arrived in Moscow focus on the artist’s later period and include works from some of his most famous projects including the Four Seasons restaurant and one of his last grey and black paintings from the year he committed suicide. Q Open 11:00 - 21:00, Fri - Sun 11:00 - 22:00.

Through 15.08 Sunday

Treasures of the Ottoman Sultans

C/D-4, Moscow Kremlin Museum, Kremlin, MAleksandrovsky sad, tel. 495 697 03 49, www.kreml.ru. Filled with 100 priceless treasures from Istanbul’s Tokapi palace, this exhibition tells the story of the privileged life of Ottoman sultans in the 16th and 17th Centuries. Th e weal th of an cien t manus cripts, ornam en tal turbans, huge emeralds and elaborate costum es wouldn’t b e ou t of place in Aladdin’s cave. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Thu.

Through 15.08 Sunday

Vozvrashenie - German and Scandinavian art of the XV - XVIII Centuries

B-5, Pushkin Fine Arts Museum, Ul. Volkhonka 12, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 697 95 78, www.artsmuseum.ru. Handsome knights and fair maidens feature heavily in the Pushkin museum’s exhibi tion devoted to G erman an d S can dinavian masterpieces of the late middle a ges and earl y Renaissan ce. Belonging to private collectors as well as the museum, many of these valuable paintings are not often shown together. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon.

Don't forget - Museum Ticket Offices (kassi) close one hour before official closing times. E.g closing at 18:00 means by your ticket by 17:00! Moscow In Your Pocket

exhibitions Through 12.09 Sunday

Soviet art photography of the 1960s and 1970s

C-6, Lumier gallery, Red October Chocolate Factory, Bolotnaya nab. 3, bldg. 1, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 228 98 78, www.lumiere.ru. After Kruschchev’s thaw, the 1960s and 1970s became one of the most interesting periods in Soviet photography, as photographers began to focus more on individuals, their lives, wishes and hopes, than simply glorifying the Soviet worker and documenting militar y parades. This beautiful collection containing more than 350 photos, tells the story of another time when things looked as though they were simpler, although as is evident, they were actually far more complex than appearances would have you believe. Quite the blast from Russia’s Soviet past. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.

Through 22.08 Sunday

Alexandra Exter

C-2, Moscow Museum of Modern Art, ul. Petrovka 25, MChekhovskaya, tel. (495) 694 28 90, www. mmoma.ru. This exhibition is one of the most important retrospectives of the year and for those who are fans of early 20th Century Russian avant-garde it’s a must-see. The museum has carefully collected together masses of works from across Alexandra Exter’s career to fill the exhibition with cubist paintings, futurist sculptures, abstract pieces, costume and set designs for the theatre and a book of her beautifully illustrated manuscripts for which she became famous in later life. Q Open 12:00 - 20:00. Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed last Mon of the month.

Through 29.08 Sunday

From Raphael to Goya. Masterpieces from Fine Arts museum of Budapest

B-5, Pushkin Fine Arts Museum, Ul. Volkhonka 12, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 697 95 78, www.artsmuseum.ru. From Raphael to Goya focuses on the obvious - Europe's classical masters. With more than 60 paintings brought together with the help of the Budapest art museum, it is not possible to find so much Tintoretto, Rubens, El Greco and Valacques together in one place in Moscow. The exhibition is seperated into the various schools that it encompases so that viewers can better understand how the German, Dutch, Spanish and Italian schools all influenced each other, yet also kept distinct differences too. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00, Mon Closed, Thu 10:00 - 21:00.

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Through 29.08 Sunday

Sand sculpture festivals

Garage Centre for Contemporary Culture, Ul. Obraztsova 19A, MNovoslobodskaya, tel. (+7) 495 645 05 20, www.garageccc.com. The latest project from the Russian art collective AES+F, is an exciting excursion into the world of luxur y and decadence, wi th a distinct flavour of the absurd and kitsch. The main highlight of the exhibition is the monumental video installation where viewers are completel y thrown into the artist’s fantasy world that is inspired by a luxury hotel. The photo exhibits are equally witty and engrossing with Roman in spire d s c en e s populated by models, socialites, professors and bankers who are waited on by chefs, security guards, maids and masseuses. If you thought Russian art was only all about the seriousness of the Russian soul, think again. Q Open 11:00 - 21:00, Fri - Sun 11:00 - 22:00.

Through 14.10 Thursday

The Feast of Trimalchio, AES+F

21

World Chapmionships of Sand Sculpture

Kolomenskoye Museum Estate, MKolomenskoye, tel. 499 615 27 68, www.mgomz.ru. This year’s annual sand sculpture festival in Kolomenskoe is themed around world cinema with the magnificent sculptures that are made only using sand depicting such classics as Jurassic Park and the little mermaid. There’ll also be a huge kids sand pit so they can also getting involved in building their own masterpieces. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. ission 100-400Rbl.

Through 30.08 Monday

Alexandra Catiere

C-5, Pobeda gallery, Red Oktober Chocolate Factory, Bolotnaya naberezhnaya 3 bldg 4, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (495) 644 03 13, pobedagallery.com. Recently included in a list of New York’s most promicoming photographers, young Belarusian Alexandra Catiere is currently one of the most exciting names in photography in Eastern Europe. Currently living in Paris and working as a fashion and art photographer this exhibition showcases the many highlights of her career over the past 20 years. QOpen 13:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Sun.

Through 29.08 Sunday

The Planet’s Hot Breath - Volcanoes and Glaciers

C-3, Manezh, ul. Mokhovaya, MBiblioteka im. Lenina, tel. (+7) 495 231 33 25, www.mdf.ru. Who can forget the chaos that was caused this spring by that Icelandic volcano with the unpronounceable name? The massive eruption of Eyjafjallajokull was a significant reminder of the power of nature, just like this exhibition. Photographer Leo Granovsky, who works between documental and artistic styles of photography, reveals the earth’s immense power in over forty huge photographs taken in Iceland, Hawaii and Kamchatka.

10.09 Friday - 28.11 Sunday

Roger Ballen

Gallery Photogapher.ru, Winzavod, 4-y Siromyatnichesky per. 1 bldg 6, MChkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 228 11 70, www.gallery.photographer.ru. South Africa based Roger Ballen, first caused furore back in the early 90s with his photographs of South African white poverty. With apartheid gone and controversy more difficult to come by, the New York born Ballen has tended more and more towards surreal and abstract compositions that challenge the viewer’s notions of reality. This exhibition is one such piece. Boarding House leaves little clear idea of the who, where and what, but continues to mesmerise with its otherworldly almost horror movie set ups. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.

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Through 30.09 Thursday

Holy Russia sand sculpture exhibition

Cathedral of Christ the Saviour, ul. Volkhonka 15, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 227 10 43, www. artconcern.ru. In the shadow of the immense Cathedral of Christ the Saviour, one thousand tonnes of sand has been sculpted into a 23 metre long, and 7 metre high diorama of the history of Russia. Battle scenes of old Rus and the Tatar yoke have been vividly rendered, right down to the windswept hair and blazing eyes by a team of sculptors from across Russia, Ukraine, Portugal, Spain, Canada and the USA.

17.09 Friday - 10.01 Monday

Art of Rene Lalique

C-4, Assumption Belfry of Kremlin, MAlexandr ovsky Sad, tel. (+7) 495 695 37 76, w w w.kreml.ru. Recognised as one of the greatest designers and artists working in the ar t nouveau and art deco periods, the name Lalique is synonymous with beauty, creativity and quality. Famous for his exquisi te j ewell er y, Ren e Lalique was also an outstanding glass maker and designed the glass interiors for a series of famous masterpiece projects such as the SS Normandie. This massive exhibition, is a one of a kind that collects together over 200 of his wonderful creations from the collections of museums from across the world including the Metropolitan Museum of Art and the State Hermitage Museum. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Thu.

August - September 2010

22

hotels

hotels

We‘ve selected a range of accommodation options from some of the top end wallet-busters down to the frugal and friendly options. Prices include VAT (18%) and breakfast unless otherwise indicated.

New Lotte Hotel Moscow

Cream of the Crop

2, M Smolenskaya, tel. +7 495 745 1000, www.lottehotel.ru This sparkling new hotel from th e Korean Lot te groups is a valuable addition to Moscow’s cluster of 5 star hotels. Purpose buil t over th e last few years, the place shines with attention to detail and glamorous design, from the huge blown glass chandelier that crosses three floors through the lobby, to the spacious rooms (some of the biggest in Moscow) and excellent dining options. As it is an Asian hotel, the service levels are quite simply in a class of their own. At the time of going to press rack rates were still changeable, check their website for up-to-date details.

Baltschug Kempinski D-5, Ul. Baltschug 1, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 287 20 00, www.kempinskimoscow.ru. Without actually being the President, it would be hard to live closer to the Kremlin than this. Moscow’s first five star hotel is just across the river and has a stunning view of the Kremlin. The lobby is home to more business men than tourists. Rooms bear the mark of royalty and some suites literally have been designed by minor of the British royal family. Suites also have the most sensational bathrooms, sure to one day grace the pages of design magazines. Brunch is served on weekends and in-house dining options include the well-regarded restaurant Baltchug and Japanese restaurant Shogun. Q230 rooms (40 suites 43,000 - 470,000Rbl, 190 single/ double 32,000 - 38,000Rbl). Breakfast (1,100-1,800Rbl). VAT not included. Visa , registration free of charge. POTJHAR6FLGKDCW hhhhh

Lotte Hotel Moscow Novinsky bul. 8, bldg

Hilton Moscow Leningradskaya F-1, Ul. Kalanchevskaya 21/40, MKrasniye Vorota, tel. (+7) 495 627 55 50, www.moscow.hilton.com. Pre-Hilton, the Leningradskaya was the city’s first hotel. The newly renovated, 273-room palatial hotel is a winning marriage of heritage and modern elegance. Rooms, as one might expect, are of an exceptional standard and have all the elegant trimmings. Soft furnishings and understated glamour abound. Highlights include majestic skyline views, a six-story long brass chandelier (listed in the Guinness Book of World Records) and a stately lobby. Q273 rooms (239 doubles 12,000 - 17,000Rbl, 34 suites 20,000 - 72,000Rbl). VAT and breakfast not included (1,260Rbl). Visa and registration free of charge. PHA6UFLGKDCW hhhhh

Sheraton Palace A-1, Ul. 1st Tverskaya-Yamskaya 19, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 931 97 00, sheratonpalace.ru. This summer the Sheraton Palace traded its classic look for a modern, cosmopolitan chic, successfully reenergizing its downstairs Piano Bar & Lobby area. All rooms house the Sheraton’s trademark Sweet Sleeper Beds, known for their massive width and undeniable comfort. The top “club floor” has great perks for its guests, including spacious executive rooms equipped with a printer and fax machine; a separate reception desk; private dining and bar areas; and its own business center. Q212 rooms (36 suites 17,000 75,000Rbl, 150 single/double 11,500 - 19,000Rbl). Breakfast only included for club floor guests. PJAFGKXW hhhhh

Marriott Grand Hotel B-2, Ul. Tverskaya 26, MMaya-

Swissotel Krasnye Holmy F-7, Kosmodamianskaya nab. 52, bld.6, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 787 98 00, www. swissotel.com/moscow. Bright and clean as a pin, nothing in this efficient and contemporary hotel is extraneous or out of place. This must be the secret to how they manage to include such enormous bathrooms. Whole football teams could shower with comfort in those on the top floors. The hotel is a circular tower structure, which means that each room is unique (and has a unique view) depending on its position. Our favourites are the rooms which include spectacular views over the city directly from the comfort of your bath tub. Spa and fitness facilities and executive lounges number among the additional advantages to be found. Q233 rooms (206 singles 26,950 - 36,950Rbl, 206 doubles 28,700 - 38,700Rbl, 26 suites 40,450 - 110,000Rbl, 1 apartments 215,000Rbl). Extra bed 1,500Rbl. VAT and breakfast (1,600Rbl) not included. Visa 3,500Rbl, registration free of charge. PHAUFLGKDCW hhhhh

kovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 00 00, www.marriott.com/ mowgr. Situated conveniently on Tverskaya street, the Marriott Grand boasts luxurious rooms with modern stylings, fitness and health facilities, and European restaurants. The Grand is co-managed with two other Marriott hotels in Moscow, which ensures flexible booking. The rooms themselves offer generous amount of space and freshness. Twin rooms come with two king-size beds that you could swim in. Natural light shines abundantly in their conference rooms and trademark foyer atrium. Q382 rooms (11 suites 36,000 - 100,000Rbl, 371 single/double 21,000Rbl). Breakfast (1,240Rbl) and VAT not included. Visa and registration free of charge. PHAR6UFLGKDCW hhhhh

Renaissance Moscow Monarch Centre Hotel Leningradskiy pr. 31a, bldg 1, MDinamo, tel. (+7) 495 995 00 09, www.renaissancemonarchmoscow.com. This massive hotel has been built straight from the begining with the aim of suceeding where other hotels have failed. All the public spaces from the lobby to the pre-conference areas are noticeably huge and well thought out giving plenty of space for rest, relaxation and those all important informal business meetings. Up in the rooms you could sail a boat on those beds and the executive floor is really worth the extra money for the outstanding views, vertiginous roof terrace and superb complimentary extras. Down in the basement the popular fitness centre also has dozens of machines and a large pool area. Q366 rooms (198 singles 24,000 - 27,000Rbl, 69 doubles 24,000 - 27,000Rbl, 99 suites 34,000 - 125,000Rbl). VAT and breakfast (1,100Rbl) not included. Visa and registration free of charge. PHA6UIFLGKDCW hhhhh Moscow In Your Pocket

Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

W Wi-Fi connection

H Conference facilities

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet

L Guarded parking

F Fitness centre

G Non-smoking rooms

K Restaurant

M Nearest metro station

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

moscow.inyourpocket.com

The Ritz-Carlton C-3, Ul.Tverskaya 3, MOkhotny

Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 225 88 88, www.ritzcarlton.com. Luscious decor and furnishings abound in this modern palace, completed just under a year ago. The architects and designers paid close attention to detail and endowed sophisticated rooms with luxury utilities and utmost comfort. The service here is so complete it borders on aristocratic. Where else would you be able to call upon a bath or technology butler or to recharge your laptop while it was locked away in the room safe? Draw your curtains or switch off the lights using the touch by your bed? The dining facilities vary from the German castle-inspired Caviarterra, to the classicism of Jeroboam and the design elegance of the 02 Lounge. Q334 rooms (23 suites 125,000 - 430,000Rbl, 311 single/double 35,000 - 51,000Rbl). VAT and breakfast (1,700Rbl) not included. Visa and registration free of charge. Extra bed 1,500Rbl. PJHA6UFLG� KDCW hhhhh

Upmarket Assembleya Nikitskaya C-4, Ul. Bolshaya Nikitskaya

12/2, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 933 50 01, www. assambleya-hotels.ru. This is a lovely boutique hotel with flawless window dressing. Luxurious bed covers that hold just enough weight so you can sleep soundly and safely. The all round comfort supplied here is guaranteed to soothe any tired bones. Single rooms deserve a special mention. The bed is large enough for two with enough space to do some yoga as well. Bathrooms are economically designed, with heated floors and robes. The top floor boasts attic rooms with pretty gauze drapes. Q29 rooms (7 singles 7,900 8,900Rbl, 15 doubles 9,900 - 10,900Rbl, 4 suites 12,430 - 13,700Rbl, 3 apartments 15,000 - 16,500Rbl). Extra bed 1,900Rbl. Breakfast not included (500Rbl). Visa 1,600Rbl. Registration free of charge. PHAUIL� GKW hhhh

Courtyard by Marriott B-3, Voznesensky per. 7,

MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 981 33 00, www.courtyardmoscow.com. The hotel is tucked away on a quiet, romantic side street at a 10-minute walk from the Kremlin and it gives you the best of both worlds: the comfort of the hotel’s peace and quiet, and the excitement of the accessible, fast-paced downtown. The inside courtyard’s massive glass roof radiates positive energy into the lobby. All guest rooms are also very well lit and feature ultra comfy beds and pillows. If you want a great view, ask for a room on one of the top floors facing out toward the Kremlin or St. Andrew’s Church. If you like to people watch, you’ll love a room with a courtyard view. Q218 rooms (218 single/double 16,500 21,000Rbl). Breakfast (1,050Rbl) and VAT not included. Visa free (3,000Rbl cancellation fee), registration free. PTJHAFLGKW

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Days Hotel Moscow at Mandarin Moscow Residences Ul. Olhovskaya 23, MKomsomolskaya,

tel. +7 (495) 772 77 21, w w w.hotelmandarin.ru. The Mandarin Residences is not to be confused with the famous Mandarin Oriental group, this is an independent Russian hotel of the four star class. The design is based around first of all Mandarin fruits and second of all a kind of plushy classicism which manifests itself in the marble bathrooms and rococo settees. The rooms all have different layouts depending where in the building you are (some of the rooms are better suited to their odd shapes than others), bu t are all uni ted by their slightly queasy golden yellow colour schemes. The red and black restaurant however is a stand out place for lingering. Q 103 rooms (103 singles 6,350 - 13,550Rbl, 69 doubles 8,200 - 14,050Rbl). E xtra bed 2,000Rbl. Visa 1,200Rbl, registration free. PHAFL� GKW hhhh

Holiday Inn Sushchevsky Ul. Sushchevsky Val

74, MRizhskaya, tel. (+7) 495 225 82 82, www. holidayinn.com. Like the other hotels belonging to this international brand, the Holiday Inn Sushchevsk y has high standards, enjoys close proximity to the metro and accommodates guests in attractive and comfor table rooms. A refreshing floral theme runs throughout, but most noticeably in snazz y photo murals and the hotel’s restaurant “Fleur.” E xecu tive rooms boast additional comforts: robes, ironing boards and souped-up amenities and extra decorations. Access to the execu ti ve loun ge (anoth er Holiday Inn standard) for business meetings and/or breakfast is also included in these rooms. Q 312 rooms (16 suites 30,720Rbl, 296 single/ double 16,000Rbl). Breakfast (890Rbl) and VAT (18%) not included. Visa and registratiojn free of charge. PHA6UFLGKW hhhh

Katerina City F-7, Shluzovaya nab. 6/1, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 795 24 44, www.katerinahotels.com. One of the first business/conference hotels aimed at the foreign market, the Katerina hotel may have a more simple look than newer arrivals to the scene, but it makes up for everything with its first class conference organisation. Things feel relaxed and as if they are running like clock work here, and that’s not just because your boss booked himself into one of the rooms with an ensuite sauna. Nice extras include a good quality buffet breakfast and free mini-bars (with a limited stock). Small rooms are just that, while medium rooms feel noticeably more spacious. They also have a brand new hotel with 260 rooms in the leafy south of the city (Katerina Park, Kirovogradskaya ul. 11, metro Prazhskaya, tel. (+7) 495 933 04 04). Q120 rooms (66 singles 12,600Rbl, 44 doubles 15,800Rbl, 10 suites 18,900Rbl). Extra bed 4,000Rbl. Visa and registration for free. PHAUIFLGKDW hhhhh

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23

hotels

hotels Novotel Moscow Centre Ul. Novoslobodskaya 23,

Eat with the Stars Mushrooms at the Marriott Through August the Flat Iron Bar and Roadhouse in the Courtyard by Marriott Hotel celebrates the arrival of the mushroom season with a special menu based around chanterelles, probably the world’s most famous and best loved wild mushroom. Chanterelles will be finding themselves in all areas of the menu from cold starters to chanterelle cream soup with garlic croutons and chanterelle risotto with tarragon. In September apple season begins and all kind of sweet and savoury apple dishes will be filling out the new seasonal menu. Baltschug summer terrace The Hotel Baltschug Kempinski’s new summer terrace Kranzler seems to have its finger well on the pulse of the summer diner. Top of their new menu is a fresh approach to serving wine, with the wine list now including an incredible 68 different wines available by the glass, rather than only by the bottle. Accompanying the wine are signature dishes like the lobster bisque with Armenian brandy, Black Sea pot-au-feu with red onion and Russian classics like blini with caviar, piroshki (pies) and smoked sturgeon. O2 goes to New York The Ritz Carlton Hotel’s famous roof terrace with a view to die for has gone for a Big Apple theme this year, both in of decor and menu. The sun loungers are still out there, but now you can sit back and relax with an Americana inspired menu that includes US Prime T-bone steaks, big burgers and cobb salad. On the drinks side the Manhattan of course takes pride of place alongside other creations like the vanilla vodka based New York Cheesecake cocktail. Marriott Royal Aurora Cafe Culture The Marriott Royal Aurora is making great use of its location on the elegant pedestrianised Stoleshniki pereulok again this year with its Vicolo terrace. Building on last year’s success the cafe’s area has been extended to provide space for eighty guests, while the menu is aiming to please everyone. Breakfasts, light lunches, snacks and casual dinners are all available and the menu includes elements of Indonesian, Chinese, British, Japanese and Tex-mex cuisines as well as the popular kebab platter and prime rib eye steak. Mojitos, Tom Collins, daiquiris and martinis plump out the cocktail menu, while those who are off the alcohol can enjoy their excellent homemade lemonades.

Moscow In Your Pocket

MMendeleevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 780 40 00, www. novotelmoscow.ru. The friendly and professional Novotel, decked out in trademark blue and orange, is committed to accommodating both business clientele and vacationers. They have eight conference rooms including a popular hall with a panoramic view on the top floor of the hotel’s circular tower. Standard rooms are spacious and executive rooms even more so and they are all equipped with free high-speed internet so business may always be at the top of your agenda. Up to two children (under 16) can stay free of charge in their parent’s room. The hotel is a 30-second walk to the metro station, which is 1 stop from the Sheremetyevo-aeroexpress train terminus. Q 255 rooms (157 singles 10,000 - 25,000Rbl, 42 doubles 10,000 - 26,200Rbl, 56 suites 12,400 - 40,200Rbl). VAT not included. Visa 3,000Rbl (refundable deposit) and registration free of charge. PTHA6UF� GKW hhhh

Mid-range Ibis Paveletskaya Ul. Shchipok 22, bld.1, MPavelets-

kaya, tel. 661 85 00, www.ibishotel.com. Budget hotels like this are few and far between in Moscow. A completely new building, with brand new rooms and facilities just ten minutes from the train station and a short distance from the very heart of Moscow. Those concerned abut their carbon footprint as well as their wallets are welcomed with open arms as are disabled travellers. Rooms are bright and functional and the ones facing North are particularly large. With the appearance and service attitude of an upmarket hotel, this is a great budget option. Q147 rooms (147 single/ double 5,000Rbl). Extra bed (900Rbl). Breakfast (600Rbl) and VAT not included. Registration and visa free (3,000Rbl cancellation fee). PA6UILGKW hhhh

Izmailovo Gamma Delta Izmailovskoye shosse 71,

build. 4 GD, MPartizanskaya, tel. (+7) 495 737 70 70, www.izmailovo.ru. The Izmailovo hotel complex was specially built for the 1980 Moscow Olympics and the four buildings together make it the largest in Europe. The largest building, Gamma Delta, faces on to Moscow’s biggest park Izmailova and is so rammed full of facilities you would hardly ever need to leave the place! There are 6 restaurants, a huge sauna complex, bowling alleys, a giant fitness centre, beauty salons, shops, tailors... All rooms offer good value - even the standard rooms do not feel as stuffy as you would expect whilst the business deluxe is very high-tech and surprisingly spacious. Q1971 rooms (131 singles 2,900 - 4,500Rbl, 28 suites 5,000 - 7,500Rbl, 1812 double 3,000 - 4,700Rbl). Breakfast (400Rbl) not included. Registration free of charge. PHAUFL� GKDCW hhh

Maxima Panorama Ul. Masterkova 4, MAvtozavodskaya, tel. (+7) 495 788 72 72, www.maximahotels. com. This freshly refurbished hotel should prove popular with travellers on a budget who are looking for an upscale three star. The rooms, which feature plasma TVs, shiny new bathrooms and large beds look on a par with much more expensive hotels and the location couldn’t be nearer to the metro without actually being in the tunnel. Dining facilities are not much to brag about but that panorama? The Moscow river, skyscrapers and those glorious golden domes are visible from all sides. Q123 rooms (6 singles 2,800 - 4,500Rbl, 117 doubles 5,060 - 6,750Rbl). Extra bed 600Rbl. Visa 1,000Rbl and registration free of charge. PHALGKW hhh moscow.inyourpocket.com

Sputnik Leninsky pr. 38, MLeninsky Prospect, tel. (+7) 495 930 22 87, www.hotelsputnik.ru. This Soviet princess has moved with the times and put some new jewels in her Russian tiara. There’s a lively basement bar and an Indian restaurant on the 16th floor. Rooms vary. They all have standard amenities and are wholesomely decorated. While the singles are apt to recall one’s student days when one lived in a shoebox, they are accordingly inexpensive. The pleasant décor in lux suites will make you feel at home without making you feel like you’re staying in someone elses. Q379 rooms (171 singles 4,400Rbl, 183 doubles 4,960Rbl, 24 suites 6,400 - 8,040Rbl). Breakfast (370Rbl) and VAT not included. Extra bed 50% of the room’s price. Registration free of charge. THA6LKW hhh

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Hostels Buddy Bear Hostel Smolenskiy bulvar 15, flat 13, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 499 241 06 16, www.bear-hostels. com. This really is one for those on very tight budgets who don’t mind the idea of very high-capacity and full dorm rooms and late night drinking sessions with your new Russian buddies in the common room. They have a sauna and jacuzzi that can be hired out for 500Rbl per hour - although be aware that it also has one of the hostel’s only two toilets attached to it. Yes, that’s right, two toilets for 35 people - now there’s something to make you think twice about that late night drinking session… Enter through the arch, first door on the right, press 13 and head to the fifth floor. Q4 rooms (36 dorm bed 550 - 850Rbl). Extra bed 500Rbl. Breakfast (100Rbl) not included. Visa 30USD, registration 750Rbl. PAILGKDW Chocolate Hostel B-2, Degtyarnyy per. 15, bld. 1, apartment 4, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 971 20 46, www.chocohostel.com. Travellers seeking a homely, family atmosphere with a cool edge could do no better than coming here. 22 beds are spread through a spacious and airy two level flat. Modern bathrooms and an open plan kitchen complete the impression that care has put into the decoration, while the cup of fresh homemade hot chocolate on arrival should convince you that they care a lot about their guests too.Q5 rooms (1 triples 2,900Rbl, 1 quads 3,400Rbl, dorm bed 700 - 750Rbl, 1 twin 2,200Rbl). Extra bed 500Rbl. Registration 500Rbl. JAGW Godzillas C-2, Bolshoy Karetny per. 6, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 699 42 23, www.godzillashostel.com. Not only is it large and lively, but Godzillas also offers a host of bonus features: original parquet floors, three kitchens, satellite tv in the common room and a washing machine. Dorm beds are in relatively spacious rooms. The immediate area is a little lacking in ready tourist attractions but the hostel is actually very well located, within a short walking distance to the centre. Apart from dorm facilities, they also have ten single rooms available. Registration services also provided. Q22 rooms (1 triples 93US$, 65 dorm bed 16 - 28US$, 11 single/double 70US$). Visa 25-40USD, registration 600Rbl. Payment is in Rubles with the price based on the exchange rates of the day you arrive. INGW hh Trans-Siberian Hostel F-3, Barashevsky per. 12, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495 916 20 30, www.tshostel. com. Located in a quiet yet central location, this hostel is a fine choice for those looking for a relaxation. The management’s cheery attitude immediately comes across in the entryway where the names of Russian cities are painted. The hostel features a communal kitchen, two doubles, a male, female and one eight-bed dorm. As the name suggests, they can help with planning and advice for your trans-siberian trip. Q5 rooms (2 doubles 2,200Rbl, 1 triples 2,800Rbl, 4 bed dorm 700Rbl, 8 bed dorm 625Rbl). Visa 30USD, registration 500Rbl. moscow.inyourpocket.com

Serviced Apartments Four Squares Real Estate C-2, Ul. Bolshaya Dmitrovka 32, bldg. 7, 3rd floor, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 55 72, www.foursquares.ru. Four Squares is one of Moscow’s well-known leaders in serviced apartment rental. To cater to both business and leisure guests, the company’s apartments vary in price, room number, style and location. Four Squares carefully selects and monitors the quality of all the properties. Their online apartment search engine is easy to use and very helpful for selection; all apartments are presented with pictures and a detailed description of amenities and handy facts such as walking distance to the metro and location highlights. All apartments include fully-serviced kitchens, weekly maid service, free high speed internet, free satellite TV with foreign-language channels, and flexible check-in/check-out times. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Prices range between 4,000-7,500Rbl per night. Visa 50€, registration 35€. PAGW Like Home A-6, Zubovskiy blvd. 21-23, off. 8, MPark

Kultury, tel. (+7) 495 223 34 52, www.likehome. ru. Like Home has over 100 luxury serviced apartments in the city centre and is a good option for those seeking more independence and privacy than a hotel can offer. All apartments have been completely renovated by western standards. Like Home also offers visa and airport and train station transfer services. Apartments are serviced and equipped with modern amenities, towels and linens, cleaning service and fast internet. Their website showcases each place comprehensively so you know what you’re paying for. QOpen 24 hour.147 rooms (147 apartments 3,720 6,250Rbl). Minimum two night stay. Registration 1,200Rbl. Visa 35USD. PAGW

August - September 2010

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Restaurants

Restaurants Grabli D-5, Ul. Pyatnizkaya 27, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 545 08 30, www.grably.ru. Open space, natural light and hanging plants abound in this little Russian garden of eden, which easily puts you in a chipper mood. Food self-served buffet style, so you can walk around and choose what you want for yourself. From the left of the entrance, you will the salads and juices. The hot meals and breakfast section are towards the back. The food is wholesome, freshly prepared and ought to still be hot by the time you sit down,so long as the queue to pay at the end isn’t too long. Q Open 10:00 - 23:00. (150Rbl). PJNGXS

Lucien Ul. Gilyarovskogo 65, bldg 1, MProspekt Mira,

Within the same Moscow city block you can find both good and bad service,   five-star fine dining  and hot dog snack vans. Muscovites love going out, so most restaurants tend to fill up quickly. To be sure of getting a table, make sure to book in advance. Tip for good service only - around ten percent is considered fair. Prices listed in brackets indicate the average price of a main course.

Russian 1-2-3 Cafe B-3, Pushkinskaya pl. 5, MPushkinskaya,

tel. (+7) 495 650 70 77, 1-2-3cafe.rosinter.ru. Basic cafe chain fare serving up standard Russian classics like blini, borsch and mayonaise salads as well as coffees and teas for those on the go. The 1-2-3 idea comes from the option to upgrade your main with the addition of a garnish and then a drink for a fixed price. Q Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 06:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PTASW

Bochonok E-3, Ul. Myasnitskaya 24, bld 3, MChistye

Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 625 03 28. This romantic cellar restaurant sends you back to medieval times, where lords gnawed on drumsticks as big as two fists and drank beer straight from the barrel. Russian soups, stews and shasliki (shish kebabs) are prepared and grilled on an open fire. The only thing non-Russian about Bochonok is the friendly service and the beer, which is mostly imported. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00. (500Rbl). PALEX

Cafe Margarita B-2, Ul. Malaya Bronnaya 28, MMaya-

kovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699 65 34, www.cafe-margarita. ru. Located right near Patriarch’s Ponds, this restaurant draws its name and theme from Mikhail Bulgakov’s masterpiece “The Master and Margarita.” Trusty Russian culinary classics like blini, borshch and pelmeni are the order of the day. It’s all fresh and homely with nothing overdone. At night there are live performances by local musicians. Given the somewhat cramped floorspace, the cafe makes for a friendly and fun night out. Q Open 13:00 - 24:00. (300Rbl). PJAESW

Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

G Non-smoking areas

L Guarded parking

B Outside seating

M Nearest station

R Internet

Moscow In Your Pocket

Sports transmission

tel. (495) 997 76 65, www.lucienrest.ru. This elegant Russian restaurant is named after Lucien Olivier, the French inventor of the famous Russian Olivier salad. Here the salad comes in its heavenly original version, fresh crayfish or game and juicy vegetables with only a sprinkling of dill…and that’s just the start. The flawless Russian food on offer here, harks back to the pre-Soviet times of rich tastes and luxurious ingredients, while the impeccable service is positively stately. The atmosphere is akin to a posh Victorian parlour filled with crystal glasses, soft antique furnishings and the odd palm, making this a wonderful and romantic foray into historic Russian cuisine. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (800Rbl). PTAEBXSW

Mari Vanna A-3, Spiridonyevskiy per 10a, MPushkinskaya, tel. 495 650 65 00, www.marivanna.ru. Bookings for this popular restaurant are essential as the idea is that you are eating as if at a friend’s house and what kind of guest would turn up unexpected? With a reservation safely made the door to the flat will be unlocked for you and you’ll be invited in to dine on traditional Russian home food such as borsch, pelemeni and pireogi in a cute little place designed to look like an old (but unbroken) Russian flat. The food itself is not mindblowing, just plain good and filling but the service and homely atmosphere, complete with toys and crayons for the kids and the odd family pet trotting around certainly make this a thoroughly enjoyable experience. Q Open 09:00 - 24:00. (600Rbl). PAGS Muu Muu A-4, Ul. Arbat 45/24, bld.1, MSmolenskaya,

tel. (+7) (499) 241 13 64, www.cafemumu.ru. A popular chain of cheerful and cheap cow themed eateries. It is self service here, so be prepared to queue. Dotted around the city it’s a good place to “graze” away an hour or two. The one on Old Arbat street has a fake life size cow outside, presenting you with yet another photo opportunity for everyone back home to laugh at. Q Open 10:00 - 23:00. (200Rbl). PTJAGBXSW

Na Melnitse (At the Mill) E-1, Ul. Sadovaya-S-

kaya 24, MKrasnye Vorota, tel. (+7) 495 625 88 90, www.namelnitse.ru. Let the door swing shut behind you: You’ve stepped into a Russian village scene, with a working water mill, a carp pond and peasants as waiters. The latter wander around offering up their services, but unlike real peasants, these men are dressed in fine tailored attire and haven’t been rolling around in haystacks. The food is strictly Russian: meat, game, fish, stuffed Russian pies, mushroom dishes, scrumptious mors (a bitter berry drink) and mayonnaise salads. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00. (1,000Rbl). PTAULEBXS

Oblomov D-7, 1-y Monyetchikovskiy per 5, MDobrynin-

skaya, tel. (+7) 495 953 68 28, www.restsindikat. com. Named after the fat, lazy gourmant who was the hero of Goncharnov’s novel by the same name, this romantic place is styled like a Russian country house with various sitting rooms with fireplaces, verandas and portrait filled dining halls. The staff also wear traditional dress and greet you in old Russian. The Russian food on offer is beautifully presented and lovingly made and comes in huge portions. We were particularly impressed with the salads which were a step above the usual pickles with mayonaise and the little pies which taste just like babushka makes them. QOpen 12:00 - 05:00. (800Rbl). PTAIES

Snegiri F-3, Ul. Pokrovka 43, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495 544 59 40, www.total-group.ru. Snegiri offers up the traditional Russian deal, with a twist. The twist is not always as successful as you may hope. How about some rice pudding with your steamed Siberian fish? Thought not. But when they stick to the classics like borsch and pelmeni (without cheese baked over it), they are doing quite fine. The atmosphere would be delightful, if they didn’t insist on playing Russian retro music full blast from all sides. Let’s hope it’s all a work in progress. Q (700Rbl). Stolovaya 57 D-4, Gum Department Store, 3rd floor, 3rd

line, Red Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 788 43 43. Russia’s love affair with retro lives on at this inexpensive Sovietstyle cafeteria. In quite a suprising location, meshed between GUM’s designer boutiques, this quaint little nook provides all the classics of Russian cafe dining. Meat cutlets, beef stroganoff and olivier and vinegret salads are among the most popular as is selyodka pod shuboi (pickled herring and beetroot). All are great choices for mayonnaise lovers. The cafe also makes sandwiches. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (250Rbl). PJAGSW

Teremok D-5, Ul. Pyatnitskaya 2/38, bldg 1, MNo-

vokuznetskaya, www.teremok.ru. Worship at the throne of Teremok - the pancake or blini kings. Although it is strictly fast food, the blini are assembled as you order them and there is a wide variety including the Ilya Murometz, a popular concoction of boiled pork, mushrooms and cheese and the email (mushrooms in cream). They also do different porridge dishes, an awesome fish soup (ukha) and have beer on tap. There are also many takeaway Teremok stands dotted around the city and a restaurant branch in okhotny ryad shopping centre opposite the Kremlin. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. (150Rbl).

Yolki Palki D-3, Neglinaya ul. 8/10, MKuznetskiy most, tel. 495 628 55 25, www.elki-palki.ru. Aimed at the tourist market, this slightly cheesy Russian eatery packs in both Russians and foreigners alike. They come here for the good value meals, the staff mincing around in traditional costume and that aromatic smell of shashlik from behind the grill. Sit under the plastic forest canopy (somehow this is oddly appealing), while filling up on an all-you-can-eat plate from the buffet wagons or order something from the menu. Note that items on the menu have noticeably small portions. Has over 50 locations including one at Domeodedevo airport and one on Arbat ul. 16/2, bldg. 3. Q Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. (250Rbl). PTABS

Top five shashliks As it is the height of summer and In Your Pocket currently doesn’t have any vegetarian editors, we’ve been out feasting on meat to bring you what we think are our top five shashliks in Moscow.

Chito-Ra Ul. Kazakova 10, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495

265 78 76. Chito Ra is a basic place filled with locals who are the key to the happy, hearty atmosphere: they don’t even need the menu to order. Shashlik (shish kebabs) come only in pork, or maybe you want it in a lavash wrap. However, when you spend all your time grilling just one kind of meat, it ought to be good. And it is. The pork has been licked by the firey flames and is coated in a crispy fried seasoning. And with three dining rooms, including the non-smoking covered terrace with fairy lights, you will find yourself right at home with the boys from Georgia. The restaurant is located near the Gogol Theatre and just down the road from Club Ikra.Q Open 12:00 - 22:00 (200Rbl). PNGXS

Noah’s Ark (Noev Kovcheg) E-4, Maly Ivanovsky

pereulok 9, MKitai Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 917 07 17, www.noevkovcheg.ru. Inviting and relaxing, after ten years this Ark is still a refuge Noah never envisaged. With an elaborate and traditional wooden interior and subtly lit with warm lighting, the seating is cosy while allowing enjoyment of the space. The menu offers some interesting traditional dishes as well as some exciting twists: try the grilled aubergine mousse!Q Open 12:00 - 24:00. (700Rbl). PTALSW

Shashlik in Izmailovsky park At the entrance to Izmailovsky park (opposite Partizanskaya metro station), MPartizanskaya. As you can see from the immense line snaking its way out the door, the pork shashlik here is arguably the best in the city. Grilled to perfection on coals just out front, these succulent chunks of meat are snatched away by the armful by a faithful public. Meat can get pretty expensive here, with shashlik being charged per 100grams (about one piece), but you’ll regret it if you under order and have to face waiting again. Surroundings are basic to say the least, but who cares when the meat is this good?! Q (350Rbl). Shashlik u Nikitskikh vorot B-4, Kalashniy per. 9, MArbatskaya. A place where Moscow‘s regular working class come to enjoy good cheap food in basic (check out that Soviet style faux wood ling!) and highly atmospheric (if smokey) surroundings. Local cops chow down on kebabs at the standing only tables of the first room, next to the bar where orders have to be placed and collected. This place is very popular in the afterwork hours and it‘s all with good reason, the shashlik is grilled to perfection and the complete lack of pretension is a definite breath of fresh air. No English.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (150Rbl). Suliko D-6, Ul. Bolshaya Polyanka 42/2, bldg. 1,

MPolyanka, tel. (499) 238 28 88, www.suliko. ru. The huge shashlik here are worth the roubles and the same is certainly true of the very authentic tasting cheese bread (khachapuri). The live Georgian singing is an interesting cultural experience if a little loud, but it does cover up the sound of the annoying water feature that is the centre point of a restaurant vaguely designed to resemble a village in Georgia. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (250Rbl). PA

zaftrak = breakfast moscow.inyourpocket.com

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moscow.inyourpocket.com

August - September 2010

28

Restaurants

Restaurants

Russian and European

From Russia... with Food

Cafe Pushkin B-3, Tverskoy bul. 26/5, MTverskaya, tel.

(+7) 495 739 00 33, www.cafe-pushkin.ru. This aristocratic restaurant, located near Pushkin Square in downtown Moscow is a place you won’t forget! Diplomats, bankers and Moscow’s rich and famous now frequent it, but it used to be known as the city’s only upper class restaurant where you could eat European standard food and talk freely without being disturbed by the roaming ears of KGB men. The Russian and French cuisine is mouth watering and served in large portions. On the first floor there is a sophisticated 24-hour café and a restaurant called the Library Room, which has a splendid view of Tverskoy Bulvar. If you want to make a good impression, bring your business partner here. Q Open 24hrs. (1,000Rbl). PTJAEBXSW

Ded Pikhto E-2, Ul. Myasnitskaya 37, MChistye

prudy, tel. (+7) 495 915 83 83, www.ginzaproject. ru. The march of the anti-glamour, homestyle restaurants continues. Old photographs of families, wooden dressers, flowery table clothes, cute tableware and the like make up the interior decoration of this little house. The staff wear jeans and pinafores that your granny would love and hence simply can’t be taken to be mean or frightening. As for the food it’s reasonable in every way, low in grease and should please your wallet as well as your stomach. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. (350Rbl). PTABXSW

Sisters Grimm C-3, Stoleshnikov per. 11, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 628 89 75, www.sgrimm.ru. This restaurant isn’t as childish as the novels it is named after, although with crayons for drawing on the tables and piles of board games, they are getting there. The layout feels like a friend’s cosy cottage in the country with various parlours, living room or a kitchen to choose from. Service is delightful (yes they smile!) and the menu has enough for everyone from light salads to their huge juicy burger. If you’re here in the evening, don’t miss a visit to their neighbour Gogol. Q Open 12:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. (300Rbl). PAEBXSW

Menu Decoder Bread Potatoes Nuts Rice Chicken Fish Meat Pork Liver Russian cuisine Dumplings Caviar Meat patties Pickled Herring Stuffed cabbage Panackes Caucasian Cuisine Cheese Bread Shish Kebab Spicy sauce Bean stew Chicken in cream

Хлеб Картофель Орехи Рис Курица Рыба Мясо Свинина Печень Русская кухня Пельмени Икра Котлеты Селёдка

Khleb Kartofel Orekhy Ris Kuritsa ryba Myaso Svinina Pechen Russkaya kukhnia Pelmeni Ikra Kotlety Selyodka

Голубцы

Golubtsy

Блины Кавказская кухня Хачапури

Blini Kavkaskaya kukhnia Khachapuri

Шашлык Аджика Лобио Сациви

Shashlik Adzhika Lobio Satsivi

Moscow In Your Pocket

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Traditional Russian food is rich and stodgy peasant-fare from the village. If you are wondering what that green grass stuff is, it’s dill (ukrop), the white stuff is almost always mayonnaise. Here are the classics...

Bliny Bliny (pancakes) are an indispensable part of Russia’s culinary tradition. Eaten in huge quantities throughout the year, any Russian restaurant has at least a few varieties on the menu. Bliny are typically served as an entrée with ham (vetchinoy), caviar (ikra), cheese (syr), or as a dessert with vareniye (chunky, sweet fruit preserve), or honey (myod) and tvorog (Russian version of cottage cheese).

Caucasian/Central Asian Art Chaikhona B-2, Tryokhprudniy per 11/13, MPushkinskaya, tel. 495 699 14 06. This cute little place claims to have possibly the best plov (pilau) in Moscow and although we can’t claim to have tried every plov out there, we can say there’s certainly truth in the statement - especially given that there are more than five different kinds to choose from. They also do other good Uzbek dishes like lagman (meat and noodle soup) and Somsa (stuffed breads) and their great selection of eastern teas come served in huge Central Asian pottery. Filled with lamps, beautiful wall hangings and arabesque tiling, the place looks as warm and cosy as the staff and food make you feel. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (400Rbl). PTAESW Dzhon Dzholi B-2, Ul. Tverskaya 20, blgd. 1, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 55 67, www.ginzaproject. ru. Dzhon dzholi is another exponent of that concentrated casualness of the country kitchen that is all the rage in Moscow right now - and this time they even go so far as to install a huge stone oven. The reason you really come here is to eat though, and for anyone new to Georgian food this is a great introduction. Khachapuri and huge shashlik of course top the bill, but they also have other well-formed local delights hidden in there too like mchadi (sweetcorn fritters) and chicken chkmeruli (garlic chicken) which should excite the taste buds. Their huge covered summer terrace, is almost as big as the restaurant itself. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (450Rbl). PABSW Elardgy B-5, Gagarinskiy per. 15a, MKropotkinskaya, tel.

(+7) 495 627 78 97, www.ginzaproject.ru. This sophisticated and elegant concept promises home style Georgian food. Looking through the menu you’ll find some dishes you’ve probably never heard such as chkmemili and cuch-machi plus the usual khacaupuri (cheese bread), shashliks and kebabs. The food is hearty enough without swimming in grease although why the drinks cost almost as much as the meat is baffling. Nevertheless the real reason to come here is to soak up the atmosphere - just like a posh southern country estate, complete with classy covered terraces, a private courtyard with rocking chair and a petting zoo filled with white rabbits and a baby goat, awww! QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (450Rbl). TAEBXSW

Khacha-puri B-3, Bolshoy Gnezdnikovskiy per. 10, MTverskaya, tel. 495 629 66 56, www.hacha.ru. An inexpensive little Georgian café with a minimalist interior that shuns the usual plastic grapes and kitschy music in favour of bright New York loft style surroundings. The khachapuri (cheese bread) after which it is named, is quite OK and in our book any place that will serve you Georgian cheese bread with an egg on top for breakfast will always get a big thumbs up. The shashlik (shish kebabs) comes accompanied by plenty of greens and onions and is washed down nicely with homemade fruit drinks. A good choice if you don’t have time to sit through three hours of kitsch and more substantial traditions elsewhere. Q Open 09:00 - 23:00. Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (200Rbl). PTAEBSW moscow.inyourpocket.com

Soups Khodzha Nasreddin v Khive F-3, Ul. Pokrovka 10, bldg. 2, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 917 04 44, www.nasreddinhiva.ru. Khodzha what? Allow us please to translate it for you - welcome to ‘Nasreddin the Wise in the city of Khiva‘. Khiva is of course a silk road gem and Nasreddin a popular wiseman and humorist from medieval legend. The restaurant is set out as an elaborate remake of the silk road city, complete with minarets, little hideaways behind grand carved doors and birds in cages. Sounds tacky, but actually it is very inviting. The food on offer is an excellent introduction to Central Asian cuisine, from the delicious pies and flamed meat, to the exotic plov (pilau) for which the region is famous. Their eatsern tea selection is also superb and although some dishes take a while to make, they are usually worth the wait. Kids are well catered for with their own playroom. The only thing wrong with this place is the weird noises coming from the hidden bird cages. You do get used to it in the end though. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (500Rbl). PTALEB

American American Bar and Grill A-1, Ul. 1-ya Tverskaya-

Yamskaya 2, bldg. 1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 250 95 25, ambar.rosinter.ru. You know how tourists travelling to America often talk about how big the servings are there? How they had to split a salad between two people? This is like this place. The casual easygoing atmosphere, country music soundtrack and big servings are American dining staples. Here they do American style and Tex-Mex (which is American as well). The interior is mostly wooden but not the waitresses. Also at ul. Zemlyanoy val 59 (metro Taganskaya) and ul. Kirovogradskaya 14 (metro Yuzhnaya). Q Open 24hrs. (650Rbl). PTJALEBXSW

Beverly Hills Diner E-2, Ul. Sretenka 1, MSretensky bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 625 42 21, www.thediner. ru. Another fat slice of americana that runs 24 hours a day powered by American smiles, huge burgers and giant breakfasts. The interior is straight out of the movie Grease complete with a chrome bar, red vinyl seats and impossily cute and friendly Sandra Dee waitresses in their little 1950s outfits. Burgers are two hand, ten napkin affairs and the whole atmosphere, complete with jukebox, is just begging you to start reciting lines from a Tarrantino film. Although let’s face it, this is still not Starlite Diner. Q Open 24hrs. (350Rbl). PTASW moscow.inyourpocket.com

Russians are big on soups especially borshch. Actually borshch is said to come from Ukraine. Borshch is chock full of beetroot and shchi is full of cabbage. Both can be pretty good or the most awful dishwater you ever came across. Solyanka comes with various unknown meat bits chopped up with olives and a slice of lemon while Ukha is water based fish soup. Russians like to dollop a spoonful of sour cream (smetana) into their soups.

Salads Everything here comes with mayonnaise, the national dressing. Olivier salad, the New Year salad, comes with potatoes, pickled cucumbers, carrot and spam ham. Hmmm sounds tasty? How about Selyodka pod shuboy – the winner of the award for the strangest name, ‘Herring under a Fur Coat’ consists of Herring, and then potato and followed by beetroot. Mayonnaise also features in this one too.

Pelmeni / Vareniki Pelmeni is your dinner standby. The student’s favourite are little dumplings stuffed with meat. And very chewy meat it is too. They make a great winter snack and are the staple diet of your average Russian bachelor. Vareniki is the version for vegetarians being filled with potato, cheese or cabbage or even tvorog (that cottage cheese again). The jam and fruit versions are for dessert.

Caucasian cuisine One of the unquestionable pluses of Moscow’s Soviet past is the sprinkling of restaurants serving cuisine from former Soviet republics. Of these the most popular both with locals and visitors is probably Georgian, but there are also Armenian, Uzbek, Azeri, and Kazakh places, as well as generalised “Caucasian” cuisine which appears all over the place. These cuisines provide a dash of spice and colour compared with often stodgy Russian dishes. Although often characterised as quite meat-heavy - a staple of Caucasian cuisine is the fabulous shashliky (kebabs) which appear on every menu - food from this part of the world is also a good option for vegetarian visitors to the city, making use of the vegetables and pulses native to that part of the world. Dishes you will typically find include Georgian khachapuri (cheese-stuffed bread), satsivi (chicken in walnut sauce), khinkali (giant meatfilled dumplings) and lobio (red bean paste with herbs and pomegranate seeds), Uzbek plov (rice with lamb) and lagman (thick noodle and meat soup and Armenian dolma (stuffed grape-leaves).

August - September 2010

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Restaurants

Starlite Diner A-2, Ul. Bolshaya Sadovaya 16, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 02 46, www. starlite.ru. No, the girls couldn’t be in shorter skirts, but no, they are not wearing roller skates. Although if they were, they wouldn’t be out of place. The food is a little underwhelming, but that’s not the reason for coming here. It’s most certainly American and those red booths are real - the only thing Russian here are the electric sockets. You’ll hear more English spoken in this diner than anywhere else in Moscow, which adds to the otherwordly experience. Also at Korovy Val 9a (metro Otyabryska). Q Open 24hrs. (600Rbl). PTABSW T.G.I. Friday’s B-2, Nastasyinsky per. 2 (Tverskaya 18), MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 24 97, www.tgifridays.ru. If you’re looking for a place to relax with a gang of friends, for a place where the wait staff wear striped uniforms, novelty hats and smile often, this place is for you. Not only are the margaritas enormous (two hands please), but this America-devoted beer house is full of life and makes satisfyingly good food. Burgers are sizeable (you also need two hands) and come with seasoned chips, although the beer was nothing to write home about. But since when was America the brewing capital of the world? 12 other locations including ul. Novy Arbat 14 (metro Arbatskaya) and ul. Zemlyanoy val 33 (metro Kurskaya) which has summer terraces. Q Open 11:00 - 01:00. Fri, Sat 11:00 - 06:00. (500Rbl). PTJAXSW

Bakeries Le Pain Quotidien C-3, Kamergersky per. 5/6,

MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 77 42, www.lpq.ru. This Belgian bakery with outlets the world over brings its rustic down-to-earth bread philosophy to Moscow. Long wooden tables, delicious coffee served in bowls, Belgian tartines (open-face sandwiches), salads heaving with greenery and cheese boards are on offer. Unfortunately there are no Belgian prices here, just Moscow ones. Also at Evropeisky Shopping Centre, Pl. Kievskogo Vokzala, 1st and 2nd floor, metro Kievskaya, tel. (+7) 499 229 66 74, ul. Piatnitskaya 6/1, bldg. 1, metro Tretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 91 30, ul. Lesnaya 5, metro Belorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 789 97 07. For delivery call (+7) 495 649 70 50, min order 3,500Rbl. Q 24 hrs. (350Rbl). PJABSW

Volkhonsky Kaiser E-3, Ul. Maroseika 4/2, MKitay

Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 721 14 42, www.wolkonsky.com. Delightful French patisserie cafe with a bright pink interior covered with porcelain plates, cups and saucers that you just want to take home. Mouthwatering sweet treats and savoury bakes. Take away also available as well as bakery counter with fresh loaves. Breakfast in this intimate yet energetic haven is a must. While the Maroseika location has the repose of a drawing room, their outlet near Mayakovskaya (ul. Bolshaya Sadovaya 2/46) is like a bakery free-for-all. Its counter service for starters and then it is like musical stools as to whether or not you can get a spot to sit at the large communal table. Either that or hole up in the window seat with the bright covered cushions (only for those who practise yoga). There is a wonderful irony that you pay over the odds for a cappucino and then need to sit on top of strangers to drink it but somehow you learn to live with it. Also has a branch at ul. Sretenka 27/29 (metro Sukharevskaya) with a summer terrace. Q Open 08:00 - 23:00. Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. Coffee and cake 400Rbl. PJAS

Moscow In Your Pocket

Restaurants Asian

Cafes and Coffee Houses

Belyi Zhuravle A-7, Frunzenskaya nab. 14/1, MPark

Kultury, tel. 495 775 06 56, www.beliy-juravl.ru. Possibly the best Korean food in Moscow served up in huge portions. Plenty of complimentary Korean pickled delights (including kimchi) are provided to tide you over until the main dishes arrive. The soups here are outstanding and can compromise a meal in themselves and if you are with a large group it is well worth asking what kind of large hotpots and barbeques they have for sharing. Unfortunately the lack of English menu can make it difficult to order if you are not familiar with Korean cuisine. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (600Rbl). PALSW

Chi E/D-3, Lyubyanskiy proezd 15/2, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 621 35 52, www.restomix.ru. Democratically priced Asian food and a great terrace. A state of the art wifi system, means that as soon as you place an order at your table the kitchen know about it and can get about firing it up in some hair-raising wok display in the open kitchen. These dishes, particularly the dim sum, really taste close to what they serve in China and arrive piping hot at your table in minutes. Be warned though, no matter how tempting your spring rolls look, wait at least for a minute to save yourself a burnt mouth. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (300Rbl). PTAEBSW Dai Sushi C-3, Kamergerskiy per. 5/7, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 629 10 60, www.daisushi.ru. This cheap and cheerful sushi chain has some of the cheapest Japanese food in town, and for the low price the quality is up there with the other similar chains. Although the noodle dishes are good the portions are small, so if hungry it’s best to bump things up with a soup and perhaps some sushi rolls in either 4 or 8 roll sets. The place is small and service quick, so don’t be afraid if it looks quite full, turn over is fast. In summer their terrace on the street is heaving with people. Also at ul. Zemlyanoy val 7 (metro Kurskaya). QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (300Rbl). Darbars Leninsky pr. 38, Hotel Sputnik (16th floor), MLeninsky prospect, tel. (+7) 495 930 29 25, www. darbar.ru. Superb view with superb food. Sure, Leninsky prospekt is not the most central place in the city, but it’s worth the trek to dine here, if you want a view to die for! Darbars serves traditional southern Indian cuisine. It is tastefully decorated in a minimal style, but we have to add here a special mention to the staff who on a recent visit were unfortuantely beyond slow.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (800Rbl). PTALXSW Druzhba Ul. Novoslobodskaya 4, MNovoslobodskaya, tel. (+7) 499 973 12 34. This place is wildly popular with the local Chinese community (always a good sign) and packed every day. Service is swift (let’s hope that’s because it was a wok and not a microwave…) and friendly. The portions are huge and if there is something specifically Chinese that you want such as a hot pot or spicy egg noodle soups, they can probably whip something up for you. Indeed most of what you get here tastes exciting and authentic - must be all that MSG. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (250Rbl). PNS Maharaja E-3, Ul. Pokrovka 2/1 (entrance from Starosadsky per.), MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 621 98 44, www.maharaja.ru. Genuine Indian hospitality. From the moment you reach the door, you’ll receive service worthy of a Maharaja in this well-established Indian restaurant, which is popular with the local Indian community. The menu is huge and has all the favourites such as Madras, Rogan josh and tikka masala and believe us their curries are the real deal. If you want spice, you’ll get spice - the vindaloo will have even the hardest nuts crying into their naan breads. Worth every penny. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (750Rbl). PTAUXS moscow.inyourpocket.com

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Mama Tao D-6, Ul. Pyatintskaya 56/1, MDobryninskaya, tel. (+7) 495 953 42 49, www.ginzaproject. ru. This is a Chinese restaurant that reflects new Chinese fashion, kitschy gold and red décor with smiling cats is out and bohemian 19th Century paintings and simple furniture is in. The dim sum is very good as are the good value noodle soups and the caramelised fruits are an excellent addition, although some of the other dishes may leave you feeling hungry. The open kitchen means that the place smells delicious, but can also get a bit steamy. Our favourite aspect of Mama Tao though has to be the crazy kung fun tea ceremony - it has to be seen to be believed. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (350Rbl). PTAEBSW Mao Bar and Restaurant C-6, Red October Chocolate

Factory, Bolotnaya nab. 3/4, bldg 2, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 985 991 04 24, restaurantmao.ru. Currently the best place to eat in the very happening Red October factory complex. Ride up in the old industrial lift, or take the stairs if it appears to not be working and set yourself up in the dark interior, or better yet the gargantuan roof terrace. The menu here mixes up plenty of great asian inspired dishes, some of the best of which include the singapore noodles, spring rolls and Mao lamb. By night a bar atmosphere takes over with dozens of Moscow’s pretty young things turning up for drinks and nibbles. QOpen 14:00 - 02:00. (500Rbl). PABSW

Menza C-2, Ul. Bolshaya Dmitrovka 32, MChekhovs-

kaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 32 40, www.menza-lapsha.ru. Come here for good Japanese noodles at rock bottom prices. Order your meal by ticking the boxes on the order forms and then handing them into the waiter. Disco tunes play, and your food arrives in minutes. It doesn’t feel like a fast food t (you don’t get hot towels at McDonald’s for instance) but our meal came in around ten minutes. Warehouse loft location, friendly service and Japanese beer which is light on the fizz and the roubles makes this place even more democratic. Also at ul. Rusakovskaya 22 (metro Sokolniki), tel. 499 269 64 44. Q Open 11:00 - 23:00. Fri, Sat 11:00 - 06:00. (200Rbl). PTJAS

Shanti F-2, Myasnitskiy proezd 2/1, MKrasnye Vorota,

tel. (+7) 495 783 68 68, www.shanti.ru. The unusual music somewhere between trance and whale sound, combined with the Buddha statues, dragon motifs and dark lighting, can make this place feel very much like some kind of odd spa retreat. The menu offers only foodie forms of wellness though. Best described as Asian fusion, they have loads of different spring rolls, imaginative wok dishes as well as soups, sushi and noodle stir fries to name but a few. If you find it a little expensive try the equally excellent, but more relaxed ‘shanti buffet’ next door or come on a weekday for the business lunch.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Thu 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. (450Rbl). PABSW

moscow.inyourpocket.com

Aldebaran D-6, Bol. Tomayevskiy per 4, bldg. 1, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 953 62 68, www.acafe.ru. This elegant upscale cafe is a popular place for business discussions, given that it’s quiet, there are lots of private booths and an impressive (if expensive) menu. Service can be hit and miss but the art nouveau décor, large windows and excellent salads go far towards helping you ignore the fact that the waitresses are just chatting amongst themselves. Aldebaran’s location and tranquil atmosphere also make it a great place to load up on breakfast before taking on the Tretyakov gallery. Q Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 24:00. (600Rbl). PTASW Art Lebedev E-3, ul. Myasnitskaya 22/1, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 624 74 73, store.artlebedev. com. Much larger and sparsely painted than its cosier and more eclectic looking sister establishment at Nikitsky vorota, the real draw of this café is the mouth-watering cakes - everything on display is usually baked fresh that day and you may decide to skip looking at the menu and just choose with your eyes instead. They also have nice smoothies and juice drinks, good vegetarian options and the free dates on the table are a nice bonus. Don’t forget to visit the shop downstairs selling crafty bits and bobs. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (300Rbl). Bosco Cafe D-4, Krasnaya pl. 3 (GUM department store), MPl. Revolutsii, tel. (+7) 495 620 31 82, www.bosco.ru. Just like in those famous Italian squares such as St. Mark’s, you are paying over the odds here, for a café with a one of a kind view across Red Square. The watery coffee and annoying MTV background music only go further to prove that you are paying for the eye candy, not what turns up on your table. Regardless it’s always an experience to show off later about when back home and if you feel like throwing away even more money, head into the designer Russian sports shop Bosco attached. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. A Coffee Mania A-3, Pl. Kudrinskaya, 46/54, Chaikovsky Cultural Center, MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 495 721 83 77, www.coffeemania.ru. Slick, pricey, popular with business people and mum’s with prams who appreciate the upmarket quality and the fact that this coffee house is run with a business like efficiency. The smart waitstaff all wear the black uniform of the informed intellectual worker. Wooden furniture creates the feeling of a well worn cafe while the orange décor takes care of the hip factor. Has 10 other locations including Domodedovo airport and ul. Bolshaya Nikitskaya 13 (metro Arbatskaya). Q Open 24 hrs (200Rbl). PTASW Lyudi Kak Lyudi E-4, Solyansky proezd 4/1, MKitai Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 621 12 01, www.ludikakludi. com. Feeding and watering hole for the inner city groovy set, this is where your local Johnny Depp lookalikes come to imbibe cigarette fumes and caffeine. Desperately small and packed with atmosphere, the staff make you want to come back again and again. Food is served without fanfare just like the counter service. The name is hard to translate and opens up questions about the infamous Russian soul, but is philosophically saying, people are people. Think about that as they make you a fresh juice cocktail. Q Open 8:00 - 23:00, Thu 8:00 - 03:00, Fri 8:00 - 6:00, Sat 11:00 - 6:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (250Rbl). PJNXS August - September 2010

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Restaurants Editor’s Pick: Budvar Dracula’s Nightmare

By Louise Whitworth Despite having been around for years, the Czech restaurant and ‘business club’ Budvar is still probably the most authentic Czech place in Moscow in of food and beer. As regards interior though they have thankfully skipped the gothic beer hall look and gone for a Russian country home vibe instead. Having trekked along the Moscow river in blazing heat for half an hour, finally arriving at Budvar, we were delighted to find that their dacha style summer ‘terrace’ was both shady and well ventilated. Filled with random dacha bric a brac like old pots, bicycles and flower pots, the outside factor is covered by the fact that all the wooden shuttered windows are open, while old fans on the ceiling ensure the air circulates well. Settling in to our whicker couches the obvious starter had to be a good big Czech beer, which unbeknownst to us also came with a large plate of complimentary beer snacks (fried bread, garlic and mustard). This snack plate would have been enough to replace a starter but we had already ordered a salad and some pork fat too. The avocado and salmon salad, was not a great accompaniment to the beer and garlicky snacks, but my colleague pointed out that on a hot sweaty day, it was a good choice and that despite fish and avocado not really being particularly Czech they pulled it off well. My salo (cured pork fat), was exactly what I had hoped for. Neither too greasy, nor too salty it actually was a lot lighter than expected, as the slices were wafer thin and devoid of gristle or meat. Certainly one of the best plates of salo I’ve eaten in a long time. For mains we opted for a pork leg and the sausage pan, both of which dishes we had been warned take a lot of time to prepare. The pork leg was much better than we’ve eaten elsewhere, but still the meat was not the most perfect slab imaginable. My Interior: 9.5 sausages also suffered the same Food: 7 problem. They were rich in Service: 7.5 of spice, and seasoning and I cerAtmosphere: 8 tainly enjoyed my side of cabbage Cost: 2388 Rbl. and yet more garlic, but the meat itself felt it was lacking in that extra tender, juicyness. Already clearly over-watered and over-fed, we decided to skip dessert (since when is the Czech Republic famous for its cakes anyway). Fortunately when the bill finally came, we found that there were more than a few sticks of chewing gum accompanying it, as at the final count our meal had included no less than 6 bulbs of garlic. Take that Dracula!

Budvar, Kotlenicheskaya nab. 33, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 915 15 98, budvar-rest.ru

Restaurants Sushi Rumba C-3, Ul. Tverskaya 7 (second floor),

Jean Jacques Rosseau D-1, Tsvetnoy bulvar 24, bldg. 1, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 608 58 10, www.jan-jak.com. This popular French bistro boasts a successful recipe of high standard French cafe fare. Waitresses in their black waistcoats bustle around the red and black cafe, which is decorated with long mirrors and a million wine bottles in onsite storage. Open 24 hours, they do breakfast, lunch and keep going on into the night. The prices for wine run the whole gamut but start at a reasonablly-priced house red. Also at Nikitsky bul. 12 (metro Arbatskaya) and Verkhnaya Radishevskaya 15/2 (metro Taganskaya). All locations have summer terraces. Q Open 08:00 - 06:00. (360Rbl). PTALEXSW

Beer Restaurants

Kolbasoff Ul. Taganskaya 21, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 995 23 33, kolbasoff.ru. This chain of kolbasi (sausages) won’t let hungry and thirsty people down. Offering eight different kinds of sausage dishes, vegetarian beer lovers would do well to stay away from here. For the rest of the carnivore world, Kolbassof is a merry beer restaurant chain with eight locations around Moscow. There are super big portions for couples or groups of 4. Gulp everything down with the home brewed Kolbassa beer. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (450Rbl). PAEXSW

Pilsener A-1, Ul. 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya 1, MMaya-

kovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 251 20 23, www.total-group. ru/pilsner. If the lengthy queues are anything to go by, you will need to show up early or book to avoid disappointment. The house draft beer is not only affordable but drinkable. Indeed, the arm muscles of the staff must be quite sizable to carry platters heaving with spiced meats and other Czech specialities. Enormous portions of sausages, pigs ears, whole chickens and assorted beef dishes make for satisfied stomachs and wallets. Q Open 12:00 - 01:00. (700Rbl). PJAGXSW

European Correas Ul. Bolshaya Gruzinskaya 32, MKrasnopresnenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 605 91 00, www.correas.ru. Groovy cafe food brimming with freshness and taste, this kind of place really takes you away from Russia and puts you back in somewhere where things are easy relaxed and clean. In the style of a neighbourhood deli, the open kitchen means you can watch everything being prepared. The waiters walk past doing bicep curls with the plates. That’s how casual it is. The leafy salads are so tasty that you will even see business men and burly gents tucking into them. The menu, which changes every Wednesday, is mouth-watering and whatever you can eat in, you can also take away. Q Open 8:00 - 23:00. (600Rbl). PJAGS

Moscow In Your Pocket

French and Swiss

MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 988 08 75. This great concept really deserves some good custom. The service is smooth, the cocktails well-made and for once the sushi menu is pretty exciting. We particularly enjoyed the samba rolls with sweet chilli salsa and were happy to see the ubiquitous ‘Philadelphia roll’ ousted in favour of more imaginative combinations. Those seeking to escape Moscow’s love of cold fish should also be able to find something appetising in the Brazilian grill menu. In the evenings DJs arrive to try to get the dance floor going. With more than ample space, huge windows for people watching and a clever layout, it can be as discreet or wild as you wish. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. (250Rbl). PTAESW

G l a v P i v To r g D - 3 , U l . B o l s h a y a Ly u b a n k a 5 , MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 624 19 96, www. glavpivtorg.ru. This restaurant, located not far from the former KGB headquarters, Lyubanka, cannot fail to impress, and not only because of the bank-style interior with green lamps and the possibility to eat some long forgotten Soviet-style snacks with your beer. Rumour has it that in this building, former part of the Ministry for Foreign Affairs, the Molotov-Ribbentrop pact was signed. If this is of no interest to you, there is still lots to offer, with good food, and of course good local brews. In the evenings there is live music and dancing. For more privacy, head upstairs. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00. (500Rbl). PAEBSW

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Syrnaya Dyrka C-2, Ul. Bolshaya Dmitrovka 32, bldg 4,

Ogni E-1, Malaya Sukharevskaya pl. 8/1, MSukharevs-

kaya, tel. (+7) 495 907 12 22, www.ogny.net. Ogni gives the impression at times of both a bar, café and restaurant, spread out as it is into different areas of varying formality. They serve up a great selection of European classics such as carbonara or stroganoff and with a simple approach and masterful hand everything the chef dishes up will no doubt be swiftly polished off. Special mention should go to the staff who are by turns flirty, friendly and thoroughly efficient. A good place for some glamour on a budget. Q Open 24 hours. (400Rbl).

Prostye Vyeshy B-3, Bolshaya Nikitskaya 14/2, bldg 7, MOkhotnyy Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 629 34 94. Prosty vyeshy - simple things - is the motto by which this great little wine bar runs. The low vaulted brick walls are painted white and only the odd bottle of wine on display here and there provides any kind of decoration. The excellent food - including fantastic sandwiches and pizzas arrive on wooden slabs covered in luscious fresh greenery. If you find all this simple atmosphere too dull ask for a pen and get scribbling on the paper table cloths - you may find your poetry covering the walls some day! QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 02:00. (360Rbl). PAXSW Scandinavia B-2, Ul. Tverskaya 19 (enter from Mal. Palashevsky per. 7), MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 56 30, www.scandinavia.ru. An icon amongst Moscow’s expat scene, Scandinavia has been providing smiley service for over ten years now. This restaurant offers a simple menu of Swedish goodies such as gravadlax, baltic herring and meatballs. Not everything is from the north, as their bar menu also has a hefty and popular burger and in the summer there's a barbeque in the garden. The central location and calm international atmosphere means there are more than a few suits and ties dropping in after work. Q Open 12:00 24:00. (1,000Rbl). PJAGBXSW

Fish and Seafood Filimonova and Yankel Fish House B-2, Ul. Tverskaya

23, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 223 07 07, www.fishhouse.ru. Splendid everything. From the welcome, to the service, from the selection of fresh fish to the decor and choice of music. Just watch the waiters skillfully debone the fish for you. The divine tasting fish is the star here. No special sauces or other gimmicks. The menu changes daily and boasts several specials. What’s more, the fish and seafood are flown in. During the summer months their terrace out the back is a particularly nice place to break away from the noise of Tverskaya. Also at ul. Zemlyanoy val 9 (metro Kurskaya). Q Open 12:00 - 24:00. (690Rbl). PTJABSW

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MChekhovskaya, tel. (495) 650 10 07, www.sdyrka. ru. Tired of bland Russian cheese? Then come and pray at the throne of the Cheese Hole, where literally everything on the menu comes with some kind of flavoursome French or Swiss cheese. The small list of starters and mains are all well executed but the real highlight of the place is the fondue for two. Upstairs is a large cute French conservatory area for smokers, while downstairs non-smokers can enjoy cosy cubby holes and soft sofas - and the very distinct stench of cheese. Also at Pokrovskiy bulv. 6/20. QOpen 12:00 24:00. (500Rbl). PTAXS

International Balkon Lotte Plaza 7th floor, Novinsky bulvar 8, MSmo-

lenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 788 82 98, www.ginzaproject. ru. Stuck right up on the top of the Lotte Plaza, the view from Balkon is really something - no it's not the domes of the Kremlin that you'll be gazing upon, instead you can see the future of Moscow in all its glory, the Bladerunner-esque skyscrapers of Moscow City.The menu comes in two parts, Asian and Italian. The Italian dishes are worth plumping for, we especially enjoyed the farfalla with tuna, while the Asian dishes are smaller portioned and correspondingly cheaper. The atmosphere is an upscale country retreat, complete with plush sofas, birds in cages and discretely dressed business types.

Radio City Bar & Kitchen A-2, Ul. Bolshaya Sadovaya 5b

(Peking Hotel), MMayakovskaya, tel. 495 363 42 23, www. radiocitybar.ru. This massive restaurant/bar/club and concert hall is the first example of a venue that has been successfully transformed from casino into a popular entertainment space after gambling got outlawed last year. Although strangely enough there are still some flashing machines in the back that look suspiciously like slots…Regardless the restaurant is fun in its own Vegas-way and can accommodate even the largest of groups. Food unfortunately is hit and miss - and really the chefs should stick to one or two cuisines rather than trying to put the whole world on the menu. Most of the burgers we would say are miss, as is the carbonara, but the stir-fries and snack-sized sandwiches are certified hits. Q 24 hrs. (600Rbl). PTALESW

Sky Lounge Leninsky pr. 32a, 22nd floor, MLeninsky prospekt, tel. (+7) 495 781 57 75, www.skylounge.ru. The original Moscow view to die for - is there anything you can’t see from up here? Situated 105 metres up on top of the Sparrow hills you can pick out all seven of Stalin’s sisters and just about every other skyscraper from the large windows that surround the entire restaurant. It is possible to eat yourself out of house and home here with some truly outrageously luxurious and exotic dishes on the menu, but the portions are accordingly enormous and there are some more reasonable sushi options on the menu too. Q Open 13:00 - 24:00. (1,000Rbl). PALBXS August - September 2010

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Restaurants

Restaurants

Italian

Jewish

Steak Houses

Bocconcino C-2, Strastnoy bul. 7/1, MTverskaya, tel. (+7)

Chagall A-3, Jewish Cultural Centre, Bolshaya

Good Beef D-3, Bolshoy Cherkasskiy per. 15-17, bldg 1,

495 669 73 59, www.bocconcino.ru. Not the place to eat with your hands, although the pizza tastes so good, you may really want to. This classy pizzeria’s decor screams Moscow, e.g. the bone and cream coloured faux Tuscan interior, but the cuisine is pure Italy. The dough is magic: thin crispy and light. The toppings are fresh and full of taste and flavour. The only downfall to dining here are the drink prices: why they need to cost almost the same price as the pizza? Q Open 12:00 - 24:00. (700Rbl). PTALSW

Bolognese Cafe B-2, Ul. Malaya Dmitrovka 6/1,

MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699 07 70, www. novikovgroup.ru. How uninspiring when the dish after which a restaurant names itself is one of the most dull tasting things on the menu. Aside from the obvious they of course also have pizzas, which incidentally are made with good fresh dough, but ultimately this restaurant fails to give a semblance of excitment, especially in a city already rammed full of Italian restaurants running the same menus, country kitchen interiors and kitsch music. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. (600Rbl). PTAEBSW

Mamina Pasta B-3, Spiridonevskiy per. 12/9, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 221 64 64, www.pasta-mamma. ru. Large Italian chain serving up a reliable selection of Italian favourites. Most people choose either from the pasta or pizza menus, from which you can combine toppings as you wish. They don’t mess around here with too many exotic items, although their seasonal menus do try to fill things out with some more unusual classics. Families are welcomed with open arms and there’s usually a special kiddies area with toys and crayons to keep them occupied. Q (400Rbl). Mili E-4, Lubyanskiy proezd 15/2, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 625 10 20, www.restomix.ru. This is just the kind of place that Moscow needs - a restaurant that’s big on portions and low on pretention. Oh and the food is great too by the way and will leave you walking away feeling for once you got some value for your money. Especially the excellent zucchini pancakes with red caviar or the enormous tiramisu. The shady roof terrace is a veritable retreat on a hot Moscow day and you'll find it difficult to draw yourself away after the meal is over. Other restaurants take note, substance over style is the way forward. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (580Rbl). PTAIEBSW Mi Piace B-2, Ul. Tverskaya 20, MTverskaya, tel. (+7)

495 650 75 75, www.mipiace.ru. This pizzeria and pasta house chain has a cute brat in pigtails as its mascot. Smart interior with Iittle touches of Italy, including Sophia Loren photos and displays of pasta and preserves. Small portions perfectly suit ladies, but men will need much more than a handfull of pasta to fill up. Thankfully they have mega dessert pizzas! Six city locations include, Ul. Bolshaya Ordinka 13/9, tel. 951 52 50, Ul. Pokrovka 16/16, tel. 623 44 11 and Ul. 1-ya TverskayaYamskaya 7, tel. 970 11 29. Q Open 11:00 - 24:00. (450Rbl). PALGBXSW

Sorriso Pizzeria and Osteria C-3, Central Telegraf, ul.

Tverskaya 7, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 988 08 74. The real winner here is the pizza, thin as Kate Moss and arriving at your table straight after being cooked to a crispy delight in a stone wood-fired oven. The rest of the Italian menu doesn’t meet up with those standards though (since when did cabonara have spring onions in it?) although the staff and a soundtrack that does not include songs by Eros Ramazotti for once at least adds a little bit of fresh air. If you are around Red Square, it is a fairly safe, choice although we still prefer the sushi bar upstairs. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (350Rbl). PTAESW

Moscow In Your Pocket

Nikitskaya ul. 47/3, MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 495 926 48 03, www.chagall.ru. Moscow’s first kosher restaurant is a must for fans of Ashkenazi (Eastern European Jewish) cuisine. All the favourites such as gefillte fisch and potato pancakes are on the menu and when it says ‘babushka’s recipe’ you’d better believe it! We went wild for the mysterious ‘shamak in Odessa style’ which turned out to be a kind of herring pate usually known as ‘Gehakte herring’ that had us wishing that we too had a Jewish grandmother from Odessa. The place itself is very atmospheric, decorated in turn of the century style, complete with imitation Chagall paintings and they occasionally host live klezmer troupes to add a festive feel to your meal. Go through the Jewish cultural centre to find the restaurant. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (650Rbl). PAESW

Middle Eastern Bungalo Bar Ul. Zemlyanoy Val 6/1, MKurskaya, tel.

(+7) 495 916 24 32, www.bungalobar.ru. Ethiopian food is mostly served communally, and is eaten with your hands. Order the firmentoye (house) plate: it will be enough for four people between you. The juices from different meat curries, pickles and vegetables soak into the spongey, slightly sour Ethiopian injera bread, which is also used at the eating untensil.Tear off a piece of bread, wrap it around a dollop of curry and then… feel it slide down your throat. If eating with your hands doesn’t thrill you, they’ve got a lot of other meat and vegetarian dishes. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00. (400Rbl). PAXS

Ketama C-3, Ul. Bolshaya Dmitrovka 5/6, bldg 5, MTeatralnaya, tel. (495) 692 92 68, www.dvg.ru. After going through the huge Moorish door and up the precarious stone stairs you will be handed a torch and some slippers as it’s dark as hell in here and seating is on cushions and on the carpeted floor. When it’s light outside you can see that some immense effort was put into the unique design of the place, which is sexy, trendy and very Arabian nights with a good helping of Moscow cool on top. Most of the dishes taste satisfyingly authentic, although sometimes they may be over liberal with the salt. The exotic Moroccan tea is must. Q 24 hours. (600Rbl). PAXSW Marocana F-5, Kotelnicheskaya nab. 1/15, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 915 35 00, www.marocana.ru. The playful interior recreates the sounds and smells and feel of exotic and faraway Morocco. The couscous is one of the many tasty treats here and it comes in big portions. The menu also features an assortment of pastries, soups, Moroccan salads and a string of meat dishes that we can’t pronounce but smell great. The ethos here is to recreate the best of Morrocan home cooking and charge down-to-earth prices. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (600Rbl). PAES

Spanish Tapa de Comida D-2, Ul. Trubnaya 20/2, bld. 3, MTrub-

naya., tel. (+7) 495 608 20 07, www.tapadecomida.ru. Viva l’espana! Step off the mean streets of Moscow and say hola to tapas comida. Set up like a real Valencian cantina, this place looks and feels Spanish inside and out, complete with beautiful tiling, roughly painted mustard walls, football scarves, happy locals sipping wine at the bar and long Mediterranean style windows. This was the first tapas bar to open in Moscow and is still probably the best. They also have very good lunch deals, the paella is wonderfully authentic and the long wine list has something for everyone. A definite winner. Q Open 24 hours. (700Rbl). PTAEBW

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MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 220 13 20, www.goodbeef. ru. This steak cafe is a great choice for those who want their meat fast and red. There’s no messing about here, you simply go to the counter and choose a rib-eye, sirloin or fillet mingon and some garnishes (the baked potatoes are particularly good), tell them how you want it made up and it arrives at your table within minutes. With fussy service and overstyled interiors not part of the game here, the prices are low, but as the concept is from down under, you can be sure the meat is a healthy slab of Australian goodness. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (500Rbl).

Goodman B-2, Ul. Tverskaya 23, MPushkinskaya,

tel. (+7) 495 775 98 88, www.goodman.ru. The good in Goodman says it all. This stylish steak house chain is informal, relaxed, and the food is to be savoured. Great care is put into your meal and how it is served. The wood interior plays host to soft leather couches and all the waiters wear chef’s whites. The lavatories are five star, just like the service. Their menu, although predominantly meat oriented, has a hefty chunk of salads and seafood. QOpen 12.00 - 24.00. (1,280Rbl). PTJALEBXSW

Ukrainian Chervona Ruta 3-ya Krutitskii per.,2, MProletarskaya,

tel. (+7) 495 926 70 78. If you’re looking for authentic Ukrainian cooking and a heartwarming Slavic experience, go no further. This small restaurant offers real home cooking and pleasant service: it could easily hold its own with the other much more expensive Ukrainian places in town. The menu offers a wide selection of traditional Ukrainian dishes such as golubtsy (cooked cabbage rolls with rice, tomatoes, root vegetables and meat) Hetman borshch with rolls in a garlic sauce smoked and grilled meats, and dryaniki, potato pancakes. Their homemade blueberry and blackberry mors (a fresh berry compote-like drink) must be tasted. Be sure to look around the room and soak in all the wonderful pieces of Ukrainian folk art and colorful embroidery on display. Q Open 12:00-24:00. (400Rbl). PTBKS

Vegetarian Avocado F-3, Chistoprudny bul. 12, bldg. 2, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 621 77 19. Vegetarian cafes are always empty, right? Not this one. Come meal time it can be hard to get a table here. Cheery fruit and vegetable pictures on the wall suffice for décor. There is an extensive range of teas on the menu, and the food is delicious. Tofu, spinach and mushrooms feature prominently. The evening live music includes a rather hip harp player, but there is also guitar for those looking for something more conventional. Just try not to get annoyed with the staff, they really can be a bit dippy. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (300Rbl). PAEGSW Jagannath D-3, Ul. Kuznetsky Most 11, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 628 35 80, www.jagannath.ru. Delightful vegetarian cafe with a touch of hippiness. Depending on the time you can choose to take a dish from the bain-marie (hot plates) in the cafe or opt to go through to the restaurant. Either promises a relaxing repast. You’ll have the choice of many vegetables cooked all different ways under the sun, and there are tasty soups, salads and even soy shaslik (shish kebabs). There’s a very well-stocked vegetarian shop as well with all the unusual favourites such as mate tea and rye flour pasta. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. Th, Fr, Sa evening live music (in summer). (350Rbl). PTJAEGBSW moscow.inyourpocket.com

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Nightlife

Moscow never sleeps. Whether you are after an elite nightclub with a pyrotechnic show, a dingy dive or comfortable English style pub, you’ll not be disapointed. Prices listed in brackets indicate the average price of a main course.

Bars and Pubs Bobby Dazzler E-2, Kostyanskiy per. 7/13, MTurgenevskaya, tel. (495) 608 03 83, www.bobbydazzler. ru. In English slang a Bobby Dazzler is typically an amazing or very striking person or thing. This English pub is not quite that, but it certainly does push all the right buttons. With a cosy red interior, a very reasonably priced menu, background pub music that stays in the background and chirpy barmaids a lot of things are going right here. If you’re hungry go for the excellent homemade sausages - these are no skanky processed Russian sosiki, here it’s all about traditional meaty monsters with Guinness or red ale amongst many others exciting mixes. QOpen 11:00 - 03:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 03:00. Open 11:00 - 03:00. Sat, Sun 13:00 - 03:00. (400Rbl). PAEBS Katie O’ Shea’s E-1, Grokholskiy per. 26, bldg. 5,

MProspekt Mira, tel. 792 51 88, www.katieosheas.ru. The brains behind Moscow’s legendary Irish bar Silvers have put their heart and soul into this wonderfully bright, spacious and airy Irish pub. As well as having possibly the cheapest and best Guinness in Moscow (fact!), there’s also a great pub food menu (including curry) and the bar staff are all versed in how to hold a friendly conversation. Each night of the week attracts an open and lively crowd and sports fans will be delighted with the amount of screens and variety of different sports covered. It’s a great place for Sunday lunch and look out for posters advertising their (English language) pub quizzes. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. Open 09:00 - 24:00. Sat, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. (450Rbl). PAIEBXSW

Summer cocktail menu Every year Dmitri Sokolev, Moscow’s cocktail Tsar who runs 6 different cocktail venues in Moscow, goes into the lab and gets busy creating completely new cocktails to celebrate the arrival of summer. This year’s summer menu includes the Cappuccino Daiquiri, the Porn Star Martini which comes with cherries and a side of prosecco, an excellent Grapefruit Julep and the gin based KiwiKaze which is spiced up with fresh kiwi and elderberry syrup. Our favourite though is the Tema Special Drink – a bowl full of watermelon slices that have been soaked in a mixture of rum, limoncello, honey syrup and lime juice. All these and more are available at the following bars:

All Time Bar C-3, Ul. Bolshaya Dmitrovka 7/5,

bldg 2, MTeatralnaya, tel. (495) 629 08 11, www. alltimebar.ru. Q Open 24 hrs. (600Rbl). PASW Dream Bar E-3, Ul. Myasnitskaya 17, bldg. 1, MChistye prudy, tel. (+7) 495 621 77 68, www. dreambar.ru. Q 24 hrs. (600Rbl). PALS Help Ul. 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya 27, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 995 53 95, www.helpbar.ru. Q Open 24hrs. (300Rbl). PAEXSW Tema Bar E-3, Potapovsky per. 5, bldg. 2, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 624 27 20, www.temabar.ru. Q Open 24hrs. (300Rbl). PJABXS

Moscow In Your Pocket

Nightlife Kvatira 44 C-6, Ul. Malaya Yakimanka 24/8, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 499 238 82 34, www.k44.ru. The main draw of this branch of the popular french style cafe/bar is the large atmospheric courtyard terrace, which is surrounded by the ruins of an old building, that in usual Russian style is slowly being rebuilt with cheap bricks. When out in the yard, service can get a bit slow, and there’s no piano, but despite that it’s still one of the nicest terraces in the area. Inside there is more of a warm and cosy glow, perfect for snuggling up in. Q (350Rbl). PTAEB

Summer Terraces Dozens of the bars and restaurants that we have listed also have summer terraces, roof terraces or even full blown gardens. Here we’ve selected some of the best picks suitable for any mood.

La Cantina C-3, Ul. Tverskaya 5, MOkhotny ryad, tel.

(+7) 495 692 53 88, www.lacantina.ru. This crazy little Mexican bar feels like it’s full even when it’s half-empty. Maybe it’s something to do with the amount of tex-mex clutter that covers the place - flags, old adverts for corona and sombreros abound and the tables get nearer and nearer to each other as the night wears on into party mode. After dark, the live bands and cheap cocktails, combined with a clock above the bar that ticks backward, can lead to inebriated confusion… Q Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00. Live music daily after 21:00 weekends after 22:00. (700Rbl). PEB

Lebyedinoye Ozero Ul. Krymskiy val 9/22 (Enter from Titovskiy proezd), MOktyabrskaya, tel. (+7) 495 782 58 13, www.s-11.ru. One of the hotspots around at night, by day this lovely little complex of Thai style pavillions, hidden away right in the end of Gorky Park is an absolute delight. In of food the menu plays it fairly safe with reasonable shashliks, cheese breads and a couple of hit and miss wok dishes rounding out the menu, but sitting amongst the funky cushions and cute lamps listening to the soothing sounds of light chatter and bird song really adds a great bonus to the meal. In the evenings Moscow trendy set down here for cocktails and great DJ sets. There’s also a pool where you can cool off if you so wish.Q Open 24 hours. (400Rbl). PABW Mayak A-3, Ul. Bolshaya Nikitskaya 19, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 691 97 49, www.clubmayak.ru. Don’t come to Mayak looking to meet new people or find a special someone for the night. Mayak is mainly a sit-down gathering place for friends and colleagues. Located inside the Mayakovsky Theater, no wonder it is known for attracting the Moscow intelligentsia. Tables are filled almost every night of the week, but luckily the service is not affected by the large clientele volume. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. (350Rbl). PJALKS Papa Joe’s F-5, Ul. Nikoloyamskaya 26, bldg 1a, MTaganskaya, tel. 495 775 27 10, www.papajoes. ru. This fun latin bar and restaurant is the homing becon for Moscow’s latino community. The menu is full of Mexican classics as well as a few simpler Cuban dishes, while on the drinks side mojitos and margaritas of course feature heavily. At the weekend the atmosphere really heats up with literally everyone dancing along to the instructions of the inimitably fun Papa Joes salsa queens and taking part in limbo competitions and conga lines. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri 12:00 - 03:00. (500Rbl). PAEX Papas Place E-3, Ul. Myasnitskaya 22, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 755 95 54, www.papas.ru. Papas is the perfect two in one venue. A comfortable and relaxed restaurant fills out the street level while below there is a dark and dim cellar bar. There’s a large screen and dance floor where all can strut their stuff. Theme nights bring in a different gang every evening. The menu is straight up American style bar fare with burgers, pizzas, nachos and chicken wings with blue cheese sauce on offer. Q 24 hours. (500Rbl). PAEXSW moscow.inyourpocket.com

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Piro.g.i na Maroseike E-3, Ul. maroseika 9/2, bldg. 6, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 624 13 70, www. ogipirogi.ru. Bustling at all times of day with student types seeking cheap prices and a relaxed atmosphere you can get a pie or a beer here at any hour. Their pies are big bready affairs (we’ll never cease to be surprised at the Russian desire to eat potato pies) and the beer comes in half litres or teapots. With checked table clothes and a cool soundtrack Pir.o.gi (pies) encourages lingering and feels more like a cafe than a bar, although some of the full tables may also be put down to the fact that half of the guests are just waiting for a waiter to bring them their bill. The speed of service here is snail pace. DJs play on Thu, Fri, Sat.Q Open 24 hrs. (200Rbl). PAESW Punch and Judy Pub D-5, Ul. Pyatnitskaya 6/1,

MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 953 34 80, www. pjpub.ru. Another standard Russian pub, where nothing is actually particularly English at all, save for the menu (which in itself is actually not even that English either - check out their hilarious ‘fun and joy motto‘). The waitresses wander around in tarten mini-skirts while the patrons - mostly ing suits from nearby business centres - occupy the booths and leather benches.Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. (450Rbl). PAES

Silvers C-3, Ul. Tverskaya 5 (enter from Nikitsky bul.), MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 690 42 22. If there is such a thing as an expat favourite, this is it. When it comes to sports, however, Irish and British fans have the upper hand as the pub’s two screens are most always broadcasting these nations’ football, rugby and cricket games. The bar is smallish, pocket sized even, but filled to the brim on any given evening. The kitchen serves reasonably-priced British pub fare and the beer on tap starts at around 100Rbl. Q Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. (350Rbl). PJ Sixteen Tons Ul. Presnensky Val 6, bldg. 1, MUlitsa

1905 goda, tel. (+7) 495 253 15 50, www.16tons.ru. Authentic feeling English pubs don’t have to shout about it, you know when you walk in that something just feels right. Like here for instance. The 16 tonnes home brewed beer, a smooth tasting light ale, goes down sweetly and the stained glass windows and corralled seating makes everything indubitably atmospheric. The place, which is already huge, has still got quite an intimate feeling and buzzes with actors, students, journalists and the odd ing tourist. Upstairs is a space devoted to large big name concerts which becomes a dancing club later on. QOpen 11:00 - 06:00. (500Rbl). ission to concerts 300-3,000Rbl. PAEXS

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Art Garbage E-3, Starosadsky per. 5, MKitai Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 628 87 45, www.art-garbage.ru. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. (400Rbl). ission to concerts 100-500Rbl Cafe Pushkin B-3, Tverskoy bul. 26/5, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 739 00 33, www.cafe-pushkin. ru.QOpen 24hrs. (1,000Rbl). Chaikhona No.1 C-2, Hermitage Sad, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 790 00 32, www.chaihona. com.QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. (500Rbl). Coffee Mania A-3, Pl. Kudrinskaya, 46/54, Chaikovsky Cultural Center, MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 495 721 83 77, www.coffeemania.ru.QOpen 24 hrs (200Rbl). Daikon Sushi and Noodle House E-1, Pr. Mira 12, bldg 1, MSukharevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 607 75 78, www.daikon.ru. Q 24hrs. (400Rbl). Ded Pikhto E-2, Ul. Myasnitskaya 37, MChistye prudy, tel. (+7) 495 915 83 83, www.ginzaproject.ru.Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. (350Rbl). Elardgy B-5, Gagarinskiy per. 15a, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 627 78 97, www.ginzaproject. ru.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (450Rbl). Lebyedinoye Ozero Ul. Krymskiy val 9/22 (Enter from Titovskiy proezd), MOktyabrskaya, tel. (+7) 495 782 58 13, www.s-11.ru.Q Open 24 hours. (400Rbl). Lof t Cafe D-3, 6th Floor Nautilius Shopping Centre, Ul. Nikolskaya 2, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 933 77 13, www.cafelof t.ru. Q Open 09:00 - 24:00. (600Rbl). Mili E-4, Lubyanskiy proezd 15/2, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 625 10 20, www.miliresto.ru.QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (400Rbl). O2 Lounge C-3, Ul. Tverskaya 3 (The Ritz-Carlton), MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 225 88 88, www. ritzcarlton.com.QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (1,000Rbl). Oblomov D-7, 1-y Monyetchikovskiy per 5, MDobryninskaya, tel. (+7) 495 953 68 28, www.restsindikat.com. QOpen 12:00 - 05:00. (800Rbl). Osteria Montiroli Bol. Nikitskaya 60, bld. 2, MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 495 799 55 90, www.restsindikat. com.QOpen 12:00 - 05:00. (750Rbl). Scandinavia B-2, Ul. Tverskaya 19 (enter from Mal. Palashevsky per. 7), MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 56 30, www.scandinavia.ru. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00. (1,000Rbl). Sky Lounge Leninsky pr. 32a, 22nd floor, MLeninsky prospekt, tel. (+7) 495 781 57 75, www. skylounge.ru.QOpen 13:00 - 24:00 (1,000Rbl). Tiflis B-6, Ul. Ostozhenka 32, MKropotinskaya, tel. (+7) 499 766 97 28, www.tiflis.ru.Q Open 12:00 24:00. (1,000Rbl). Tsurtsum Cafe Vinzavod Art Centre, 4-y Siromyatnichesky per. 1 bldg 6, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495 783 89 48, www.winzavod.ru/curcum/. Q Open 11:00 - 23:00. Open 11:00 - 23:00. Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 06:00. (300Rbl)

August - September 2010

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The Real McCoy Kudrinskaya pl. 1, MBarrikadnaya, tel.

(+7) (499) 255 41 44, www.mccoy.ru. Look for this American style speak easy in the base of the huge Stalin skyscraper, on the Ul. Barrikadnaya side. Sometimes it could be a sleaz easy, especially on weekends when its heaving with people and you can get picked up or pick up faster than you can get a drink. Wed to Sat they throw in a live band as well. The bank teller staff stepped out of the Al Capone era sometimes approach patrons as if they expected them to whip out a revolver..... Q Open 24hrs (600Rbl). Live music daily after 20:30. PAEXSW

Cocktail Bars

Nightlife Modern Art Bar – Mart Just as we went to print the lovely guys behind such popular haunts as Kvatira 44, Café Jean Jacques and Mayak opened their new project Mart inside the Moscow Museum of Modern Art on ul. Petrovka 25. With an art book shop, regular exhibitions and good music, it should quickly turn out to be a popular hangout. The attitude is relaxed (no face control here) and with a large handpicked design team we are especially hoping that they make better use of the great space and huge lightfilled orangerie room than the previous tenant Café 24 did.

City Space F-7, Swissotel Krasnye Holmy, Kosmodamian-

Clubs

skaya nab. 52, 34th floor, MPaveltskaya, tel. +7 495 221 53 57, www.swissotel.com. The view is heavenly. There are no other words for it when you are on the 34th floor looking out at all of Moscow beneath you. Then the waitress brings you your personally mixed cocktail. Here they know the classic cocktails from the Bloody Mary to the Martini backwards. That’s why they reinvented them giving them a twist of orange blossom dew, a rinse of pernod, a topping of light vanilla foam. After a few cocktails, leaving here really brings you crashing down to earth. QOpen 17:00 - 03:00. (1,000Rbl). PAEXSW

O2 Lounge C-3, Ul. Tverskaya 3 (The Ritz-Carlton),

MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 225 88 88, www. ritzcarlton.com. Welcome to the most notoriously glamorous terrace in Moscow. Just about every visiting celebrity you can think of has been up at this prohibitively expensive cocktail lounge and sushi bar. Once the summer kicks in the outside terrace here is guaranteed to be full to brimming with everyone jostling to get a closer look at the outstanding view of the Kremlin whilst burning money like there never was an economic crisis. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (1,000Rbl). PJABW

Sports bars Buddies C-2, Ul. Tverskaya 12, bldg. 8 (down Kozitsky

Hot Dog’s Bar ‘n Grill Ul. Zemlyanoy Val 26, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495 917 01 50, www.hot-dogs.ru. With a bar area wrapped in flat screens, live broadcasts on two giant screens, poker tables, great daily drink specials and happy hours, you can be sure that Hot Dogs takes good care of its sports fans. Popular international matches are on every night of the week. It gets rowdy and rocking once the crowds come in, but there’s plenty of room to dance and mingle with the lads and ladies (the bar is as big as a warehouse). Just watch out who you are getting attention from, not all the sexily dressed women here as, ahem, honest as you might hope.Q Open 24hrs (500Rbl). ission 200Rbl from 22:00 till 05:00. PAEBXSW John Donne Pub B-4, Nikitskiy bulvar 12, MArbatskaya,

tel. (+7) 495 627 69 07, www.john-donne.ru. Well we have to it that over the months this place has really picked up a lot more atmosphere and is quickly turning into an expat haunt of epic proportions - you’ll hear more English spoken here than Russian. Seating is only on high bar stools, meaning that standing and sipping a pint whilst watching the game is not frowned upon - in fact it’s almost encouraged! On match days it can be impossible almost even get in the door, but the huge mixed crowd only adds to the atmosphere (and clouds of smoke…). Food is not worth ordering, so it’s better to eat in the Café Jean Jacque next door. Also at Verkhnaya Radishevskaya 15 (metro Taganskaya). Q 24 hrs. (400Rbl). PALBXSW

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per), MChekovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 694 02 29, www. buddiescafe.ru. If you’d like to go out to watch the game, but aren’t that into greasy fried snack-food smells and beer-sticky floors and table tops, then Buddies sports bar is an excellent alternative. While the bar has a good selection of European and Russian beers on tap, the restaurant serves elegantly prepared Asian-fusion dishes, including delicious pre-game munchies like Thai spring rolls. Because groups watch their game of choice on their table’s own personal flat-screen, Buddies generates small intimate pockets of excitement but not the traditional, communal sports-bar hype. When you exit the metro, turn left. In about 30 seconds an alley will appear on your left. Walk all the way down it until you hit Kozitsky per. Buddies is across the street. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00. (450Rbl). PJNXSW

Kruzhka E-2, Ul. Myasnitskaya 32/1, bldg. 1, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 644 39 36, www.kruzhka.com. Moscow’s ultimate chain of cheap pubs. Each Kruzhka has a large drop-down projector that shows mostly Russian sporting events. The prices are so good here that you can order at ease: pitchers of beer all night, fried-food platters, salty beer snacks and grilled meats. There are four beers on tap and the cheapest one costs little more than it does in a shop. There are 34 Kruzhkas around town so be sure to check their website to find the nearest pub and make reservations. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 04:00. (200Rbl). JASW

Coyote Ugly C-3, Ul. Kuznetskiy Most 6/3, MKuznetskiy most, tel. (+7) 495 692 03 97, www.coyoteugly.ru. Part of theinternational chain that inspired the film of the same name, this is a bar where the girls rule the roost and you’d better beware,these are no mere go-go dancers, they have attitude! Yes they can probably squeeze a lemon for your tequila from their cleavage, but they also have plenty of personality. Girls are allowed to dance on the huge American style bar, security make sure the men keep their hands in their pockets and the soundtrack is very much girl power. Happy hours bring in a mixed crowd and a competent door policy that keeps out the ladies of dubious reputation make sure that everyone has fun. QOpen 18:00 - 06:00. ission men Fri, Sat 300Rbl after 21:00. PAX Gogol (GO) C-3, Stoleshnikov per. 11, bldg. 1, MTeat-

ralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 514 09 44, www.gogolclubs.ru. Something is surely going to happen here, any minute now in any one of the three connecting spaces - its got that backstage energy. From the stage under the circus tent out the front, the cosy Parisian style restaurant and the beer kiosk that wouldn’t be out of place at an outdoor festival of rock, Gogol is a great place for any amount of time, be it long or short, day or night. The music is bohemian stuff you probably won’t the next day but you’ll enjoy it while you’re here. Summer brings their outside terrace to life, and if the sun es over, they’ll give you a blanket. See, they want you to stay and have fun. Q Open 12:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 24hrs. ission to concerts 200-1,000Rbl. (300Rbl). PAEBXSW

Ikra Ul. Kazakova 8a, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495 778 56 51, www.ikraclub.ru. This funky orange 70s style place has been around for years and still brings in the crowds due to their policy of bringing in big live acts who are more on the alternative side of the spectrum. With a more atmospheric concert hall than other similar places such as 16tons, the concerts are usually well worth their price tags. During the day there’s also a café with business lunches and house music pumping away and after hours, the parties tend more towards the dance genres, making it a good starting point before heading off to the myriad of clubs down the hill in the old Arma factory complex. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. (400Rbl). ission to concerts 200-6,000Rbl. PAEK

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Adult Entertainment In Moscow there are strip-club options for every taste and budget and you can catch a striptease anytime, anywhere: in a shabby bar, a luxurious Western-style club or, spontaneously, on cafe table-top.

Kapriz Akademika Sakharova pr. 14, MKrasnye

Vorota, tel. (+7) 495 723 58 23, www.clubkapriz.ru. This upscale male strip club is hot, hot, hot! Against a backdrop of sexy zebra patterns and red lights, women young and old come here to party with toned Herculean studs. Everyone, from the waiters, to the dancers, from the doorman, to the barman, treat their female guests like queens. Private dances, VIP private rooms and crazy menus are all available. Wednesday is “open people’s night,” where any man can come in and try his hand (or behind) at the stripthing. The women vote for a winner, and the lucky man may even be hired by the club. It is highly recomended that you book a table in advance. QOpen 22:00 - 07:00. (700Rbl). ission woman 500Rbl, men 7,000Rbl. Mon, Tue woman 1,000Rbl (free alcohol all night). PALEK

Rasputin A-6, Zubovsky bul. 25, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 495 363 34 40, www.rasputinclub.ru. If you’re looking for an upscale strip bar that lives up to Moscow’s reputation, you can head to Rasputin, which is named after the famous womanizing monk. Just about everything here breathes ‘spend, spend, spend’. And you just might want to with all this beauty around. In addition to several private rooms (jacuzzi and sauna included) Rasputin’s shows are notably better than average. They could almost be staged in the Bolshoy (if not for the lack of clothes). The club also boasts a fine restaurant. Read the menu carefully, it holds a number of suprises… Q Open 24 hrs. ission free. 17:00 - 06:00 1,000-1,500Rbl. PAXW Night Flight B-2, Ul. Tverskaya 17, MPushkinsaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 41 65, www.nightflight.ru. Moscow’s oldest nightclub is still the leading default-choice for foreign businessmen looking for attractive Russian company and a great Scandinavian meal. The orange and brown carpets, sofas and armchairs and staircases lined with bright strings of lights scream 70s-porno flick, but the guests don’t seem to mind. They have more modern scenarios on their mind. Both the restaurant’s and the club’s lounge areas’ busiest times are weekdays nights. Q Open 21:00 - 05:00. Restaurant 18:00 - 04:00. ission 1,100Rbl (to the bar from 21:00). Credit cards accepted only in the restaurant. PJAKS

Propaganda E-3, Bol. Zlatoustinsky per. 7, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 624 57 32, www.propagandamoscow.com. A cafe club with a backstage look, Propaganda has a chilled out vibe that is popular with everyone. Service is attentive and swift so for better or worse you’re never long without a tipple. The food is reasonably priced portion-wise and the lounge-house sounds put everyone into their comfort zone. Of an evening, different djs sets kick in. They invite foreign djs regularly and host gay evenings on Sunday nights. Q Open 11:30 - 06:00. Sat, Sun 12:00 - 06:00. (250Rbl). ission free, facecontrol. PJEXSW Moscow In Your Pocket

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August - September 2010

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Nightlife

Nightlife

Face control

Alternative

Moscow doesn’t believe in tears. Moscow believes in face control. The man on the door with the clipboard is the bane of the Moscow club scene and the idea of barring entry to someone to night spots because said potential client is unfashionably dressed, ugly or just has the wrong brand of sunglasses on is now as quintessentially Russian as vodka and mayonaise salads. In Your Pocket is no stranger to the phenomenon and yes we've been turned away too. Here are a handful of the places we didn't manage to list.

kaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 39 71, www.artefaq.ru. By day it’s the perfect place for a coffee and a read, come the evening it’s a great idea for a restaurant or cocktail date and at night? Head downstairs and dance away! This sprawling place is a bit of a maze and full of inviting corners and mezzanines. The interior is on the right side of bohemian cool. Mismatched furniture, exposed brick walls and bookshelves put the art in the name, without falling into the over-the-top trap and the whole atmosphere is complimented perfectly by a wonderful jazz funk soundtrack. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. (400Rbl). ission to concerts 200-500Rbl. PAIEBSW

Soho Rooms Savvinskaya nab. 12, bldg. 8, MFrunzenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 988 74 74, www.sohorooms.com. Fail! We were scanned by the video camera (which we guess relays the pictures back to some kind of evil jury hidden inside the club) and the voice that came through the ear pieces to security said no. Krysha Mira nab, Taras Shevchenko 12, entrance 3, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 979 56 92. Fail! They say it’s the best club in Moscow, but you can only get in if you know the . We went with someone who claimed to know the . Turned out they got it wrong and that that old chestnut has been pulled more than a few times. We are family Lubyanskiy proezd 15, bldg 2, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 767 30 00. Fail! They claim to be the most exclusive in town, so the odds were never very high, although people who have been there, tell us it is empty. Bilingua Krivokolenny per. 10, bldg 5 MTurgenevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 623 96 60, www.bilinguaclub. ru.Fail! Our group of late-twenty to thirtysomethings was turned away from this haunt of impoverished students and school kids because we couldn’t prove we were old enough to enter. Strange world. Denis Simachev Stolyeshnikov per. 12, bldg. 2, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 80 85, www.denissimachev.com. Score! Lord only knows how we got in to this fashionable haunt, said editor was even holding a carrier bag. Perseverance is key here, and a foreign guy on hand who looks like he may be spending some money helps too. Interestingly they also love journalists and foreign correspondents. Tekhniki Molodezhi 3-ya ul. yamskogo polya 24, MBelorusskaya, (495) 363 28 11. Score! We lied our way in here, by having one of our gang pretend he was our bodyguard. Either they believed us or they were amused and rewarded us for our imagination.

Pacha ul. Nikolskaya 10, MLubyanka, (+7) 495 798

57 77, www.pachamoscow.ru. Score! We got in, but only as part of a ‘LabelFucker’ Party. the LF group on facebook and they will give you s to enter on their party nights. Good luck trying on another day though, apparently even Pacha’s own staff couldn’t get in to the opening night party.

Arte FAQ C-2, Ul. Bolshaya Dmitrovka 32, MChekhovs-

Art Garbage E-3, Starosadsky per. 5, MKitai Gorod, tel. Purga C-2, 4 Strastnoi bulvar bldg 3(enter through bar

Poslednya kaplya in the courtyard), MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 792 12 38, www.purga-club.ru. Just as in Alice in Wonderland, follow one of your fellow revellers (who will probably be dressed as a white rabbit) through the fireplace of the Poslednaya kaplya bar upstairs and you’ll land in this sparkly underground warren where New Year’s Eve is celebrated every night complete with ridiculous costumes, champagne and a President’s speech. You can also catch mock Russian weddings happening with the help of dresses fashioned from toilet paper. Needless to say, just like on New Year, there’s a wild party atmosphere and everyone is intent on getting completely hammered. Definitely one of Moscow’s more fun clubs. QOpen 18:00 - 06:00. (400Rbl). ission free. PESW

B2 Ul. Bolshaya Sadovaya 8, bldg. 1, MMayakovskaya,

bldg 1, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 504 09 32, www. myspace.com/rollingstonetattoo. Go up the stairs and climb through the hole in the wall to find yourself in one Moscow's only 'fashion' rock clubs, that gleams with roadhouse americana. Whisky in the jar-o is order of the day and up on the awesome roof terrace the action can keep going well into the morning. Staff are not the friendliest we’ve ever met - and that’s putting it nicely, and in a very un-rocker style they've recentely implemented a face control policy. Try not to get too wasted else you may make an unwise decision in the tattoo parlour out the back.Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00.

tel. (+7) 495 650 99 09, b2club.ru. One of Moscow’s biggest live music clubs, B2 plays hosts to all kinds of jazz, latino, rock and ska music and more. With five floors holding seven bars, a courtyard and a capacity of 2000 people it’s quite possible that you will hear every kind of music imaginable in just one night - if you can manage to figure your way around the labyrinthine interior that is. Students and older locals alike flock to the place to hear some of Russia’s best and newest bands play at rock bottom prices. As well as the jazz club, disco club, latino music, lounge, rock concerts and football screenings, there’s karaoke, billiards, sushi, a cinema and a summer courtyard! QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. ission free, Thu 300Rbl after 22:00, Fri, Sat 300Rbl (woman), 500Rbl (man) after 20:00. ission to concerts 300-3,000Rbl. PAEBXSW

Solyanka F-4, Ul. Solyanka 11/6, bldg. 1, MKitay

Duma C-3, Ul. Mokhovaya 11, building 3b (enter from

Rolling Stone Bar and Tattoo C-6, Ul. Bolotnaya nab. 3

Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 221 75 57, www.s-11.ru. Not quite sure what it is really, Solyanka is part club, part restaurant, part someone else’s lounge room when that somone else owns a mansion. Suitably cool and unaffected, a lot of Russians sit around chilling out and ignoring each other while lounging on or dancing over the mismatched furniture. Three rooms are filled with lounge chairs and adorned with design odds and bobs. There is a bar in the back, with twelve or so space bubble lamps hanging over the top. Drinks are lush, food is affordable. Just arrive early enough so you don’t have to wait in line. Q Open 10:00 - 06:00, Sat 11:00 - 07:00, Sun 11:00 - 06:00. ission free. Fri, Sat 500Rbl after 23:00. Face-control. (400Rbl). PJAXSW

Sorry, Babushka E-4, Slavyanskaya pl. 2/1, MKitai

Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 788 06 15, www.sorrybabushka.ru. Sorry, Babushka is a peaceful place to hang out at night. You will mostly see young middle class Russians here. They have wallet-friendly prices and are not as difficult at the door as you might find at other place across the city. The place has a nice atmosphere and the interior is stylish with chandeliers and fancy sofas. The music varies from old school favorites to R&B, Hip Hop and Trance.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Tue, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. Face control, dress code (500Rbl). PLEXSW

Moscow In Your Pocket

(+7) 495 628 87 45, www.art-garbage.ru. An absolutely wonderful hidden courtyard with a very confusing name. In the yard itself tables nestle under fairy light covered trees and canopies whilst doors lead off in all directions to various different bars and dining rooms inside the surrounding buildings. The crowd here is hip yet mature and the friendly atmosphere bubbles with the prospect of some great food from the restaurant or great tunes from the DJs in the club down in the basement. Easily one of our favourite places to hang out in this part of town on a warm summer's evening. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. (400Rbl). ission to concerts 100-500Rbl. PAEBXSW

moscow.inyourpocket.com

Nikitskiy per. 2), MOkhotny ryad, tel. (+7) 495 692 11 19, www.clubduma.ru. If you can find it you won’t be disappointed. This place is not only literally underground it’s also through a couple of courtyards and hidden down an alley. Down in this large round cellar they play quality funk music to a cool youngish crowd who know their stuff. Some great live bands also often drop in to crank up the tempo. The interior oozes groovy 1970’s Soviet chic, whilst upstairs in the summer there's a reasonable covered terrace and a ping pong table in the yard. QOpen 09:00 - 06:00, Sun 11:00 - 06:00. (400Rbl). ission to concerts 200-600Rbl. PAEBSW

F.A.Q. Cafe C-3, Ul. Bolshaya Polyanka 65/74, bldg 1, MDobryninskaya, tel. (+7) 499 755 88 27, www. faqcafe.ru. The old branch of this long loved underground cafe had to be closed down due to fire saftey reasons, and although this new incarnation looks great, it has lost some of the atmosphere of the cramped old little den of bohemian excitement. Staff are true Russian hipsters and the patrons likewise and everybody but everybody can be expected to be discussing either the live music, the shockingly high price of drinks, or the long-awaited opening of their awesome roof terrace. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. (300Rbl). ission to concerts 200-500Rbl. PJAEBSW moscow.inyourpocket.com

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Live music venues At some venues you can turn up to find there are only three people watching some odd alternative jazz, whilst at others you may pay 500Rbl to hear next year’s hottest band. In the following clubs you usually find the later.

B2 Ul. Bolshaya Sadovaya 8 bldg. 1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 99 09, b2club.ru.

Sixteen Tons Ul. Presnensky Val 6, bldg. 1,

MUlitsa 1905 goda, tel. (+7) 495 253 15 50, www.16tons.ru. Gogol (GO) C-3, Stoleshnikov per. 11, bldg. 1, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 514 09 44, www.gogolclubs.ru Ikra Ul. Kazakova 8a, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495 778 56 51, www.ikraclub.ru Masterskaya D-3, Teatralny proezd 3, bldg. 3, MLubyanka, tel. 625 68 36, www.mstrsk.ru

Krisis Zhanra F-3, Ul. Pokrovka 16/16, bld. 1, MChisty Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 623 25 94, www.kriziszhanra. ru. Popular with young yuppies who haven’t forgotten their student days just yet, this place is a little bohemian paradise. Tucked away on the middle strip on Pokrovsky bulvar, its almost underground. It’s so dark, smokey and the music is so loud, you can not understand anything your friends say let alone the waitress. The three split levels create a seventies open plan warehouse feel to which the classics soundtrack goes well with. Great for before and after drinks. QOpen 11:00 - 06:00. (270Rbl). PJENXSW Kult F-5, Ul. Yauzkaya 5, MKitai Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 917 57 06, www.club-cult.com. This is one for the Kool kids who are into Kult music. On first glance it seems like a small underground place, but there is in fact a whole other huge café area hidden round the back which really fills up when a popular DJ is playing as the place can get pretty sweaty and the air-con works marginally better back there. The music here hovers around the funk, jazz, reggae, ska genres and you can regularly catch local break-dancers having a battle here. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 06:00. (250Rbl). ission free, face control. PNS Masterskaya D-3, Teatralny proezd 3, bldg. 3, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 625 68 36, www.mstrsk.ru. What is there not to love about this folksy ex-banya with the air of an underground Viennese coffee house mashed together with a bohemian artist’s studio? On Tuesday’s they have a board games night, weekends all manner of concerts, during the day artist’s sit and ponder the eccentric bric-a-brac cluttering the tiled room and by night intellectuals argue about Nabokov over glasses of luscious homemade ice-tea. There’s even a small theatre in the back - we can’t get enough of this place, at any time of day. To find it go down the alley between ul. Neglinaya and ul. Rozhdestvenka. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. (450Rbl). ission to concerts 100-800Rbl. PENSW Vino-grad Ul. Lesnaya 1/2, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7)

495 251 77 00, www.vino-grad.ru. A quiet place to have a bite to eat early on, things in here can quickly get crazy though as every night brings in a different crowd and a different style of music whilst the cave like interior means it also can get hot quicker than you can say ‘where’s the air con?’. However, it is cheap, the bouncers are as close to human as they get in this town and the staff are even openly friendly. It’s not unknown even for executives who are looking for an anti-glamour experience to come down here and loosen their ties. Q Open 24hrs. (300Rbl). PASW

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sightseeing

Please note that museum ticket offices (kassi) usually close one hour before official museum closing times. Also bear in mind that most museums charge extra for photography and video.

sightseeing Churches and Monasteries

Hello Lenin!

Cathedral of Christ the Saviour B-5, Ul. Volkhonka

Kremlin Kremlin C/D-4, Alexandrovsky sad, MAlexandrovsky Sad, tel. (+7) 495 697 03 49, www.kreml.ru. The street plan of central Moscow forms an impressively ordered pattern of concentric circles, clearly marking out the city’s development outwards over the centuries. In the middle of this great Catherine wheel is the Kremlin, the fortified hill which formed the hear t of the ancient city, and which to this day houses the political HQ of the planet’s largest nation. Within the world-famous red walls nestles a collection of buildings of various architectural styles, ranging from ancient Russian ecclesiastical, through Romanov imperial classicism, to 1960s soviet modernism. While much is out of bounds to tourists, being part of the Government and Presidential estate, there are easily enough treasures open to the public to make the citadel an essential conquest. Unlike Napoleon, who stayed here after his forces took Moscow in 1812, you will need a ticket to enter. There are a number of ticket booths, the most important being located in Alexandrinsky Sad, on the west side of the Kremlin. Having bought your tickets, leave any large bags in the cloakroom located near the ticket office, under the gate. Be aware that sometimes certain windows will only sell certain types of ticket. A ‘Kremlin Territory’ ticket gets you into the site itself, along with all of the cathedrals and the more ancient buildings.Q Open 10:00 - 17:00, 10:00 - 18:00, closed Thu. The Armoury Chamber has seances at 10.00, 12.00, 14.30, 16.30. ission to the Armoury Chamber 200-700Rbl. ission to the Cathedral Square (5 museums and cathedrals, the Patriarch’s Palace, exhibitions in the Assumption Belfry) 100-350Rbl. Audioguide 200Rbl. Tickets can be purchased an hour before the seance in the museum’s ticket office at the Kutafiya Tower and in Aleksandrovsky Sad. Kremlin Armoury С-4, Krasnaya pl., MBiblioteka im. Lenina, tel. (+7) 495 697 03 49, www.kreml.ru. You need a separate ticket for the Armoury, the 19th Century museum purpose-built to house the nation’s gob-smacking collection of gold, silver, arms and imperial clothes and carriages. They also hold a collection of the infamous and rarely glimpsed Faberge eggs. To prevent overcrowding, Armoury tickets can only be used after the time printed on them. They do not give access to the rest of the site. Q Armoury Chamber has seances at 10.00, 12.00, 14.30, 16.30. Closed Thu. Tickets can be purchased an hour before the seance (in the museum’s ticket office). ission 200-700Rbl.

Moscow In Your Pocket

Lenin Mausoleum D-4, Krasnaya pl., MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 623 55 27, www.lenin.ru. On display in various incarnations of his mausoleum since 1924, this is where the waxy, bald and embalmed body of the founder of the Communist Party is. Visiting here is a no-nonsense event with guards posted at each corner to prod you forward should you halt at any stage during the viewing. the super-long queue at the entrance to Red Square nearest to the Alexander Gardens. No bags. No cameras. They’ll search your pockets to make sure you don’t sneak anything - he may be dead but there’s not messing with him. Leave bags in the storage lockers before going through the metal detectors.QOpen 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon, Fri. ission free. Uspenskiy sobor (Cathedral of Assumption) C-4,

Krasnaya pl., MAleksandrovsky Sad, tel. (+7) 495 697 03 49, www.kreml.ru. The grandfather of all the Kremlin church es, th e Assumption Cathedral is the oldest and the biggest. Built in 1475 by Italian architect Aristotle Fiorovanti, this is wh ere I van t h e Te r r i b l e wa s crown e d Emp eror in 1547 before becoming a stable for Napoleon’s horses in 1812. Their soldiers made off with the chandliers now hanging overhead, some of which are so hefty that they weigh over five tonnes. The cossacks brought them back after they caught up with the lightfingered Frenchmen. In 1918 the last Easter service was held here. Services resumed in 1990.QOpen 10.00 - 17.00. Closed Thu. ission the Cathedral Sqaure (5 museumscathedrals, the Patriarch’s Palace, exhibitions in the Assumption Belfry) 100-350Rbl.

moscow.inyourpocket.com

15, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 28 47, www. xxc.ru. This is what a new Russian orthodox church ought to look like. It is so immense you’ll be wondering how many blocks of dynamite the Soviet’s needed to get rid of the thing the first time around. That was in 1931. This newly restored example came into being from 1994 until 2000 and is a shiny beacon for the Russian Orthodox Church at home. Buy your candles to the left of the entrance way, photos and souvenirs to the right. The walls are decorated with lists of awards, battles, list of those perished and awarded in the war with Napoleon in 1812 are inscribed once more upon the walls. The sprawling cathedral also houses a museum on the history of the site, as well as a car wash (yes, really) in the basement. During excursions (minimum 10 people) you can see the cathedral, museum and the collonade. As it is a working place of worship women are expected to cover their heads and everyone should dress conservatively. No cameras or mobile phones should be used. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00. ission free. Tours in English 600Rbl per person (min. 10 people), pre-booking recquired call (+7) 495 637 28 47) Services are held daily at 08;00 and 17:00, extra services on Sat 09:00, Sun 10:00.

Donskoy Monastery Donskaya pl. 1, MShabolovs-

kaya, tel. (+7) 495 952 49 01, www.donskoi.org. The late sixteenth century saw the founding of this well-kept monastery, originally part of Moscow’s fortifications. The surrounding brick walls include twelve towers with the main entrance being decorated by bright frescoes as you enter. Formerly the headquarters of the Russian Orthodox Church until 1927, today it is a peaceful abode surrounded by pleasant parklands and a hub of religious activity very popular with pilgrims who come to visit the 16th Century miracle working icon and the holy relics of St. Tikhon. Inside the monastery grounds are bizarrely, a few tanks in honour of the Church’s efforts in the Great Patriotic War (WWII), although the real draw of course is the stunning 16th Century churches. The ading cemetary is also a worthy historical site dating back to the 17th Century. Excursions can be organised around the walls and towers. Q Open daily 08:00 - 19:00. Necropolis 08:30 - 18:30. Services at 07.40, 16.40. ission free. Guided tours only for groups from 20 to 45 people 250Rbl per person by prior arrangement, for booking call (+7) 499 952 02 53.

Novodevichy Monastery Novodevichy proezd 1, MS-

portivnaya, tel. (+7) 499 246 85 26, www.shm.ru. Monastery or convent, this place occupies a very specific place in Russian history. On the grounds surrounded by the Kremlinesque walls are four cathedrals including the majestic four-onion globes of Smolensky Cathedral. Founded by Ivan the Terrible in 1524, it was here that Peter the Great imprisoned his sister Sophia and executed her ers from the Strelsty rebellion. Today it is a magnificient and peaceful cloister with an impressive icon collection. Q Open 10.00 - 17.30. Closed Tue, last Mon of the month. ission 100-150Rbl.

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State History Museum State History Museum C-4, Red Square 1/2, MTeat-

ralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 692 37 31, www.shm.ru. Right on Red Square, this museum consists of two floors offering an extensive foray into Russian history from the middle ages of the mammoths right up to the 19th century. Each individual hall complements its inhouse exhibition, such as the Novgorod and Vlir Halls with their vivid reconstructions. The atmosphere is conducive to both wandering and musing as the museum guides are, lets say, a little less protective than usual. Upstairs while it lacks any English explanation, has an abundance of cool historical titbits. Like the boots big enough to hide a small child which are worn to get through a swamp. The elegant side of Russian life is given slightly more space than the peasantry but their role in history garners them several rooms toward the end demonstrating Russian customs and revolutionary activists such as the Decembrists. There are English leaflets that you can request from the counter as you enter that cover the first floor, but not unfortunately the second. There is a 2hr audio guide (one hour for each floor) at a cost of 100Rbls (deposit another200Rbls) or you can buy a hefty printed guidebook.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Tue, first Mon of the month. ission 60-250Rbl. Excursion in English, French by prior arrangement, 700-1,000Rbl per group (max 15 people), 1,400Rbl for the gold exhitbiton. PAU

Gold. Metal of Gods and King of Metals

This huge new permanent exhibition from the State Historical museum is the largest hoarding of such treasure in Moscow. Split into three parts, the first part of the exhibition; ‘Metal Gods’ deals with gold in religious worship. Orthodox crosses, icons, books and marriage crowns sit alongside religious paraphernalia from other Christian denominations as well as Jewish household items and synagogue designs, Islamic art and Buddhists and Chinese amulets and statues. The second part focuses on gold as a symbol of power and displays the gold wealth of the Tsars who had everything from golden swords and medals to golden plates and snuff boxes. The final part of the exhibition is themed around gold as a symbol of wealth and luxury and has ornamental items from across Europe and Russia all the way to the Orient with a definite highlight being the priceless Bronze age jewellery dating from the 1st Century BC and the Faberge eggs.

St. Basil’s Cathedral (Pokrovsky) D-4, Krasnaya pl. 2,

MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 698 33 04, www.saintbasil. ru. Standing magnificent at the head of Red Square is St. Basil’s cathedral. Russia’s most recognised building was built in 1561 to celebrate Ivan the Terrible’s crucial defeat of the Khan of Kazan. While the view from outside is spectacular and rightly famed, it is certainly also worth a visit inside, as it’s a warren of corridors, small halls, icons and frescoes.Q Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. ission 50-150Rbl, (180Rbl from June 01 to August 31). Guided tours for up to 20 people 2,450Rbl (2,900Rbl - from June 01 to August 31) by prior arrangement. Photo 160Rbl, video 180Rbl.

August - September 2010

44

sightseeing

Spoiled for choice, Moscow is chock full of museums on absolutely every theme, activity and personality, from medieval to modern art and Lev Tolstoy to Vladimir Lenin.

Museums Andrey Rublyev Museum of Ancient Russian Culture and Art Andronevskaya pl. 10, MPloshchad Ilyicha, tel.

(+7) 495 678 14 67, www.rublev-museum.ru. Housed in the grounds of Andronikov Monastery, this museum is dedicated to the art of the Russian icon throughout the ages. Although none of the famed Rublyev’s work is here, the icons in the collection are still beautiful. Preservation is paramount for icons and many are still shining brightly despite their age. Spread out over three floors of the restored St. Michael’s chapel,a ghostly feeling still inhabits the place. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed and last Fri of the month. ission foreigners 300Rbl, Russians 30-150Rbl.

Borodino Battle Panorama Museum Kutuzovsky

pr. 38, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 499 148 19 27, www.1812panorama.ru. Founded 150 years after one of the most famous battles in human history the Borodino Battle museum is not to be missed. It has a collection of weapons, ammunition, uniforms and graphics, but the main feature is the round canvas painting, 115m wid e an d 15m hi gh. Standing in the middle of this panorama you experience up close the heroic (and bloody) battle during the 1812 war between Russia and Napoleon’s Grand Army in the days before CNN. The epic battle, which took place September 07, 1812, west of Moscow, was one of the war’s decisive encounters. 250,000 soldiers took part, of which a minimum of 67,000 perished. After Borodino Napoleon took Moscow, the city he left soon after it was set on fire. The Russian army led by General Kutuzov then chased the French all the way to Paris. The Panorama museum is located at Kutuzovsky Prospekt, where you also can find the 28m high Triumphal arch devoted to the war with Napoleon. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Fri. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed 10:00 - 21:00 (April September), 10:00 - 20:00 (October - March). Closed Fri, last Thu of the month. ission foreigners 50-150Rbl, Russians 0-90Rbl. Guided tours in English (up to 30 people) 2,100Rbl per group plus ission fee by prior arrangement.

Cold War Museum (Bunker 42 on Taganka) F-5, 5-y Kotelnichesky per. 11, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 500 05 54, bunker42.com. This top secret bunker is located 18 floors beneath Moscow in the Taganskaya area. So close to the metro, there are not only ading tunnels but carriages rattling past fill the concrete ageways with a whole lot of groaning noisy sound. Decommmissioned and sold off at auction, this exmilitary communications post is now a museum dedicated to the Cold War. Complete with KGB rooms (now rehearsal space for heavy metal bands), raid sirens, and kilometres of tunnels, this is the real experience. Not recommended for claustrophobes, but definitely for the curious and historically inquisitive. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. ission foreigners 1,200-2,000Rbl, Russians 650-1,100Rbl. As part of tour groups only. Tours avaliable in English, German, French, Spanish, require advance booking. PN Moscow In Your Pocket

sightseeing Great Patriotic War Museum 1941-1945 Ul. Bratyev

Contemporary Russian History Museum B-2, Ul. Tverskaya 21, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699 67 24, www.sovr.ru. Start early in the day with this one. There’s a whole century of the most turbulent, convuluted, well documented history to be seen and absorbed. Housed in a 1780s mansion and former premises of the Moscow English Club, this grand dame was also the former Museum of Revoution. Now that history has moved on, so has the museum, covering all aspects of Russia’s recent history. English texts are sporadically situated in the rooms to make more of the experience. Don’t linger too much in the Revolutionary phase or you’ll be too tired by the time the Space Race starts, and Perestroika and the great music section dedicated to Russia’s answer to the Beatles. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu, Sat 11.00 - 19.00, Sun 11.00 - 17.00. Closed Mon and last Fri of the month. ission 70-100Rbl.

Fonchenko 10, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) (495) 449 80 44, www.poklonnayagora.ru. Dedicated to the Great Patriotic War, this museum opened in 1995 on the 50th anniversary of the Great Victory. The museum houses a set of evocative battle dioramas on the ground floor, with excellent explanations of the scenes in English. Immediately as you enter, you see the Commanders Hall and Grand Staircase leading up to the Hall of Glory, a solemn memorial space. Further along there is the exhibition hall with exhibits about the different battles and parties involved. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, last Thurs of the month. ission 0-100Rbl. If you’re after a tour in English, it is best to book a week in advance. Because there are a lot of military holidays in April and May, if planning a visit then, you need to book two months in advance. Group 1-5 people - 1,000Rbl/per group, 6-10 people 1,500Rbl/per group, 10-20 people 2,400Rbl.

Cosmonautics Museum Mira pr. 111, MVDNKHa,

Gulag Histor y Museum C-3, Ul. Petrovka 16,

tel. (+7) 495 682 57 60. This is a place for space fanatics. Tucked under the huge monument to the Soviet Union’s race to the stars is this museum (sadly only in Russian) of all things cosmos. There are models of satellites, original space suits from both side of the Atlantic, the interior of part of the Mir space station, photos and documents from famous cosmonauts such as Yuri Gagarin and plenty of artworks relating to man's obsession with conquering space. The stuffed bodies of the first dogs in space Belka and Strelka, sit proudly next to the tiny pods that they flew around the earth in. There’s also a café serving space food and some 3-D shows (for which you have to pay extra). Q Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Tue. ission 20Rbl100Rbl. Excursions in English, French by prior arrangement by phone (+7) 495 683 18 26.

MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 621 73 46, www. gmig.ru. The full comprehension of the Gulag is a discomforting experience to say the least and the lack of English will do little to prevent you from being thoroughly chilled by the tragic story this museum has to tell. There are three parts; a documentary part showing the repression of different groups such as the church and the kulak peasants. Artistic responses to the gulag from exprisoners adorn the walls, entrance and staircase and there is a reproduction of a gulag barracks, punishment cell and officers rooms downstairs. The fact that this part is sealed off and the guide has to escort you here adds sobriety and realism to the exhibit. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Thu 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. ission foreigners 100Rbl, Russian 10-50Rbl. Excursions in English by prior arrangement. P

bulvar 25-27, MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 495 605 62 36, w w w.glinka.museum. Fyodor Shalyapin’s name an d voi c e rin gs ou t over Russian th ea trical cul tural histor y like no oth er - h e is essentiall y the Anna Pavolva of the opera worl d. Fin din g fam e in roles such as Boris Godunov and Don Quixote, he performed to immense acclaim across Europe, thanks par tl y to his par ticipation in Diaghilev’s 1909 Russian seasons. This 18th Century house which he had restored and made his Moscow home, is full of relics from his famous friends such as Rachmaninov and Levitan who met him here and is also a simply beautiful example of early 20th Century style, full of exquisite bureaus, chaise lounges, silk wallpaper and even an old gramophone. Ask the women to turn on recordings of his singing to make the whole experience even more atmospheric. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Tue. ission 50-100Rbl.

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Russia's Romanovs Romanov Boyar House in Zaryadye D-4, Ul. Varvarka 10, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 698 12 56, www.shm.ru. Before they were the Tsars of All Russia, the Romanovs were a rich boyar (merchant) family with a manor not far from the Kremlin. The house of Nikita Romanovich Yuryev was first recorded on a map in 1597. After four centuries, it is now preserved as a small and thoroughly interesting museum. The models and exhibits recreate the daily life of that time. The men’s floor with the room for the elder sons and the upper women’s floor where a maximum amount of windows ensured some productivity at the loom say much about the culture. English texts in all the rooms provide insight into each making a visit here enjoyable and educational. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Tue, first Mon of the month. ission 140Rbl. Guided tours for up 10 people 700-1,000Rbl per group plus ission fee must be booked in advance. Moscow State Museum Burganov’s House B-4, Bol.

Afanasyevsky per. 15/9, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695 04 29, www.burganov.ru. This is hands down one of the most inspiring artistic spaces in Moscow and referring to it as a “museum,” does it a grave injustice. Burganov’s House is first and foremost the functioning workshop of Alexander Burganov (1935 -), one of Russia’s most famous living sculptors. His contemporary masterpieces, which can also be seen in many European capital cities, greet you from trees, windowsills and the neighboring buildings surrounding the house’s courtyard - a type of open-air sculpture garden. Inside the house, Burganov’s smaller works, including several paintings, are on display. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. ission foreigners 120Rbl, Russians 60Rbl.

Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 624 84 90, www.mosmuseum.ru. Two rooms outline the history of Moscow from medieval farming ground to the building of the Kremlin through to the rise of commercial Moscow in the 19th century. It is hard to grasp the full impact without any English descriptions, though you can buy a booklet for 10Rbls in the first room. The second room has no English but is very visual and evocative with shop fronts presenting different industries . Q Open 10.00 - 18.00, Wed 11:00 - 21:00, Fr 11.00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, last Fri of the month. ission foreigners 70Rbl, Russians 30-50Rbl.

Museum of Unique Dolls C-3, Ul. Pokrovka 13/2, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 625 64 05, www.dollmuseum.ru. The art of doll making in Russia, and England over the last two centuries recieves special attention here. Even though there are just two rooms, these glass cabinets are packed with an army of traditional wax, plastic and cloth figures. Noteworthy exhibits are the Japanese dolls at their Shinto temple and the Swedish dolls with a three-faced head. The more than 6,000 items, also includes English doll’s houses and a studio where they restore dolls. QOpen . Closed Mon. Open 10:00 18:00 (closed from 14:00 - 14:30). ission free. Excursions are available if booked one week to a month in advance. Price per group of 15 foreigners 4,800Rbl.

Icon House Museum on Spiridonovka B-3, Ul. Spiridonovka 4, MArbatskaya, tel.(+7) 495 690 54 74, www. dom-ikony.ru. If you are at all interested in icons this place is a must visit as they have one of the best icon collections in the city. In their collection are over two thousand pieces of art, including rare icons such as the 15th Century icon of Theotokos of Georgia and icons belonging to Russia’s last Tsar. The iconography on display includes works from numerous epochs regions and painting schools and in the restoration workshop at the weekend you can see some of Russia’s greatest experts applying their skills. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. ission 150Rbl. Excursions in English, call min 1 day in advance, 4,000Rbl per group (max 15 people). PA

Polytechnical Museum D-3, Novaya pl. 3/4, entr. 1, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 625 06 14, www.polymus. ru. This enormous museum covers the whole of Russia’s advance towards the technological age. The history of the development of hundreds of everyday useful things such as the TV, radio, light bulb and the clock is illustrated with thousands of antique samples. As well as beautiful Zenit cameras, huge gramophones, original Thomas Edison photos and Pathe cinema projectors, there are also models of drilling equipment, nuclear powers stations and 50 year old space food. Fans of Soviet design will be beside themselves when they see the Soviet versions of the Sony Walkman and Yamaha keyboard. Up on the top floor there is one of the world’s oldest computers from the late 1950s along with the first (very ugly) Apple Mac and the museum’s very own robo-guide from the 1970s. Most information is in English. Q Open 10.00 - 18.00. Closed Mon, last Fri of the month. ission 40-100Rbl.

History of Moscow Museum D-3, Novaya pl. 12, MKitay

Fyodor Shalyapin’s Memorial Estate Novinskiy

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moscow.inyourpocket.com

August - September 2010

46

sightseeing

Pushkin Fine Arts Museum B-5, Ul. Volkhonka 12,

MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 697 95 78, www. artsmuseum.ru. Opened to the public in 1912, this museum was primarily intended as an educational facili ty. Coming from the fashion of that time, it houses a lot of the world’s ar t in the form of plaster casts. It also has works by the Old Masters and representatives of various European sch ools of painting. 1924 saw the first addition of a picture gallery, to be followed in 1948 by the addition of many works from 19th century. It’s a manageable musuem, but be sure to know which section you are heading. Two buildings sit side by side - the first grandiose structure houses the old plastery cast bit The impressionists are held in a separate wing for which there is a separate ission charge. Be warmed that the Audio guide can be temperamental as there are recordings for each hall in the classics section but also individual listings of paintings but for only half that actually have the headset symbol. This is the only English available. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. ission 50-300Rbl.

Sakharov Museum Ul. Zemlyanoy Val 57/6, MKur-

skaya, tel. (+7) 495 623 44 01, www.sakharov-center.ru. Thought provoking and contemplative, this museum should be on the list for those interested in the life of Sakharov, Russia’s Nobel Peace Prize winning physicist and human rights campaigner. The upstairs museum room hosts five informative displays (it is a very contemporary place) discussing the establishment of the Soviet regime, the beginning of dissent, the repercussions, the results (Gulag) and the aftermath. The displays are mainly photographic, but there is some installation. While all information is original and therefore in Russian, the museum provides extensive information on each display in English as well as an additional guidebook. Downstairs is a library and reading room. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. ission free.

Tretyakov Gallery at Krymsky Val B-6, Krymsky Val 10, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 499 230 77 88, www.tretyakovgallery.ru. Dedicated to Russian art of the twentieth century, this is the extension part of the Tretyakov project. And a worthy addition it is. Stunningly presented, each work contributes to the chronological project. Head up to the fourth floor to begin with the Moscow modernists. Not only is this venue, in of English, one of the friendliest, it is also very well presented. Everything is explained in English and as well as the canvas texts there are several multimedia and video representations providing a historical and political framework to understanding the pieces. Most impressive is the video of the destruction of the Cathedral, right near to a full screen window from where you can see the site today. Another benefit is that it allows the enthusiast to see the Soviet era as the long and complex process it was, full of difficult and conflicting attitudes and ideas and stages. QOpen 10:00 - 19:30. Closed Mon. ission foreigners 180-300Rbl, Russians 70-150Rbl. English audio guide 300Rbl. Excursions in English, German, French, for booking call (+7) 495 953 52 23. PU Moscow In Your Pocket

sightseeing Tretyakovskaya Gallery D-5, Lavrushinsky per.10, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 499 230 77 88, www.tretyakovgallery.ru. For visitors anxious to uncover the mysteries of the famous ‘Russian soul’, the Tretyakov Gallery is the place to start. Founded in 1856 by influential merchant and collector Pavel Tretyakov and presented as a gift to the city in 1892, it is the world’s number one museum of Russian art. Ranging from exquisite and mysterious 12th century icons to the politically charged and prescient canvases of Russia’s favourite realist master, Ilya Repin, the collection is a rich and revealing insight into the history and attitudes of this long suffering yet inspired people. All pictures are labeled in English. Be sure to make use of the A3-size laminated information sheets found through-out the museum; there is always at least one English version hidden amongst the Russian ones! The gallery does not include the museum’s twentieth century collection, which is kept at a separate site a kilometre away. QOpen 10:00 - 19:30. Closed Mon. ission foreigners 180-300Rbl, Russians 70-150Rbl. English audio guide 300Rbl. Excursions in English, German, French, for booking call (+7) 495 953 52 23. PU Viktor Vasnetsov Memorial Museum D-1, Vasnetsov per. 13, MSukharevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 681 13 29, www. tretyakovgallery.ru. Incongruously plonked down in amongst a group of Soviet high-rises sits Viktor Vasntesov’s romantic little wooden house. Decorated in colourful revivalist style, it is a gem for those who are fans of Russian mythological art a la Repin or Roerich with a sprinkling of Tolkien fantasy. The downstairs of the house contains the romantic wooden living rooms complete with real stone oven, while the huge attic houses some of the painter’s most famous oversized fairytale paintings. Q Open 10.30 - 17.00. Closed Mon, Tue, last Thurs of the month. ission foreigners 150-250Rbl, Russians 50-100Rbl. Vodka Museum Izmailovskoe shosse 73zh, MPartizanskaya, tel. (+7) 499 166 50 97, www.vodkamuseum.ru. The Vodka Museum is located inside the Izmailovo Kremlin. Once you reach the Ismailovsky market entrance, just follow the signs. The museum only has one floor, and it’s not very big. But you should still expect to spend about an hour and half looking around. The exhibits give you the detailed and fun history of vodka in Russia and tell you about the role it plays in Russian society. You will learn that it has changed the course of history in Russia on more than one occassion. The museum boasts 700 different small exhibits, and the collection of different Vodka brands is quite impressive, plus with the regular tour a complimentary shot is of couse included! After the tour you can also arrange to attend a vodka degustation and buy your favourite brands. All information and signs at the museum are also in English. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. isson foreigners 100Rbl, Russians 50Rbl. Excursions in English, call min 5 days in advance (150Rbl/person foreigners, 100Rbl/person Russians). PAL moscow.inyourpocket.com

Lyrical City Bulgakov House A-2, Ul. Bolshaya-Sadovaya 10,

MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 775 94 61, www. dombulgakova.ru. Steeped in popular Moscow legend, this is where Bulgakov, the author of Master and Margarita lived and wrote his famous novel. Today it is a tiny artist gathering place with exhibitions of contemporary Russian artists and a historical exhibition dedicated to the house’ most famous inhabitant. Night tours of Bulgakov’s Moscow from 01:00 until 06:00 on Friday and Saturday nights taking in the sights of old Moscow familiar to Bulgakov and his friends and the novel, while good tours are also available during the day. The resident feline Behemoth is more than fat, he is adorable and there’s even a cute cafe serving tea, coffee and pies. Q Open 13:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 01:00. ission free. Tour in English (100-1,300Rbl) can be arranged in advance (call a week or so in advance to arrange). LK

Chekhov Museum A-3, Ul. Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya 6,

MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 495 691 61 54, goslitmuz.ru. Chekhov never went out of favour even during the Soviet years. His museum opened here for the first time in 1953, and underwent a spring clean in 2003. The objects remain au thentic, a little too authentic when you see the tiny metal bed he slept on. It was from this red castle-like house that he left to go on his epic jaunt to Sakhalin, at that time the journey took around three months. It was here that the music lover, who lived here with his mother, brother Mikhail and sister Maria, received patients, continuing his work as a doctor. Tchaikovsky came to thank him for the personal dedication in his book Gloomy People. Also upstairs there are exhibitions following the life of the great writer and a suprising number of photos and a display showing different dramatic productions of his plays around the world. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00, Wed, Fri 14:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Sun. ission foreigners 60-100Rbl, Russians 30-50Rbl.

Dostoevsky Memorial Museum Ul. Dostoevskogo 2,

MMendeleevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 681 61 54, goslitmuz. ru. Dostoevsky is usually associated with St. Petersburg but in fact he grew up in Moscow. His father was posted to the city’s hospital for the poor and this small apartment, attached to the hospital, was given to him and his family. The austere rooms are demonstrative of Dostoevsky’s lower middle class upbringing and are lovingly tended to by the Dostoevsky-loving museum staff. If you have the time they can philosophise about the great writer for hours. The second undecorated wing of the flat houses a collection of banned illustrations made for his books in the 1930s as well as a desk (filled with his notes), that he wrote the Brothers Karamazov on. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00. Wed, Fri 14:00 - 12:00. Closed Mon, Tue and last day of the month. ission 60-100Rbl foreigners, 30-50Rbl Russians.

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Gorky Memorial Museum B-3, Ul. Mal. Nikitskaya 6/2, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 690 05 35, imli.ru. Designed by one of Russia’s most celebrated art nouveau architects Fyodor Schechtel in 1900 the Ryabushinsky Mansion is most famous as the former home of writer Maxim Gorky. This magical building is full of beautiful stained glass windows, a spectacular marble ‘wave’ staircase and exquisite carved oak ling and is worth a visiting just for aesthetic reasons. There is extensive written material available in each room giving insight into Gorky’s life in the house, his tastes in décor and ornaments and there are some stories about the famous contemporaries who sat and talked about the Russian soul there. Considering Gorky was the head of the writer’s union, that list includes everyone from Mayakovsky to Tolstoy. Q Open 11.00 - 18.00. Closed Mon, Tue, last Thu of the month. ission free. Lev Tolstoy Memorial Estate in Khamovniki A-6, Ul. Lva Tolstogo 21, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 499 246 94 44, www.tolstoymuseum.ru. The house where Tolstoy and his family lived after leaving his family estate and moving to Moscow in the 1881 has been kept in pristine condition. You almost expect them the Tolstoys to come inside and sit down to dinner or Sofia Tolstoya to serve tea from the samovar or to see Leo stomping up the staircase to his study to write a few more pages of War and Peace. This place makes clear how the family spent their time, including displays and exhibits of the shoes that Tolstoy made himself. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Thu 13:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, last Fri of the month. ission foreigners 60-200Rbl, Russians 60-120Rbl.

Mayakovsky Museum D-3, Lubyansky proezd 3/6, bldg. 4, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 621 65 91, www. mayakovsky.info. This is one for fans of the great man. An ode to surrealism, this museum is a structural rendition of Mayakovsky’s life and works and is spread out over four floors. It is a shame that tours are only available in Russian as the presentation of the exhibits is superb. From childhood, through to fame and his eventual suicide, there’s industrial installations, theatre playbills, scraps of poetry and photgraphs and at the end, a collection of several Soviet busts of the poet. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 13:00 - 20:00. Closed Wed, last Fri of the month. ission foreigners 90Rbl, Russians 20-50Rbl. Pushkin Memorial flat A-5, Ul. Arbat 53, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 499 241 22 46, www.pushkinmuseum. ru. Given Pushkin’s unfortunate demise in a duel fighting for his wife’s honour, it seems fitting that the house where he spent his honeymoon is now a memorial museum. Moving into the Arbat street house at the beginning of February, he even held his stag night here. In a bid to engender some of the atmosphere of the time, the rooms are filled with portraits of his contemporaries and letters although not alot of Pushkin’s belongings remain in situ apart from his writing desk. The desk with his ink stand with a negro boy standing between two gold cotton bails is the star feature. English texts are provided to give a little extra clarity. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Sat 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Tue, last Fri of the month. ission foriegners 80-100Rbl, Russians 20-80Rbl. August - September 2010

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sightseeing

Galleries Moscow Museum of Modern Art C-3, Ul. Petrovka 25,

MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 694 28 90, www.mmoma. ru. Based in three locations, this building is the main hub of the MMOMA and its great garden of witty sculptures by Tsereteli (Moscow’s contemporar y ar t guardian and self-promoter) offers a stunning introduction to the contemporary Moscow art scene on the way in. The Museum’s aim is to preserve Russia’s avant-garde tradition and they are constantly adding to their collection of Malevichs, Filinovs, Kandinskys and the like. Moving closer to the present day the permanent collection also carries much non-conformist art from the late Soviet period, as well as new stars of the Russian art scene. As well as exhibits from new Russian artists, there are also regular exhibits from non-Russian contemporary artists. Exhibition halls at Ermolaevsky per 11 (metro Mayakovskaya), Tverskoy bul. 9 (Pushkinskaya), Gogolevsky bul. 10 (Kropotkinskaya).Q Open 12:00 - 20:00. Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed last Mon of the month. ission foreigners 100-150Rbl, Russians 0-150Rbl. Entrance may be more for special exhibitions. Guided tours in English, French for groups (up to 30 people) 1,200Rbl per group by prior arrangement by phone (+7) 495 231 44 06. PU

Garage Centre for Contemporary Culture Ul. Obraztsova 19A, MNovoslobodskaya, tel. +7 (495) 645 05 20, www.garageccc.com. Founded by Russian socialite Daria Zhukova, Garage is a huge constructivist ex-bus depot, that has been turned into one of the most successful contemporary art spaces in Moscow. As well as hosting massive exhibitions from world stars such as Anthony Gormley, the space is also used to get the general public involved in the city’s emerging art’s scene. Also has an excellent cheap café. Q Open 11:00 - 21:00, Fri - Sun 11:00 - 22:00. ission 100-200Rbl. Excursions in English, French, German by prior arrangement. PU Red October Chocolate Factory C-6, Bersenevskaya nab. 6, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 499 230 39 30. One of Moscow’s most beloved manufacturers - the Red October Chocolate Factory, moved to a site further out of the centre a few years ago and as the old building’s conversion into a luxury residential complex slowed down, the artists moved in. The current residents include the Pobeda Gallery and the Lumiere Brothers Photgraphy Centre who focuse on local and international photographers. The Art Strelka design college has also just recently moved into the area and regularly has lectures and workshops as well as concerts on their outdoor stage. On the food/drink side, this place is very happening with the Mao restaurant a particular highlight, while the Rolling Stone Tattoo bar takes care of the sex, drugs and rock’n’roll and Strelka bar, Rai club and Progressive Daddy cover the glam factor. Q Galleries closed on Mon. ission 100-200Rbl. Winzavod 4-y Siromyatnichesky per. 1 bldg 6, MChkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 917 46 46, www.winzavod.ru. A hub of contemporary galleries and other artistic inspirations on an industrial factory lot. There are over ten galleries with exhibitions varying from Russian photography to American and British works. There are also artists studios, an alternative clothes shop and a cafe. The location and industrial surroundings gives the feeling of being on the movie studio back lot. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. ission free. Moscow In Your Pocket

sightseeing Parks and Palaces

City Tours

All Russia Exhibition Centre (VVTs) Pr. Mira

Capital Tours D-4, Gostiny Dvor, Ul. Ilyinka 4, entrance

No.6 (go down the stairs), office 21, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 232 24 42, www.capitaltours.ru. Offering a Kremlin tour and Moscow City bus tour, this is a good bet if you are looking to maximise your time. The Kremlin tour takes in the grounds, cathedrals and the Patriarchs Palace. The bus tour takes in a wider part of Moscow and technically you can hop and off it, although the buses don’t go that often so i’ts best just to stay on the bus and suffice yourself with the 20 minute photo-taking/souvenir-buying break on the top of the Sparrow hills. The guides are very knowledgeable and have enough facts in the back of their heads to get you through even the worst Moscow traffic jam. All tours are conducted in English and include entrance fees. Booking in advance is recommended (there’s even online reservation). QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Point of departure: Capital Tour’s office. Kremlin walking tour costs 1,550Rbl, children 775Rbl, leaving at 14:00, except Thu. Taganka Secret Bunker tour 1,400Rbl, 1,100Rbl children, leaving on Thu only at 14:00. Moscow All Around bus tour 1,000Rbl, children 500Rbl, leaving daily at 10:30, 13:30, 15:30 from Bolshoy Theater bus stop (next to Karl Marx monument).

Moscow Mania tel. (+7) 903 158 34 56, www.

mosmania.com. This wonderful tour guide company offer everything from the classic Kremlin/ Red Square orientation tours to things much more off the beaten track. We particularly like the ‘old charming Moscow’ tour and the ‘Moscow mysteries’ tours which introduce you to more notorious elements of Moscow’s history. There are also Soviet themed tours, visits to local galleries, tours to the top of the Ostankino tower and they can tailor make a tour for you if you have a certain interest in mind. Guided tours in English, German for groups (3-20 people). QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Walking tours 300Rbl, private guide 500-1,000Rbl/hour. N

Moscow River Boat Tour Boats leave from the river

stop outside the Evropeisky Shopping Centre, just north of the Bogdana Khmelniktskogo (crystal) Bridge, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495 225 60 70, www.cck-ship.ru. An hour and half’s tour along the Moscow River takes you past all the main Moscow sights making it a must see excursion for any city visitor. Boats make stops at different sightseeing points along the way, including Moscow University - Sparrow Hills, the Kremlin, Gorky Park and the Neskuchny Gardens. If you want to get off, explore the area, and hop back on another boat later, you better buy a full-day , or else, once you disembark, that is the end of your ride. The tour begins at the crystal pedestrian bridge near Kievsky train station and ends at the Novosky Bridge, across the river from the Swissotel Krasnye Holmi. You can also board from Novosky and end at Kievsky. Q ission adults 400Rbl, children 150Rbl. All day es with unlimited stops, 800Rbl, and 200Rbl. Navigation from April to October and boats leave every 15 minutes.

moscow.inyourpocket.com

119, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 544 34 00, w w w. v vcentr e.ru. T hi s spra wlin g c ompl ex of pavillion buildings whose glory is fading fast, long walk ways and elaborate fountains is a throwback to the Soviet era of glorification. The 90 or so pavillions built to house displays of progress of the great collectivisation of the farms now host a variety of commerical enterprises and some are not that different to what is found in the metro ageways. The Friendship Fountain with its dancing maidens each dedicated to a Soviet republic looks like a cross between a Hindi goddess creation and C3PO’s lost robot brides. Come weekends it is crawling with people on two legs, two skates or two wheels. Rental of rollerblades (roliki) and bicycles are on either sides of the grand entrance. If someone invites you to go to VDNKh - they mean this place or the metro station opposite that goes by the same name. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. Pavilions 10:00 - 18:00, 10:00 - 19:00 (Sep - Apr, weekends). ission free.

Arkhangelskoe Country Estate 5Km Ilinskoe Shosse, M Tushinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 363 13 75, w w w.arhangelskoe. org. This sprawling 18th Century countryside estate once belonged to the exceptionally rich Prince Yusupov and is one of the quietest stately parks within a reasonable distance of the ci ty. The buildin gs th emsel ves usually house historical and contemporary exhibitions from the local scene. In the summer it’s a great place to take a walk by the Moscow river and do some fishing or have a picnic and in the winter it‘s a romantic setting for that quintessential Russian troika (sleigh) ride. The formal gardens, which offer excellent views towards the surrounding countryside, are dotted with neo-classical sculptures, hidden summer pavillions, ice-cream stands and the odd Shetland pony or camel. GETTING THERE: From metro Tushinskaya take mini-bus N549, 541 or 151. On a good day it takes about 20minutes. Q Park open daily 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. Museums open 10:30 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:30 - 18:00, closed Mon, Tue, last Wed of the month. Park ission foreigners 240Rbl, Russians 40-80Rbl. Museums ission foreigners 140Rbl, Russians 30-50Rbl. Botanical Garden Aptekarsky Ogorod E-1, Pr. Mira 26, MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 495 680 58 80. Founded on the order of Peter the Great in 1706, these gardens are over 300 years old. Over the years, the gardens have witnessed all the turns of history, falling into disrepair during the soviet years. Major reconstruction works were carried out in the 1900s. Today the orangerie with its tropical palms is a drawcard as well as the carp pond, and the immense trees that dot the landscape. Several restaurants and cafes operate here making it a handy spot for relaxation whatever the season. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. ission 50-100Rbl. moscow.inyourpocket.com

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Gorky Park B-7, Ul. Krimsky Val 9, MPark Kultury,

tel. (+7) 495 237 07 07. If you thought the days where grown women walked around toting stuffed toys (and men winning said toys for them) were over, visit the one and only gargantuan Gorky Park. Depending on the season, the rides can seem like the best thing since square bread or desperately sad. They are all working even if they have one child. Imitation space flights and gravity defying stunts, beer kiosks, miniature trains, this place is for kids big and small. Q Open daily 10:00 - 22:00. Amusement park 12:00 - 19:00. ission 20-80Rbl.

Hermitage Garden C-2, Ul. Karetny Ryad 3, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699 08 49, www.mosgorsad.ru. While not the largest of Moscow’s gardens, the Hermitage is a delightful green space in the centre. You can find here the Hermitage Theatre, Chaikhona no.1 restaurant with its deck of cushions and even a pigeon and dove nesting box (with very fat and fluffy birds). Well cared for, there are several charming seating areas and beautiful cherry blossoms in the Spring. Q 24 hrs. ission free.

Izmailovsky Park Narodny pr. 17, MPartizanskaya, tel. (+7) 499 166 61 19, www.izmailovsky-park.ru. Once the stomping ground of a teenage Peter the Great Izmailovo is the largest of Moscow’s parks and is even said to be the largest park in Europe. It’s got everything you could want inside - good shashliks (shish kebabs), a ferris wheel, lakes for boating on, an island (which you can take a boat trip to), all kinds of rollercoasters, live music and acres of forest and park land. Before you enter the park you can’t miss the kitsch Izmailovo market, where all kinds of dodgy traders sell every kind of Russian souvenir you may ever want, plus pirate versions of every film you can imagine. Q Park open 24 hrs. Amusement park 14:00 - 19:00, weekends 12:00 - 20:00. Kolomenskoye Museum Estate Pr. Andropova 39, MKolomenskoye, tel. (+7) 499 615 27 68, www.mgomz. ru. Sprawling and green Kolomenskoye is a favourite with kids, mums and dads, old grandmothers and young hipsters alike. The gentle sloping hills covered with cherry trees, the abundance of seating and the wafting aroma of sizzling shaslik from afar put visitors in a cheerful mood. Remnants of this estate’s past life as a Royal Estate can be identified in the scattering of different museums like beekeeping house and churches. It’s also UNESCO listed. Got Tsar fever? Take a troika ride. Just don’t bring any beer bought from shops outside of the park or you could end up getting friendly with the police and making a deposit to their own beer fund. Q Open 08:00 22:00. Museums open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. ission free to the estate. ission foreigners Museum of front gates 300Rbl, belfry 100Rbl, palace 150Rbl. August - September 2010

sightseeing Park Pobedy Ul. Bratyev Fomchenko 7, MPark Pobedy.

Constructed in honour of Russia’s victory in the Great Patriotic War (World War II), park pobedy (victory) offers powerful reminders of Russia’s suffering during the war as well as providing views over the skyscrapers of Moscow. The entrance to the park is marked by a long promenade surrounded by fountains, which leads up to a 142 metre high obelisk covered in representations of scenes from the war. Behind the obelisk there’s also a war memorial museum and further on down the hill an exhibition of tanks, war planes and other heavy weaponry. Beyond that the park stretches on into forest and down towards a tributary of the Moscow river. Q 24 hours.

Kuskovo Park and museum Ul. Yunosti 2, MRyazanskiy

prospekt, tel. (+7) 495 370 01 50, www.kuskovo.ru. Kuskovo park is one of the oldest country estates in Moscow. It was given to General Sheremetev by Peter the Great in 1715, but was left to fall into neglect before being plundered by Napoleon’s troops in 1812. Nowadays the estate has been restored to its former glory and is a good example of Russian 18th Century imperial architecture. Within the estate there’s a large pink cake of a palace looking onto a lake surrounded by many smaller pavilions (entrance to which you have to pay extra), one of the most interesting is probably the one that houses the ceramics museum. On the other side of the lake is a large wood popular with local cyclists and joggers. GETTING THERE: From metro Ryazanskiy prospekt cross the main road and take bus no.113 or 208. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue, last Wed of the month. ission foreigners 100-250Rbl, Russians 20-150Rbl. Excursions in Eglish, German by prior arrangement, booking by phone (+7) 495 375 31 31. UL

Lefortovo Park Ul. Krasnokazarmennaya 3, MBaumanskaya, tel. (+7) 499 615 27 68, www.mgomz.ru. This area, in the east of the city, lodged all foreigners living in Moscow up from Tsar Ivan the Terrible till the 19th century. This so-called Nemetskaya Sloboda, Foreign Suburb /Quarter, was located far outside the outer city walls. It was from here that Tsar Peter the Great made his first foreign ‘expat’ friends from western countries, and not only from (Nemets means German). He built his own private army, that later became his elite troops, and started to practice ‘wars’ with modern methods. The area still houses important military academies, hospitals and other facilities residing in former palaces. Nowadays you can see ordinary citizens strolling in the park near the Yauza river and eating - what else? - shashlyks in the sun. The suburb is also famous for the Lefortovo prison the KGB used during communist times. Q Open daily 10:00 - 22:00. ission free.

Moscow In Your Pocket

Sokolniki Ul. Sokolnicheskiy val 1, bldg. 1, MSokolniki, tel. (+7) 499 268 54 30, www.park-sokolniki.ru. One of Moscow’s oldest parks is named after the falcon hunts conducted by the Tsars. (A sokol is a falcon). Today it’s popular with families as amusement rides are found here, including a ferris wheel from which there is a great view and the park is also the home ground of hockey team HC Spartak Moscow. Q Open 24hrs. Weekdays free, weekends 20-80Rbl.

Tsaritsino Ul. Dolskaya 10, MTsaritsino, tel. (+7) 495

321 63 66, www.tsaritsyno-museum.ru. Commissioned by Catherine the Great as an out of town palace in 1775, Tsaritsino is the poor cousin of the Moscow estates and palaces. Early construction didn’t meet with the Empress’s approval and by 1795, after dismissing the main architect , the complex was alread y l ying in ruins. Over the ensuing years, it has become a fashionable country estate, a favourite place for locals to enjoy picnics amongst the ruins. Since the 1980s the estate has been undergoing renovations. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00, Fri, Sun 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon, Tue and last Fri of the month. ission park free. Museums 20-150Rbl.

Vorobyevi Gory (Sparrow Hills) , MVorobyevi Gory,

www.vorobyovy-gory.ru. Stand and survey over 1000 years of history. It might be hard to imagine the footprints of Napoleon when you are surrounded by kiosks and fast food vendors, not to mention the souvenir touts. Still, you can get an idea of the length and breadth of the capital from here, as well as seeing which of Stalin’s Seven Sisters you can make out or play at counting the gold onion globes. In the summer months the park is a quick dip into nature, although you also need to be fit to make it up all the steep stairs in one go. Turn around for a glimpse of the great promise of education for the people; Moscow State University (MGU) directly behind you. This building is grand, the rest behind it are frightfully unspectacular.

moscow.inyourpocket.com

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see St. Petersburg

St Petersburg’s world-heritage-listed old-town, set on a series of rivers and canals is one of the most awe-inspiring and extensive in Europe. There are also some wonderful world-famous imperial palaces and gardens situated just outside of the city. August and September is a wonderful time to visit as the city finally starts to warm up and you can spend hours wandering the romantic backstreets and watch the city's bridges rise to let tall ships at night.

Shopping Moscovites were born to shop. It‘s just that for a long time, there wasn‘t anything to buy. Different century, different story....

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Bookshops

Essential St. Petersburg Peter and Paul Fortress Petropavlovskaya krepost 3, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www.spbmuseum.ru. The Fortress is the cradle of the city; St Petersburg’s first settlement is now a tourist complex housing many museums and spectacular river-side views. QThe fortress is open 06:00 - 22:00. Museums are closed Wed. Russian Museum Ul. Inzhenernaya 4/2, MNevsky pr.,

tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www.rusmuseum.ru. A dazzling journey from thirteenth century icons to the cream of Russian avant-garde spread across four stunning palaces.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue.

State Hermitage Museum Dvortsovaya nab. 34 (en-

trance from Dvortsovaya pl.), MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 710 90 79, www.hermitage.ru. The exquisite museum’s three million items make it one of the most highly esteemed and unmissable art galleries in the world.QOpen 10:30 - 18:00, Sun 10:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon.

Park Inn Pribaltiyskaya A-3, Ul. Korablestroiteley 14, MPrimorskaya, tel. (+7) 812 329 26 26, www. parkinn.com. St. Petersburg’s largest hotel boasts 1200 rooms in one of the most scenic locations, on the Gulf of Finland, on Primorskaya. The hotel’s extensive facilities even include Indoor Aquapark with water slides and splash pools to get wet in. Q 1200 rooms PTHAUFLGKDCW hhhh Park Inn Pulkovskaya Pl. Pobedy 1, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 740 39 00, www.pulkovskaya.parkinn.ru. Located ten minutes away from the airport, don’t be intimidated by the size of this large hotel (7 floors, 840 rooms), inside it’s really friendly and accessible with diverse facilities and great restaurants.Q840 rooms. PHAFLGKDCW hhhh

Bridges St. Petersburg is one of the only cities in the world that is split in two every night from April to December as each of its 13 bridges is opened. The opening usually starts around 01:30/02:00 and they are then closed again around 05:00. Watching the show from the banks of the Neva with a bottle of champagne is an essential (and free) St. Petersburg experience.

Getting There

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Hotels Hostel Griboedova 71 D-4, Ul. Kaznacheyskaya 6/13,

MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 69 48, www.griboedova71.ru. Bright new hostel located steps away from the metro on a canal right in the heart of Dostoevsky territory.

Park Inn Nevsky E-3, Nevsky pr. 89/Ul. Goncharnaya

4, MPl. Vosstanya, tel. (+7) 812 406 73 10, www. parkinn.com. The most central of Park Inn’s three hotels and completly new and shiny both inside and out.Q270 rooms. PJHAGK

Moscow In Your Pocket

Dom Inostrannoi Knigi (House of Foreign Books)

D-3, Kuznetsky Most 18/7, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 628 20 21, www.mdk-arbat.ru. This is a floor to ceiling library of English-language books, ranging from Russian travel guides to recent fiction and paperbacks. Guidebooks and volumes about art fill the room. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat. 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00 PA

Gileya B-3, Moscow Museum of Modern Art, Tverskoy bul. 9, MTverskaya, www.gileia.org. Opening on the 5th of July. For those looking for unusual art books to slam on the coffee table or swoon over for hours. Suitably located inside the Moscow Museum of Modern Art, this arty shop has books in several languages and a number of unique handmade limited edition works. Q Open 12:00 - 20:00. Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed last Mon of the month. Respublika A-1, Ul. 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya 10,

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Trains from leave from Moscow’s Leningradsky station and generally arrive at Moskovsky station, which is in the middle of Nevsky prospekt, the city’s main street. The fastest way to get there is by Sapsan (around four hours) although there are also dozens of night trains that are considerably cheaper.

Bookhunter E-3, Krivokolenny per. 9, bldg. 1, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 623 03 22, www.bookhunter.ru. Located a short walk from the Chisty Prudy metro station, this handy little bookstore is chock full with books. Fiction from around the world, history and psychology are all wellcovered subjects. The store also has a wide selection of English teaching material and large coffee table art and design books. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A

Sharf Hotel C-2, PS, Maly pr. 16, MSportivnaya, tel.

(+7) 812 324 77 74, www.sharfhotel.ru. Hotel Sharf actually rents whole apartments at monthly rates. Ideal for business executives and families who need to stay for monthly periods, the apartments are spacious with separate bedrooms, and there is small park nearby. Unique services include on call doctor, nanny and baker for those special occasions.Q PALGKW

Sokos Hotel Olympia Garden D-4, Bataisky per. 3A, MTekhnologichesky In., tel. (+7) 812 335 22 70, www. sokoshotels.fi. For the seasoned business traveler looking for a hotel that does things right, the Olympic Garden is a breath of fresh air - heck even the matrasses were designed using NASA technology.Q348 rooms PJHA6UI� FLEGKDXW hhhh Sokos Hotel Vasilievsky C-3, 8-ya Liniya 11-13, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 90, www. sokoshotels.fi. The third hotel in St. Petersburg from the Sokos group brings yet more Finnish style and sophistication over on tranquil and historic Vasilevsky island. Q255 rooms PHA6UFLGKDW hhhh Sokos Hotel Palace Bridge C-3, VO, Birzhevoy per.

4, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 00, www. sokoshotels.fi. Gorgeous Palace Bridge hotel is a cross between a slick city warehouse conversion and palatial hotel. The downstairs lobby holds the entrance to the pride of the hotel, their Spa and Wellness world. Q324 rooms PTHA6UIFLGKDCW hhhhh

moscow.inyourpocket.com

MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 251 65 27, www.respublica.ru. The drum and bass soundtrack doesn’t make the store an attractive place to hole up with a paperback, but its a good place to buy one! This book/cd shop-meetsquirky-gift store also has an excellent selection of highquality Italian, Japanese, German and French notebooks, stationary, art and writing utensils. There is also a large selection of English-language books and monthly magazines. What’s more, you can listen to cds on headphones upstairs and then hop along to their bright pink cafe for a wee bite. Q Open 24hrs. Wi-zfi from 11:00 - 23:00 (free) PJAKW

Gifts and Souvenirs Dulevsky farfor Ul. Shcherbakovskaya 57/20, MPar-

tizanskaya, tel. (+7) 499 166 76 43, www.dulevo.ru/ shop.htm. The shop of this porcelain factory has some really nice crockery in unique designs, tons of different great tea sets designs ranging from more conservative and traditional, to 1960s inspired pieces and downright wacky modern sets. They also have a massive collection of crazy looking porcelain figurines (naturally). Q Open 10:00 - 20:30. June - September 2 - closed Sun. N

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Shops and Markets The Sunday upmarket This is not really a flea market as such as most of the people here are displaying their own designs and crafty overpriced jewellery type stuff. There are still some genuine second-handers usually hidden in there though. Look out for the lady who sells vintage European handbags and then bargain with her – seems like at the upmarket you can’t bargain, but as usual in Russia no-body has any change so in that situation, you almost certainly can. The market usually takes place every month or two, check their site for details. And if you are style junkie, bring your camera – the hipsters here are some of the most quirky and fashion forward in the city. www.sundayupmarket.ru Lianozovo The real deal. Hundreds of babushkas and other dodgy looking blokes with their wares spread out along the ground right next to a railway track. The flow of people selling all kinds of crap (one old black shoe anyone?) seems to go on for miles and the tat on display is going for pennies. If you are looking for creepy looking Soviet stuff for a handful of roubles this is the place. Just be careful to watch your bag, they are not all the most honest people up here. You need to get up here on a Saturday morning as everyone gets cleared off by the authorities later on in the day, and although they keep trying to shut the place down, Lianozovo keeps cropping up. GETTING THERE As you can imagine getting there is a bit of a mission, you need to get an elektrichka from savylovskaya and get off at a place called Mark. Cross over the railway lines and you should soon see it. Alternative designers F-3/4 Kolpachny per. 12, Kitay Gorod.You would never know this place is here from the street, and once you are inside the series of courtyards you’ll find it is still generally not very clear where everything is – basically it looks like a squat – inside and out. In the various dilapidated buildings you will find many of Moscow’s young budding designers making and selling their wares in the same place. The opening times seem to depend only on the whims of those who are squatting there, so you will just have to wander past and see for yourself if anything is going on. The crazy graffiti in the yard alone is worth the visit though.

Izmailovsky Ul. 3 Parkovaya 24, MPartizanskaya,

tel. (+7) 495 163 21 76. The market isn’t far from Izmailovo estate which was Peter the Great’s playground as a boy. This flea market is the place to go for your Soviet kitsch souvenirs and a little bit of everything else. It’s huge and rambling, filled with Russia’s best and worst salespeople. Here you’ll find matryoshki (nesting dolls), the laquer boxes, carpets, Soviet posters, badges, tea towels and so on. Bargain hard and be friendly, some of your encounters here have the potential to be the most memorable. Follow the crowds from the Partizanskaya metro station. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00

Gorizont - Valenki Factory Shop 2-oy Kozhevnicheskiy per 12, MPaveletskaya, tel. 495 645 84 64, www. gorizont.org. Valenki are large felt boots that are as synonymously Russian as kilts are Scottish. Essentially designed for walking about the Russian countryside in the snow, in recent years they have become quite a fashion accessory and this factory shop has a great collection of valanki with all kinds of groovy designs embroidered on them. The baby versions make especially nice souvenirs and you can also pick up slipper versions of the felt boots to wear around the house and felt hats to ware in the sauna. QOpen 09:30 - 20:30. A moscow.inyourpocket.com

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Shopping

Vladimir Mikhailov B-2, Galeria Akter, ul. Tverskaya

16/2, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 213 30 18, www. vmikhailov.ru. For lovers of ancient fine Russian jewellery made with the tastes of Russia’s lavish old Orthodoxy in mind a visit to this shop is well worth the time. As well as intricate jewellery, Mikhailov also produces elaborate candlestick holders, decorative items and baroque Easter eggs in the finest traditions of Orthodox art. Also in trade centre Tretyakov Plaza, ul. Nikolskaya 10 (metro Kitay-gorod). QOpen 10:00 - 21:00.

Markets Dorogomilovsky Ul. Mozhaisky Val 10, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495 249 55 53. Covering almost an entire city block, this inner-city market just five minutes from Kievskaya and around the back of the Evropeisky shopping centre is a find. Fresh produce including fish and seafood can be found in the covered buildings, and there’s also an array of standard Russian market goodies (plastic stuff no one needs but people seem to buy) displayed in the aqua blue booths outside. It’s neat and well attended so you can be assured that everything is ultra fresh. Q Open 07:00 - 20:00

Flowers Nothing says I love you like a nice big bunch of flowers. In Russia when making this gesture there are however several points to consider. The golden rule is to buy an odd number of flowers, even numbers are only given at funerals. Secondly as regards colour avoid yellow as this is often associated with bad luck and usually signifies a farewell (unless of course you want to send out that signal). If the message you are looking for is 100% ion then of course go for red, the darker the colour the better. Be sure to choose roses, the flower of love. Carnations on the other hand are heavily associated with Soviet holidays such as victory day and are best saved for babushkas.

Business directory Shopping Centres Evropeisky Shopping Centre Kievskaya pl. 2, MKi-

evskaya, tel. (+7) 495 921 34 44, www.evropeisky.ru. Quality restaurants and bars, saunas and health treatments, and all the European brand shops that gave the centre its very name. Bliss!QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00 PJAK

Gum D-4, Red Square, MPl. Revolyutsii, tel. (+7) 495

788 43 43, www.gum.ru. A trip here is essential - this elaborate three arcade structure with three tiers is constructed from limestone, marble and granite and was first built in the 1890s. Today it is one of the most popular tourist sights. Toilets for those in need are on the third level of the third arcade.QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PTJAK

Okhotny Ryad C-3, Maneznaya pl.1, MOkhotny Ryad. If you can find your way around in here, you‘ve made it in this town. Confusion central, this is a spawling place that has everything you need, it just takes a long time to find it! The food court is perfect for when you‘ve done the Kremlin and want a snack.QOpen 11:00 - 23:00 PJALKSW

Globus Gourmet E-3, Ul. Pokrovka 2, tel. (+7) 495 662

66 03, www.stk-retail.ru. Picture a downscaled version of Harrod’s Food Hall and this would be a close approximation. The downstairs wine storage is worthy of special mention, all wines are kept at 17 degrees. Prices reflect that most goods are imported, however, if you are looking for parmesan cheese, soy milk or any other hard to find items even in Moscow, it will be more than likely on a Globus Gourmet shelf. Q Open 24 hrs. PA

Gum Gastronom D-4, Red Square, MOkhotny Ryad,

tel. (+7) 495 620 30 10, w w w.gum.ru. Even the handles of the baskets are leather padded for your shopping comfort. The salad bar has an amazing range of good value, fresh chef-crafted salads. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00 PTALK www.7cont.ru. This chain of gourmet supermarkets have a good range of fresh foodstuff and imported treats - the one on the Arbat has a great selection. They also have a very good delivery service for those who don't have time to tour the aisles, nevermind carry sacks of potatoes up the stairs. QOpen 24hrs. PA

Mostsvettorg A-2, Ul. Krasina 9, bldg. 2, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 505 40 92, moscvettorg.ru. A great and central location to pick up flowers that are sold at prices far more reasonable than usual. Roses in particular are much cheaper here than in other street -side stalls. Also at ul. Novoslobodskaya 14/19, bldg. 8 (metro Novoslobodskaya). QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. N Moscow In Your Pocket

ants and consultants Center of Economic Planning Kutuzovsky pr. 12,

MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495 648 58 38, english.ecoplan. ru. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. N Deloitte A-1, Ul. Lesnaya 5, bldg. B, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 787 06 00, www.deloitte.com. Ernst and Young E/F-6, Sadovnicheskaya nab. 77, bld. 1, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 705 97 00, www. ey.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. KPMG Presnenskaya nab. 10, complex Bashnya na naberejnoy, block C, MMezhdunarodnaya, tel. 495 937 44 77, www.kpmg.ru. Price Water House Coopers F-7, Kosmodamianskaya nab. 52, bldg. 5, MPaveletskaya, tel. 495 967 60 00, www.pwc.com. SHR Consulting Bolshoi Drovyanoi per. 6, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 748 55 51, www.shrc.ru.QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Banks HSBC

Supermarkets

Sedmoi (7th) Continent tel. (+7) 495 777 77 79,

Flower-shop.ru F-6, Kosmodamianskaya nab. 40/42, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 626 44 14, www.flowers-2-russia.com. As well as a shop where you can pick things out yourself, they also work online and can deliver flowers to anywhere in Moscow and also deliver abroad too. Thankfully the site is in English so you don’t need to simply rely on the pictures. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Delivery is free during working hours of the shop. A

Moscow is Russia’s business capital and countless businessmen have lost and made millions in this town.

Yeliseevsky Ul. Tverskaya 14, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 07 60. The flag shop of nineteenth century gourmet merchandiser and importer Paul Yeliseevsky, is now home to a wonderful shop. The grand interior has been restored to its pre-revolutionary glamour with gold bolsters, mirrors and sculptured mouldings. The ceilings are as high as a theatre. Stocked here, at reasonable prices are a variety of imported chocolates, biscuits and other foodie gifts as well as stocked seafood and cheese deli counters. There’s a wine room, stocked with wines from around the world and champers, as well as a souvenirs room out the back. The atmosphere is improved by such surroundings and the staff don’t follow you around like you’re about to pocket something. Q Open 24hrs. PJA

Skolko stoit? = How much is it? moscow.inyourpocket.com

Bank B-6, Ul. Ostozhenka 25, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 645 45 45, www. hsbc.ru. Also at ul. Malaya Nikitskaya 2/1 (metro Arbatskaya). QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

Business clubs Association of European Businesses , w w w. aebrus.ru.

Finnish-Russian Chamber of Commerce, www.

finruscc.fi.

German Economic Club (Verband der Deutschen Wirtschaft ), www.vdw.ru. The American Chamber of Commerce , www.

amcham.ru.

The British Business Club, www.britishclub.ru. The Moscow Irish Business Club, www.moscow-

irishclub.ru.

The Russo-British Chamber of Commerce , www.

rbcc.com.

Exhibition Centres All Russian Exhibition Centre (VVTs) Prospekt Mira, VVTs, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 554 3400, www.

vvcentre.ru. Q Exhibition halls are open from 10:00-19:00 Crocus Expo Trade and exhibition centre Crocus City,

65-66 km Moscow Ring Road (MKAD),M Myakininskayatel. (+7) 495 727 26 26, www.crocusexpo.ru. Expocentre Krasnopresnenskaya nab.,14, MDelovoy Tsentr, tel. (+7) 495 795 37 99, www.expocentr.ru. Sokolniki Culture & Exhibition Centre 5th Luchevoy Prosek, MSokolniki, tel. (+7) 495 995 05 95, www.exposokol.ru.Q Hours of free bus: from 09:30 to 19:00. World Trade Centre Moscow (WTC) Krasnopresnenskaya nab.,12, MDelovoy Tsentr, tel. (+7) 495 258 12 12, www.wtcmoscow.ru.

Interpreting/Translating Elan Languages Business centre Petrovsky, ul.

Nizhnaya 11, bldg. 1, office 28, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 627 57 34, www.elanlanguages.ru. Translating, interpreting and training of staff for working in a Russian or foreign professional environment. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. N

moscow.inyourpocket.com

55

Hiring and firing: the basics Common wisdom is that Russia’s labour law contains various elements from the communist past and is biased towards employees. Marshall Zhukov already appeared to say that nothing is what it seems, and would he still be alive he may have pointed out the sometimes ambiguous nature of the relationship between company and employee as a good example of this. To start with, there is the written employment agreement (трудовой договор). It is not necessary to conclude one, but if you do not do so within three days of the start of employment, all the standard rules of the Labour Code (трудовой кодекс) will apply. That means: no probationary period, unlimited period, statutory amount of vacation days. It also means: no golden parachute. In addition, employing someone for a limited period is only possible if the work has a temporary character. And firing someone within a probationary period is only possible if you have a good reason for it: the employee must be notified about it 3 days before the termination date and he can appeal against the decision in court. The employer should also receive the Labour Booklet (трудовая книжка) from the employee and keep it in a very safe place (actually, in a real safe). The labour booklet is a kind of port in which the start and termination of all employments and promotions are recorded. Terminating someone for not properly fulfilling their job seems difficult. There have to be two violations and the first one must have resulted in a formal written warning. In order to have violated something, there must first be a very detailed description of rules which the employee has to follow. Terminating someone is also possible in the case of liquidation of a company. Many acquisitions and internal reorganisations in Russia are structured as asset deals. A new company is set up which takes over the activities of the entity of the sellers, which is then put into liquidation. The new company, in that case, is allowed to cherry-pick the employees: only those who are considered “key” get an offer. But the most obvious escape hatch for a company to lay off individual employees lays somewhat hidden in the twisted logic of the staff list: a list with everyone’s functions on it and their corresponding salaries. Usually this list is “made up” in the dungeons of a company’s ing department. The management states what salary has been agreed with an employee. This sum tends to change as people get promoted and often there is not one person in a company with the same salary. This means that all employees have to have different functions in the staff list. What to do when there no longer seems to be common ground with an employee, is to simply declare that this function will be terminated. A lay-off must be announced two months in advance, and the employee is allowed a severance payment of one (average over the last 12 months) monthly salary. When the employee can demonstrate he does not have new a job yet, which has to be confirmed by the Employment Authority (служба занятости населения), he can get two additional monthly salaries. Obviously, these quite spartan provisions define the basis for negotiations between employer and employee. When there is a mutual understanding that a termination has become inevitable, a lump sum payment of 3 months salary is a good deal for both sides. This is usually formalised in a termination agreement. An employee with a job offer at hand will gladly use the two weeks notice and move to another job. Written in collaboration with BVDM tax and legal services. For more detailed information, visit their website www.bvdmlaw.nl or call 495 935 7621.

August - September 2010

56

Expat

Business directory Exhibitions Date Exhibition 27.08 – 05.09 Moscow International Automobile Salon 02.09 – 05.09 Flowers 11.09 – 15.09 Junwex - Jewellery Forum 14.09 – 17.09 Household Expo 2010 Goods, dinnerware and housewares 14.09 – 17.09 World Food 21.09 – 23.09 Mibexpo - Meetings Industry and Business Travel 27.09 – 30.09 Mosshoes – Footwear, bags and accessorise

Venue Crocus VVTS VVTS Crocus Expocentr Crocus Crocus

Printing and Copying Copy Max A-1, Ul. 2-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya 16,

MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 933 09 00, www. copy-max.ru.QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. I-on Cyber Centre C-3, Ul. Tverskaya 7 (Central Telegraph Off ice), MOkhotny Ryad, w w w.i-on. ru. Not only a store full of computer gadgets but this chain of over 80 shops all over Moscow can also print documents.

Real Estate At Home Network Ul. Skakovaya 17, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 950 57 58, www.athome-network.com/ ru. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00.

Beatrix C-3, Ul. Tverskaya 12, bldg. 9, office 95, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 232 32 22, www.beatrix.ru. QOpen 09:30 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. N Evans Maly Palashevsky per. 6, bldg 1, floor 4, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 232 67 03, www.evans.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. A Four Squares C-2, Ul. Bolshaya Dmitrovka 32, bldg. 7, 3rd floor, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 55 72, www.foursquares.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. N Intermark Savills Kropotkinsky per. 7, bld.1, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 495 502 95 53, www.intermarksavills. ru. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. A Prime Realty and Relocation A-2, Per. Krasina 16, bldg. 1, MMayakovskaya, tel. 787 05 51, www.primerelo.com. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Pulford Ul. Bolshaya Gruzinskaya 20, off. 76, MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 495 232 31 58. Call before visiting the office. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. N

Recruitment G-nuis F-5, Ul. Goncharnaya 27, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 787 22 19, www.g-nuis.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00

Tax and legal Services Bauke van der Meer Tax & Legal Services C-6,

Ul. Bol. Yakimanka 31/18, off 203B, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 495 935 76 21, www.bvdmeer.nl. Tax and Legal Services from long experienced and well respected Dutch law firm. Deal with all kind of corporate and personal legal issues as well as various areas of Russian/ International ta xation issues. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

57

International schools For students, school children and parents alike, September 01 is one of the biggest days of the year. It’s the first one of the new school year and in true Russian fashion, the celebration is always big. Known across the country as the Day of Knowledge (Dyen Znanye) the first day back is a festive day with parties, presents, and celebrations. Moscow has a large and active expat community. To keep in touch with what’s going on, visit the useful site, www.expat.ru. If you would like your group to feature here or have an expat event you think we should know about, send your details to [email protected].

Charities Marias Children , www.mariaschildren.ru. Wonderful

children’s charity that helps orphans, disabled children and street kids find their feet through art, play, education and responsibility. Moscow Animals www.moscowanimals.org Works to rehome street dogs and cats and also provides a range of services and advice on exporting and importing animals from Russia and vetinary recommendations. Nastenka Foundation A children’s cancer hospital ed by the American Women’s Organization. www. awomoscow.org United Way Russia [email protected] – A Russian charitable organization started up by an American charity organisation, ing various community programmes with the help of international and Russian companies with various fundraising events throughout the year.

Cable and Satellite TV Sky Satellite Television tel. +7 903 203 19 15,

skysatelliteuk.com. At last Sk y T V has landed in Russia - meaning you’ll never have to watch another badly dubbed Hollywood film or episode of Russian Big Brother ever again.

Expat s

Anglo-American School Ul. Beregovaya 1,

MSokol, tel. (+7) 495 231 44 88, www.aas.ru. Independent Anglo-American School for children from four years of age up through to the twelth grade. Internatinal curriculum and college preparation program which can be supplemented with International Baccalaureate certificates or a full IB Diploma. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. A

Baby club Trekhprudny per. 11/13, bldg. 2, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 973 35 90, www.baby-club. ru. Baby club has three levels. One is for the real ‘babies’ (i.e eight months to two years old), the second for those aged two to four and the final level is aimed at those from ages four to seven. Classes run seven days a week between 10:00 and 20:00 and are taught in a bi-lingual environment. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. British International School Ul. Bolshaya Akademi-

cheskaya, 24, MVoykovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 987 44 86, www.bismoscow.com. This famous school has been in Moscow for 15 years and has 8 different locations.They follow the English national curriculum from ages 3-18 and offer excellent school trips and extra-curricular activities and a very international atmosphere. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.

Montessori School Nezhinskaya ul. 1, bldg 2 (Kutu-

zovskaya Riviera compound), MSlavyansky Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 971 86 26, www.mosmontessori.ru. The only pre-school in Moscow officially running according to the Montessori system. Children are taught and play within a bi-lingual background. Situated inside a private gated community it has plenty of well-tended outdoor space. QOpen 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

Australian and New Zealand Social Group (AUSKI)

P’tit Cref B-4, Bolshoi Afanasyevsky per. 41, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 697 20 06, www.ptitcref.ru. The first tri-lingual kindergarten in Russia offers Russian, French and English classes in a bright and cheery atmosphere. The school has numerous classrooms for fun, games, resting and of course milk and cookies. Classes are taught by native speaker teachers.QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. A

Hauspostille (German-Language Community Newsletter) , [email protected]. International Women’s Club , www.iwcmoscow.ru. Moscow Dragons Rugby Club , www.moscowdrag-

The English International School (EIS) Zeleny prospect 66a, MNovogireevo, tel. (+7) 495 301 21 04, www.englishedmoscow.com. English day school for kids aged 3 all the way up to 18. They follow the English curriculum and offer IGCSEs and A-levels and preparation for studying in the UK. The main focus of the school is on languages, art, music, IT and sport. QOpen 08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

American Women’s Organisation , www.awomos-

cow.org.

, [email protected]. British Women’s Club , www.bwcmoscow.co.uk. Dutch Community , www.nederlandseverenigingmoskou.ru. Dutch Women’sClub (The Tulips) , aleiddouma@live. nl, nvm.redroxx.eu/tulpen/.

onsrfc.com.

Moscow International Choir , moscow.international. [email protected].

Moskva Accueil (French Women’s Club) , www.

site-moskva-accueil.org.

Nigerian Community Russia , nigeriancommunity@ yahoo.com, www.nigeriancommunity.ru.

Rotary Club Moscow International Shlyuzovaya

nab. 6/1, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 926 397 26 87, www.rcmi.ru. Swedish Women’s Educational Association , www.swea.org.

Moscow In Your Pocket

moscow.inyourpocket.com

moscow.inyourpocket.com

August - September 2010

expat Expat Football llianz ROSNO Expat Football League MGIMO A University and Lokomotive Stadium, www.moscowfootball.com. ‘Moscow Over-30 Expat Football League’s main goals are to facilitate an enjoyable, non-injurious, gentlemen’s competition amongst athletically and socially fit individuals who refuse to grow-up.’ The league is open to all enthusiasts although you should be aware that apparently the standard is very high and it is aimed at those who will be in Moscow a while. Adding to the fun post-match beers and burgers are included. [email protected] for details on how to . Games take place on weekends at MGIMO stadium (pr. Vernadskogo 76, metro Yugo-Zapadnaya), during winter season at Lokomotov stadium (ul. Bolshaya Cherkizovskaya 125A, metro Cherkizovskaya). Summer season runs through end of October.

International Cultural Centres Goethe Institute/DAAD Leninsky prospekt 95a, tel.

(+7) 495 936 24 57, www.goethe.de. House of Foreign Literature F-4/5, Ul. Nikoloyamskaya 1, MTaganskaya, This building is the main hub for cultural insitutues in Moscow and houses the following: American Centre tel. (+7) 495 777 65 30, www.amc. ru. Q Open 10:00 - 20:00. Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. British Council tel. (+7) 495 287 18 28, www.britishcouncil.org/russia. Canadian Centre tel. (+7) 495 915 37 52, www.studycanada.ca/russia. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Le Centre culturel Francais tel. (+7) 495 915 79 74, www.ccf-moscou.ru. Neso Russia tel. (+7) 495 915 72 36, www.nesorussia. com.QOpen 15:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Language Schools Cref E-2, Ul. Malaya Lubyanka 16, 2nd entrance, 3rd floor, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 623 57 57, www. cref.ru. English, French and Russian lessons are all part of the Cref language program. Their Russian program utilises their own textbooks which are designed to include cultural aspects as well as the grammar. There is a general Russian course, Business Russian and also intensive and summer courses. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:30 - 17:30. Closed Sun. A Liden and Denz Language Centre Gruzinsky per 3,

entr. 6, office 181, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 254 49 91, www.lidenz.ru. Liden & Denz Language Centre Moscow is thankfully located in the centre, not far from Belorusskaya metro. They enjoy a ground floor location in the same building as the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, so behave! In of facilities and ethos, this is a modern language school with up-to-date classrooms, and all the accoutrements that can assist students. Dvd gear is all classrooms and there’s also wireless and flat screen internet workstations. Students can study in groups, of which the minimum length is one week with a maximum of ten students or learners in one class. Individual classes also available. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

health & Lifestyle Russian Linguistic Centre A-4, Khlebniy per. 19B,

5th floor, MArbatskaya, tel. 695 33 40, www.rlc-rus. ru. Russian for foreigners taught at all levels and ages. They are particularly noteworthy for holding contemporary themed discussion groups and for organising excursions. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A

Moving and Relocations Allied Pickfords Varshavskoe Shosse 127a, MYuzhnaya, tel. (+7) 495 796 93 25, www.alliedpickfords.ru. Corstjens Worldwide Movers Group Otkritoye Shosse 48A, 3rd floor, MUlitsa Podbelskogo, tel. (+7) 495 411 96 20, www.corstjens.com. World Wide Company who work for leading multinationals, embassies, government institutions and private individuals.QOpen 09:30 - 18:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Eolia, tel. +( 7) 905 551 71 49, www.eolia-relocation. ru. Eolia offers relocation services, with the extra benefit of a social and cultural adaptation program, to corporate clients and private individuals moving to a new country. Everything from home to business and lifestyle is taken care of.

Religious Services Big Choral Synagogue E-4, Bol. Spasoglinischevsky

per., MKitay Gorod.

Evangelische Emmausgemeinde Moskau Pr. Ver-

nadskogo 103, bldg. 3, MYugo-Zapadnaya, tel. (+7) 495 433 22 95, www.emmausgemeinde-moskau.de. Grand Mosque Vypolzov per. 7, MProspekt Mira. International Christian Assembly Schelkovskoye Shosse 2a, MCherkizovskaya, tel. 8 962 933 35 81, icamoscow.org. Memorial Mosque on Poklonnaya Gora Ul. Minskaya 26 (Poklonnaya Gora), MPark Pobedy.

Moscow Congregation for Progressive Judaism

Ul. Volochayevskaya 14/1, MBaumanskaya. Friday night services in Russian and Hebrew start at 19:00. St. Andrew’s Anglican Church B-3, Voznesensky per 8, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 629 09 90, www. standrewsmoscow.org. Sung Eucharist on Sun at 11am, Evening Prayer daily at 18:30 exept Thu, Holy Communion on Wed at 19:00. Synagogue B-3, Bol. Bronnaya, MPushkinskaya.

Residential Complexes Pokr ovsky Hills Ul. Ber egovaya 3, M Sokol, tel. (+7) 495 229 66 00, www.hines.com.QOpen 08:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. PAL Rosinka Moscow rural, Krasnogorsky region, village Angelovo, MSkhodnenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 730 32 00, www.rosinka.ru.QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. A

Water Delivery Nestle Pure Life, tel. (+7) 495 980 59 80, www.

nestle-purelife.ru.

Looking for your nearest embassy? We have all the addresses and phone numbers listed at russia.inyourpocket.com Moscow In Your Pocket

Moscow for Kids Amusement Parks Once the snow finally melts there are plenty of ageing amusement parks full of scary rides and slow little choo choo trains to sit the kids on while you relax with an ice-cream. Gorky Park is one of the most famous places as it is has some newer faster rides that are popular with teens and plenty of smaller (and rustier…) looking ones. The park at VDNKh also has Russia’s biggest ferris wheel for those who aren’t petrified of heights. If you think your kids would have the energy for it you can spend the whole day in Izmailovo park riding donkeys, feeding ducks, playing in the various playgrounds and trying out the rides. Children in Moscow www.childreninmoscow.ru. Written by an expat parent for expat parents this is possibly the best place to find out information on everything child friendly that's going on in Moscow. Kva Kva AquaPark Yaroslavskoe shosse, 1 km from MKAD, Shopping centre XL, tel. (+7) 495 258 06 83, www.kva-kva.ru. A froggy fun adventure water world for all the family. There’s a maze of slides and waterfalls, graded between those for young kids and those that will be more popular with young teenagers. There are also several saunas for grown ups to relax. GETTING THERE: From metro VDNKH take bus N333 to the XL shopping centre. (Yaroslavskoe shosse).QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Adults 550-1500Rbl, children 0-1100Rbl. Tickets can be purchased in theatre box offices or in aquapark.KDC Moscow is the capital of Russia and so if you want your haircut whilst watching a movie, need urgent dental work, are looking for an olympic sized outdoor pool or would like to ski indoors in June, you can do it.

Beauty Salons Beauty Center Baltschug D-5, Hotel Baltschug Kempinski Moscow, Ul. Baltschug 1, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 518 97 45, www.salon-baltschug.ru. As everything else in Baltschug, this beauty salon is luxurious enough for those with the most extravagant demands. With a little help of these highly trained specialists, your hair, makeup and nails will look a million dollars at a fraction of that price. Massage, skincare treatment and aromatherapy are also available. Watch out for the 20% off happy hours.QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. PA Expat Salon A-3, Maly Patriarshy per 3,, MPushkin-

skaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 37 49, www.expatsalon.ru. Probably one of few places in Moscow where you won’t walk out with a haircut you didn’t ask for. And why is that? Well, they understand English. The full range of features on offer make their services read something like a Russian menu, from a standard hair cut in one of their state-of-the-art massage chairs to your usual mani-pedi and Thai massage. Thankfully they offer helpful, free consultations so you can decide what you need. Bookings for all services are essential. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A

Lanna Kamilina D-6, Bolshoy Tolmachevsky per 4, bldg. 1, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 953 63 05, www.lannakamilina.ru. Now celebrating 10 years of expert hairstyling. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. A

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Banyas Sandunovskie Bani D-3, Ul. Neglinnaya 14, bld. 3-7,

MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 625 46 31, www. sanduny.ru. This historic, luxurious and well kept up banya (public bath house) works wonders on the winter blues. Its original 19th century glamour has been preserved: marble columns, red carpets and golden imperial archways greet you. Both the men and women’s sections are classically designed. There are regular and VIP class bathes in both the men and women’s sections. The women’s VIP class boasts a Jacuzzi, spa services and a hair salon. Private baths are also available. QOpen Mon-Sun 8:00-22:00, box till 20:00. Regular class and VIP Men’s baths closed Tues. VIP Women’s baths and Men’s upper class closed Mon. For three hours, Women’s bath 1000Rbl, Women’s VIP bath 1500Rbl. For two hours Men’s bath 1000Rbl, Men’s upper class bath 1300Rbl, Men’s VIP bath, 1600Rbl. TJAKDC

Dental Clinics American Clinic Dental Art Ul. Druzhinnikovskaya

15, MKrasnopresnenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 790 76 39, www.dentalart.ru. Dental emergency - 24 hours. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. PTALW

European Dental Centre 1st Nikoloschepovsky per 6, bldg 1, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 933 00 02, www. emcmos.ru. Q Open 24 hrs. A US Dental Care C-3, Ul. Bolshaya Dmitrovka 7/5, bld. 2, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 933 86 86, www. usdentalcare.com.Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:0018:00. JA August - September 2010

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health & lifestyle

Drycleaning Nikko Dry Cleaners Ul. Tverskaya 16 (Gallery Ak-

ter), MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 580 35 10, www. drycleaners.ru. With thirty outlets around the whole of Moscow, you are never far from a cleaner, brighter wardrobe. Depending on the garment, they also have an express one-hour service.

Entertainment Centres Cosmik Ul. Lva Tolstogo 18, MPark Kultury, tel. ( + 7 ) 495 258 31 31, w w w.cosmik.ru. Q Op en

12:00 - 05:00.

Samolet- Bowling Ul. Presensky Val 14/1, MUlitsa 1905 Goda, tel. (+7) 495 234 18 18, www.samolet-bowling.ru. A veritable palace of entertainment. As well as bowling they also have games arcades, billiards, go-karts, karaoke and laser quest.

Fitness Clubs Orange Fitness Konny per. 4, MOktyabryskaya, tel. (+7) 495 502 91 91, www.orangefit.ru.

Petrovka Sports 1st Kolbovsky per. 4, MPushkinskaya,

tel. (+7) 495 933 87 00, www.petrovkasports.ru.

World Class 2nd Spasnolivkovsky per. 7, MOktyabrys-

kaya, tel. (+7) 495 232 17 49, www.worldclass.ru.

Hiking Hikers Club , www.hike.narod.ru. International hiking and walking group that meets for weekly walks in forests around Moscow. The next walks with meeting points and guidelines are posted on the website with the leaders details.

Medical Clinics American Medical Centres Prospekt Mira, 26, bldg

6, entrance from Grokholsky per., MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 495 933 77 00, www.amcenter.ru. Q Open 24 hours. A

European Medical Centre A-3, Spiriodonevsky per. 5, bldg. 1, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 933 66 55, www.emcmos.ru. Also at Orlovsky per. 7 (metro Pr. Mira). Doctor on call 933 66 45. Q Open 24 hrs. A GMS Clinic Ul. 2-ya Yamskaya 9, MMaryina roscha, tel. (+7) 495 781 55 77, www.gmsclinic.ru. Q Open 24 hrs. PTALW Intermed center Grokholsky per. 31, MProspect Mira, tel. (+7) 495 937 57 57, www.intac.ru. Q 24 hours. PTAU International SOS Orlovskiy per. 7, 3rd floor, MPr.

Thai Spa Seven Krasok Ul. Povarskaya 10/1, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 363 31 84, www.7krasok. ru.QThai and Balinese massages from professional Indonesian and Thai experts.

Swimming Pools Chaika B-6, Turchaninov per 3, bldg. 1, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 499 246 13 44, www.chayka-sport.ru. Easily one of Moscow’s most atmospheric (if scarily Soviet looking) swimming pools - as you can actually see the city while you swim! Chaika has two outdoor pools (one 25metre and one 50metre) surrounded by benches to chillout on if it’s not -10 outside, as well as an indoor cafe. Be aware that you will need to buy a spravka (medical certificate) at the entrance after a quick two minute examination of your feet etc before you will be allowed to swim. Q Open Mon - Sat 07:00 - 22:00, Sun 08:30 - 19:30. ission 400-600Rbl/hr, then extra 100-150Rbl for next hour. Luzhniki Nab. Lyzhnetskaya 24, MVorobevi Gori, tel.

(+7) 495 637 07 64. www.luzhniki.ru Built as the main swimming area for the Moscow 1980 olympics, this huge pool is still popular with the more professional types.Q Open 07:15 - 21:00.

Yoga Birthlight D-6, Staromonetny per. 18, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 788 13 08, www.birthlight.ru. Birthlight offers prenatal yoga, baby yoga, toddler yoga, baby swimming and aqua yoga. Highly professional UK-trained teachers lead the classes and instruction is available in Russian, English or French. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. TN Moscow Business Yoga A-7, Obolensky per. 3/1, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 985 410 36 30, www.moscowbusiness-yoga.net. Can send yoga teachers to your office, and they offer classes in Russian, English and German. Probably a much healthier way to keep the office stress-free than getting the champagne and cigars in. Classes in English every Mon at 20:45 at NYM yoga studio and every Sat at 12:00 at hotel Kempinski Baltschug. There is outdoor free Yoga every Sun at 11:00 near metro Sportivnaya, registration obligatory. QOpen 06:00 - 23:00. One lesson 450-600Rbl. N

Moscow Beaches There are plenty of sandy beaches around Moscow but the ones at Serebryany Bor are probably the cleanest. Inside the forest you’ll find the exclusive beach number 1 with sun loungers, bars and VIP cabins set alongside the river banks and a number of other private and public beaches. There are board games, ping pong tables, volleyball and of course beer. Further along the banks there’s even a nudist beach. GETTING THERE: take trolleybus 20, 21, 65 or 86 from Polezhaevskaya Metro Station.

Mira, tel. (+7) 495 937 57 60, www.internationalsos. com. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 14:00. 24 hour emergency service.

By Louise Whitworth How long have you been in Moscow? I first came to Moscow in 1995. I was working in shipping in Budapest at the time and a friend told me about an opening at Ferrero in Luxembourg. I got the job and then after a few months they asked me to go to Moscow, to help with local logistics for the development in Russia. I didn’t think twice about it and here I am! Ferrero products are everywhere in Russia now, how was the brand viewed in the beginning? Demand was overwhelming but unpredictable right from the beginning to the extent that it was almost impossible to keep up with it. At that time in Russia anything could happen and obstacles were numerous, requiring an extremely flexible approach of the entire team, but we found very quickly that there were hardly any limits in what one could do and enjoyed a rapid expansion of our business. How did you fair during the 1998 crash? The crash of the economy hit everyone really hard and we had to cut back massively, we were forced to let a lot of staff go and even I moved back to our head offices in Luxembourg for a year and a half. As you can see things did get back on their feet though, the company started expanding and now our products are very successful and in October last year our first locally produced Kinder Chocolate came off the production line in the Vladimir Oblast. What are the most popular products amongst Russians? Raffaello is by far the most popular of our products in Russia and holds the number one position in the praline segment in Russia. What is interesting about Ferrero is that it is actually a family business with a very careful philosophy. The founder spends years testing and perfecting new recipes before we decide to sell them, so you don’t see new products coming out every week – the product has to be perfect. In Russia our products have their own niche due to their quality vs. price positioning. So will there be any new products coming out soon? At the moment we are testing Rafaello ice-cream in Azbuka Vkusa stores that we hope will be very popular – I’ve tried it and I can honestly say it’s absolutely delicious! We still have a lot of products that have not yet been introduced here. In Italy for example we have the number one ice-tea brand, still made by infusion (where others are made with powder). As you can imagine it's made using basically a giant tea bag and is a great product. Unfortunately Ferrero back then decided not to launch it beyond the Italian borders and so it won't be entering into the Russian market now.

Spas Baltschug Health Club D-5, Baltschug Kempinski, Ul. Balchug 1, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 287 20 00, www.kempinski-moscow.ru.QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. Espa Ritz-Carlton, Ul. Tverskaya 3, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 225 88 88, www.ritzcarlton.com. Moscow In Your Pocket

Peter Richter is a man with a very international outlook having grown up in Belgium with a Dutch mother and a German por t, worked in Moscow for 15years for an Italian company and been married for 10 years to a Russian businesswoman. He is also the ‘ambassador’ of the Moscow branch of the international networking communi ty InterNations, which celebrates its bir thday this September and works as a logisti cs mana ger for th e world famous confectioners Ferrero.

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How did you become involved in InterNations? The InterNations idea was started several years ago in Munich and the site was launched in September 2007 as a way for expats to get together and socialise. I got invited to the community, became pretty active and made some great s when suddenly back in June 2008 they asked if I'd help organise events for the Moscow community. There were less than 400 then and I wasn’t sure if I had time to get really involved. But I got a friend on board here who is an event management professional and we were off. In September 2008 our first event saw 40 people, then we organised more sponsored events, the word spread and we got bigger and bigger. Now we have just over 3,000 and are one of the biggest and fastest growing InterNations communities in the world! Why do you think InterNations has become so popular? In Moscow networking is key, perhaps more than anywhere else in the world. The more people you know the easier it is for you to get around and get ahead. Moscow can also be a very isolating place sometimes, so getting integrated early on and meeting people that you can spend time with and share interests with is also essential. Plus it is a really nice way of broadening your horizons by getting to know people from all walks of life. I think following our birthday celebrations in September we’ll give our growth another boost. How do you juggle family and work life? The only problem with having a young child in Moscow (our son is seven), is the amount of planning you have to put into everything and the long hours that you often work. I always dedicate my whole weekend exclusively to family and try to make sure I can get home by 8pm every evening, whatever the traffic may be like. Getting around the city can be complicated time wise, but Moscow is full of great parks, theatres and circuses devoted exclusively to kids and plenty of worthwhile museums. Sunday brunch is also always a nice option as the children get their own playroom and entertainment, while the Old folks can enjoy a nice long lunch with their friends. And how do you cope with the Moscow pace of life? With Moscow it is always a love/hate relationship. There are those times when you just say, ‘ok lock me up in a padded room and let me scream it out!’ things can get so hectic and frustrating. And then times when you have to say ‘this one can only do here’. It is essential that you give yourself the occasional time out from Moscow, but at the end of the day I love this city and this country. There are so many opportunities, more than almost anywhere else in the world right now. You are constantly exposed to new challenges and adventures, finding new ways to look at things and you never know what will happen tomorrow. The city itself is a great place to be, it’s beautiful, full of history and you’re never short of something to do.

The Richter Scale Best and worst things about Moscow: The worst thing is of course the traffic, it seems to get worse all the time. Those grey winters where everything is brown and slushy are also bad. The really cold and crisp winters are much better. There are so many good things about Moscow… perhaps the unpredictability of the place, after some years things may not necessarily shock you anymore, but it’s still always challenging! Describe yourself in 3 words: I usually leave it for other people to judge! I guess I’ll say broded, flexible and adaptable – wherever I lay my hat that’s my home. Best advice anyone’s ever given you: The best managers may not necessarily have all the answers, but they do know where to find them.

August - September 2010

business directory

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August - September 2010

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metro map

Street A Akad. Sakharova pr. E-2 Al. Nevskogo per. A1 Arbat ul. A/B-4/5 Arbatskaya pl. B-4 Arbatsky Vorota pl. B-4 Armyansky per. E-3 Ashcheluev per. E-2 B Bakhrushina ul. E-6/7 Barashevsky per. F-4 Barykovsky per.A-5/B-6 Bernikovskaya nab. F-4 Birzhevaya pl. D-4 Bobrov per. E-2 Bogoyavlensky per. D-4 Bol Znamensky per. B-4 Bol. Afanasyefsky per. B-4 Bol. Bronnaya ul. B-2/3 Bol. Cherkassky per. D-3 Bol. Dmitrovka C-2/3 Bol. Golovin per. E-2 Bol. Gruzinskaya ul. A-1 Bol. Karetny per. C-1/2 Bol. Karetny per. C-1/2 Bol. Kazenny per. F-3 Bol. Kazenny per. F-4 Bol. Kiselny per. D-2 Bol. Kislovsky per. B-4 Bol. Kozikhinsky per. A-2 Bol. Kozlovsky per. F-2 Bol. Levshinsky per. A-5 Bol. Lubyanka ul. D-3 Bol. Nikitskaya ul. B-3/C-4 Bol. Ordynka ul. D-6/7 Bol. Patriarshy per. A-3 Bol. Pionerskaya ul. E-7 Bol. Polyanka ul.D-6, C-5 Bol. Putinkovsky per. B-2 Bol. Sadovaya ul. A-2 Bol. Skaya ul.E/F-1 Bol. Strochenovsky per.E-7 Bol. Sukharevsky per. E-2 Bol. Tatarskaya E-5/6 Bol. Vlasyevsky per. A-5 Bol. Vlasyevsky per. A-5 Bol. Yakimanka ul.C-6/7 Bol. Znamensky per. B-4 Bolotnaya pl. C-5 Bolotnaya ul. D-5 Borisoglebsky per. A-4 Borovitskaya pl. C-4 Boyarsky per. F-2 Brestskaya 1-ya ul. A-1 Brestskaya 2-ya ul. A-1 Brodnikov per. C-6 Bryusov per. B/C-3 Butikovsky per. B-6 C Chaplygina ul. F-2/3 Chernigovsky per. C-3 Chistoprudny bul. E-2 Chisty per. A-5 D Daev per. E-2 Delegatskaya ul. C-1 Denezhny per. A-5 Derbenevskaya ul. F-7 Dobryninsky 1-y per.D-7 Dobryninsky 4-y per.D-7 Dolgorukovskaya ul. B-1 Dubininskaya ul. E-7 Durova ul. E-1 E Eliseevsky per. B/C-3 Ermolaevsky per. A-2/3 Ermolaevsky per. A-2/3 Eropkinsky per. A-5/6 F Fadeeva ul. Faleevsky per.

A/B-1 D-5

Filipovsky per. B-4/5 Frunzenskaya 1-ya ul.A-7 Frunzenskaya 2-ya ul.A-7 Frunzenskaya nab.A/B-7 Fucheka ul. A-2 Furmanny per. F-2/3 G Gagarinsky per. A-5 Gasheka ul A-2 Gazetny per. D-4 Georgievsky per. C-3 Giryarovskogo ul. E-1 Glazovsky per. A-5 Glinishchevsky per. C-3 Gogolevsky bul. B-4/5 Golutvinsky 1-y per. C-6 Golutvinsky 2-y per. C-6 Golutvinsky 3-y per. C-6 Golutvinsky 4-y per. C-6 Goncharnaya nab. F-6 Goncharnaya ul. F-6 Goncharny proezd F-6 Granatny per. A-3 I Ilyinka ul. Ipatyevsky per. Ivanovsky per.

D-4 D/E-4 E-4

K Kadyshevskaya nab. C-5 Kadyshevsky 1-y per. D-5 Kadyshevsky 2-y per. D-5 Kadyshevsky 3-y per. D-5 Kadyshevsky tupik D-5 Kalanchevsky tupik F1 Kalashny per. B-4 Kaloshin per. A-4/5 Kaluzhskaya pl. C-7 Kamergersky per. C-3 Karetny Ryad ul. C-1/2 Kazachy 1-y per. D-6 Kazachy 2-y per. D-7 Kazansky per. C-7 Khlebny per. A-4 Khokhlovskay pl. F-3 Khoromny tupik F-2 Khrushchevsky per.A/B-5 Khrustalny per. D-4 Khvostov 1-y per. C-6 Khvostov 2-y per. C-6 Kitaigorodsky proezd E-4 Klimentovsky per. D-5 Kolobovsky 1-y per. C-2 Kolobovsky 2-y per.C/D-2 Kolobovsky 3-y per. D-2 Kolokolnikov per. D/E-2 Kolymazhny ul. B-4/5 Komissariatsky per. E-5 Kompozitorskaya ul. A-4 Komsomolskaya pl. F-1 Komsomolsky pr. A-7 Koptelsky 1-y per. E-1 Korobeynikov per. B-6 Korovy Val ul. C/D-7 Kostyansky per. E-2 Kotelnicheskaya nab. F-6 Kozhevnicheskaya ul. F-7 Krapivensky per. C-2 Krasina per. F-7 Krasina ul. A-2 Krasno-Prudny per. F-1 Krasno-Vorot. pr. F-2 Krasny Vorota pl. F-2 Kremlevskaya nab. D-4 Krestovozdvizhensky B-4 Krestovozdvizhensky B-4 Krivoarbatsky per. A-4/5 Kropotkinsky per. A-6 Krymsky proezd A/B-6 Krymsky Val ul. B/C-7 Kursovoy per. B-5/6 Kuznetsky most ul. D-3 L

Moscow In Your Pocket

Lavrushinsky per. D-5 Lebyazhy per. C-5 Lenivka ul. C-5 Leontyevsky per. B-3 Lermontovskaya pl. F-2 Letnikovskaya ul. F-7 Lopukhinsky per. B-5 Lubyanskaya pl. D-3 Lubyansky proezd D/E-3 Luchnikov per. E-3 Lukov per. E-2 Lva Tolstogo ul. A-7 Lyapin per. F-3 M Makarenko ul. F-3 Mal. Bronnaya ul. B-2/3 Mal. Dimitrovka ul. B-1/2 Mal. Golovin per. E-2 Mal. Karetny per. C-1/2 Mal. Kazenny per. F-4 Mal. Kislovsky per. B-4 Mal. Kozikhinsky per. B-2 Mal. Levshinsky per. A-6 Mal. Likhov per. C-1/2 Mal. Lyubanka ul. D-3, Mal. Malchanovka ul. A-4 Mal. Nikitskaya A-3 Mal. Ordynka D-5/6/7 Mal. Patriarshy per. A-3 Mal. Polyanka ul. C-6 Mal. Poryvaemoy ul. F-1 Mal. Rzhevsky per. A-4 Mal. Sukharevskaya pl.E-1 Mal. Sukharevsky per. D-2 Mal. Tatarsky per. E-6 Mal. Tolmachevsky per.C-5 Mal. Vlasyevsky per. A-5 Mal. Yakimanka ul. C-5/6 Mal. Zlatoustinsky per. E-3 Mal. Znamensky per. B-4 Mamonovsky per. B-2 Manezhnaya ul. C-4 Mansurovsky per. A-5/6 Maronovsky per. C-7 Maroseyka ul. E-3 Mashkova ul. F-2/3 Meshchanskaya ul. D-1 Milyutinsky per. E-2/3 Mira pr. E-1 Mokhovaya ul. C-4 Molochny per. B-6 Moskvoretskaya ul. D-4 Myasnitskaya ul. E-3 Myasnitsky per. F-2 N Narodnaya ul. F-6 Neglinnaya ul. D-2/3 Nikitsky bul. B3/4 Nikitsky per. C-3/4 Nikitsky Vorota pl. B-3 Nikoloyamskaya ul. F-5 Nikolskaya ul. C/D-4 Nikolsky per. D-4 Nizh. Kiselny per. B-4 Nizh. Kislovsky per. B-4 Nov. Basmannaya ul. F-2 Novaya pl. D-3 Novinsky bul. A-5 Novokrymsky proezd A-6 Novokuznetskaya ul. E-6 Novy Arbat ul. A/B-4 O Obolensky per. A-7 Obydensky 1-y per. B-5 Obydensky 2-y per. B-5 Obydensky 3-y per. B-5 Ogorodny Slobody per. Okhotny Ryad ul. C-3 Olimpiysky pr. D-1 Orlikov per. F-1/2 Oruzheiny per. B-1/2 Ostozhenka ul. A-6/B-5 Ovchinnikovskaya nab.D-5

Ovchinnikovsky per. E-5 Ozerkovskaya nab. E-5/6 Ozerkovsky per. E-6 P Paveletskaya pl. E-7 Pechatnikov per. D/E-2 Petro-Pavlovsky per. F-4 Petrovka ul. C-2/3 Petrovsky bul. C/D-2 Petrovsky Vorota pl. C-2 Pevchesky per. F-4 Plotnikov per. A-5 Podgorskaya nab. E/F-5 Podkolokolny per. E/F-4 Podkopaevsky per. F-4 Podsosensky per. F-3/4 Pokrovka ul. E/F-3 Pokrovsky bul. F-3/4 Pokrovsky Vorota pl. F-3 Pomerantsev per. A-6 Posledny per. D-2 Potapovsky per. E-3 Povarskaya ul. A/B-4 Pozharsky per. B-5/6 Prechistenka ul. B-5 Prechistenskaya nab.C-5 Prechistensky per. A-5 Prechistensky Vorota. B-5 Prosvirin per. E-2 Pushkarev per. D-2 Pushkinskaya nab. B-7 Pushkinskaya pl. B-2 Pyatnitskaya ul. D-5/6/7 Pyzhevsky per. D-6 R Rakhmanovsky per. C-3 Raushskaya nab. D/E-5 Raushsky 1-y per. D-5 Raushsky 2-y per. E-5 Raushsky per. E-5 Revolutsy pl. C/D-3 Romanov per. C-3/4 Rozhdestvenka ul. D-2/3 Rozhdestvensky bul. D-2 Runovsky per. E-5 Rybnikov per. E-2 Rybny per. D-4 S Sadovaya-KaretnayaB-1 Sadovaya-KudrinskayaA-2 Sadovnicheskaya nab. D-5 Sadovnicheskaya ul. D-5 Sadovnichesky pr. E-5 Samotechnaya pl. D-1 Samotechny 1-y per. C-1 Samotechny 2-y per. C-1 Samotechny 3-y per. C-1 Sandunovsky per. D-3 Sechenovsky per. A-5/6 Seliverstov per. E-2 Serafimovicha ul. C-5 Serebryany per. F-4 Serpukhovskaya pl. D-7 Shchepkina ul. D-1 Shchetinsky per. D-7 Shchipok ul. D-7 Shlyuzovaya nab. F-7 Shvedsky tupik B-3 Sivtsev Vrazhek per. A-2 Skatertny per. A/B-4 Slavyanskaya pl. E-4 Smolenskaya ul. A-5 Sofiskaya nab. C/D-5 Solyanka ul. E/F-4 Solyansky proezd E-4 Spiridonovka ul. A-3 Spiridonovsky per. A-3 Sred. Karetny per. C-2 Sred. Kislovsly per. B-4 Sred. Ovchinnikovsky E-5 Sredn. Karetny per. C-2 Sretenka ul. E-1/2 Sretensky bul. E-2

Staraya pl. E-4 Starokonushenny per. A-4 Staromonetny per. C-5 Staropimenovsky per. B2 Starosadsky per. E-3/4 Starovaganikovsky B-4 Stoleshnikov per. C-3 Stolovy per. A-4 Strastnoy bul. C-2 Stremyanny per. E-7 T Teatralnaya pl. C-3 Teatralny proezd D-3 Timura Frunze ul. A-6/7 Trekhprudny per. A/B-2 Triumfalnaya pl. A-2 Troitskaya ul. D-1 Troitsky 1-y per. D-1 Troitsky 2-y per. D-1 Trubnaya pl. D-2 Trubnaya ul. D-2 Tsvetnoy bul. D-1/2 Turchaninov per. A/B-6 Turgenevskaya pl. E-2 Tverskaya pl. C-3 Tverskaya ul. B-2/3, C-3 Tverskoy bul. B-3 U Ulansky per. E/F-2 Uspensky per. B/C-2 Ustyinskaya nab. E-5 Ustyinsky proezd E-5 V Valovaya ul. D/E-7 Varvarka ul. D/E-4 Vasilyevskaya ul. A-1/2 Vasnetsova per. D-1 Vetoshny per. D-4 Vishnyakovsky per. D-6 Volkhonka ul. B/C-5 Volkonsky 1-y per. C/D-1 Volkonsky 2-y per. C/D-1 Vorontsova ul. F-4 Vorontsovo pole ul. F-4 Vospitatelny proezd E-4 Vozdvizhenka ul. B/C-4 Voznesensky per. B/C-3 Vsekhsvyatsky per. B-5 Vsevolozhsky per. A-5 Y Yakimanskaya nab. C-5 Yakimansky per. C-7 Yakovoapostolny per. F-3 Yauzskaya ul. F-4/5 Yauzsky bul. F-4 Z Zabelina ul. E-4 Zachyetevsky 1-y B-5 Zachyetevsky 2-y B-5 Zachyetevsky 3-y B-5 Zatsepa ul. D/E-7 Zatsepsky Val ul. E-7 Zhitnaya ul. C/D-7 Zhukovskogo ul. F-2/3 Znamenka ul. B/C-4 Zoologicheskaya ul. A-2 Zubovsky bul. A-6 Zubovsky proezd A-6 Zvonarsky per. D-2 Ul. – Ulitsa – Street Per. – Pereulok – Lane Pr. – Prospekt – Prospect Sq. – Ploschad – Square Dor. – Doroga – Road Bul. –Bulvar – Boulevard Al. – Alleya – Alley Rek. – Reka/i – River Nab. – Naberezhnaya Embankment

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