Rinoa Heartilly Duster 2l1i5w
This document was ed by and they confirmed that they have the permission to share it. If you are author or own the copyright of this book, please report to us by using this report form. Report 3i3n4
Overview 26281t
& View Rinoa Heartilly Duster as PDF for free.
More details 6y5l6z
- Words: 2,647
- Pages: 9
1
Rinoa Heartilly duster (plus bonus pattern: arm warmers)
Final Fantasy And All Respective Names are Trademark & © of Square Co., Ltd, 1997, 1998.
Index
Information about the pattern
p.2
Pattern for duster
p.3
Colourwork chart
p.7
Extra written-out instructions
p.8
Bonus pattern: arm warmers
p.9
Final Fantasy, Rinoa Heartilly and all respective names are Trademark & © of Square Co., Ltd 1997, 1998. Pattern by Medeia Designs, February 2012 (medeiadesigns.blogspot.com). For personal, noncommercial use only. Free redistribution of this pattern is allowed on the condition that full credit is given.
2
Photographs are copyrighted by Medeia Designs (medeiadesigns.blogspot.com)
Gauge: 10x10 cm = 18 sts, 24 rows Needle size: 5 mm or size needed to obtain gauge (circular needles recommended) Yarn used: Cascade 220, 400 grams (800 meters) of Bluebell 7816 + 25 grams (50 meters) of White 8505 Other items needed: Two push-buttons
The basis for this pattern is a K2,P2-rib. Note that due to the nature of ribbing, the colourwork will be 'messy' around some of the edges. You can choose to skip the colourwork, and either crochet the chart on later; or to simply paint the wings on. If you do the colourwork, keep in mind that the fabric should be allowed to stretch; and you can solve some of the messy edges by clever weaving in of the ends of the different colours.
Abbreviations: K = Knit
ssk = slip 2 stitches knitwise, then knit slipped stitches together
P = Purl
ssp = slip 2 stitches knitwise, then purl slipped stitches together
k2tog = knit 2 together
psso = slipped stitch over
p2tog = purl 2 together
yo = yarn over
RS = right side
WS = wrong side
Final Fantasy, Rinoa Heartilly and all respective names are Trademark & © of Square Co., Ltd 1997, 1998. Pattern by Medeia Designs, February 2012 (medeiadesigns.blogspot.com). For personal, noncommercial use only. Free redistribution of this pattern is allowed on the condition that full credit is given.
3 Pattern: Cast on 134 stitches using the knitting on method. Row 1 (RS): *(Knit 1, Purl 1); repeat from * to last stitch; K1 R2: Knit 1; *(P1, K1); repeat from * to end R3: Same as row 1 R4: K1, P1, K to last 2 stitches; P1, K1 R5: Knit 1; Purl 2; *K2, P2; repeat from * to last stitch; K1 R6: Knit 1; Purl 1; Knit 1; *P2, K2; repeat from * to last 6 stitches; P2; K1; P1; K1 Repeat rows 5 and 6 until the work is the desired length, measuring from the hips down (err on the side of generosity). Don't worry if it seems quite narrow: because of the rib, the fabric can stretch quite a way horizontally and you can block the duster to your tastes (both in width and to make the rib stand out as in the original; as well as to stop the curling) later.
On the next right-side row, start the increases. Keeping the (K2, P2) pattern, increase 1 stitch after the first 3 stitches and 1 stitch before the last 3 stitches. Repeat this on every right-side row 19 times. (for the written-out version of these rows, see page 8) You should now have 174 stitches.
Next, knit the closure flaps: Row 1 (RS): K1, P2, *(K2, P2) until last stitch; K1; cast on an additional 14 stitches Row 2: *(K1, P1), repeat from * 7 times; K1, **(P2, K2), repeat from ** until last 5 stitches; P2, K1, P1, K1, cast on an additional 14 stitches Row 3: *(K1, P1), repeat from * 7 times; P1, **(K2, P2), repeat from ** until last 15 stitches; ***(K1, P1), repeat from *** 6 times; K1 Row 4: *(K1, P1), repeat from * 7 times; K1, **(P2, K2), repeat from ** until last 17 stitches; P2, ***(K1, P1), repeat from *** 7 times; K1. Row 5: As row 3. Row 6: Cast off first 14 st, K1, *(P2, K2), repeat from * until last 17 stitches; P2, **(K1, P1), repeat from ** 7 times; K1. Row 7: Cast off first 14 st, K1, P2, *(K2, P2), repeat from * until last stitch K1. Row 8: K1, P1, K1, *(P2, K2), repeat from * until last 5 stitches; P2, K1, P1, K1.
Final Fantasy, Rinoa Heartilly and all respective names are Trademark & © of Square Co., Ltd 1997, 1998. Pattern by Medeia Designs, February 2012 (medeiadesigns.blogspot.com). For personal, noncommercial use only. Free redistribution of this pattern is allowed on the condition that full credit is given.
4 You should now have 174 stitches again. Place a stitch marker after the 54th stitch and a stitch marker after the 120th stitch. The section between the markers will be the colourwork chart on page 7 (stitch 55 = 1st column). For the next 2 rows, knit in pattern as usual, at the same time working the colourwork pattern.
Final Fantasy And All Respective Names are Trademark & © of Square Co., Ltd, 1997, 1998.
Now, we begin the decreases of the front. From here on, while working the colourwork chart and maintaining the rib-pattern as instructed, decrease on every other RS-row as follows: K1, P1, ssk (or ssp if 2d st = p), [rib pattern to last 5 st], K2tog (or P2tog if 2d st = p), P2, K1 At the same time, work the armhole shaping as follows (row numbers as in colourwork chart): R9 (RS): K1, P4, *(K2, P2), repeat from *5 times'; K2, P14, K2, P2, K2, P1, [colourwork chart while maintaining K2,P2-rib, starting with P1, K2 etc], P1, K2, P2, K2, P14, **(K2, P2), repeat from ** 6 times; P2, K1. R10: K1, P1, K1, *(K2, P2), repeat from * 6 times; **(K1, P1), repeat from ** 5 times; (K2, P2) twice, K1, [colourwork chart while maintaining K2,P2-rib, starting with K1, P2 etc], K1, (P2, K2) twice, ‡(P1, K1), repeat from ‡ 5 times; ‡‡(P2, K2), repeat from ‡‡ 6 times; K1, P1, K1. R11: K1, P2, ssp, *(K2, P2), repeat from * 6 times; **(K1, P1), repeat from ** 4 times; (P2, K2) twice, P1, [colourwork chart while maintaining K2,P2-rib, starting with P1, K2 etc], P1, (K2, P2) twice, ‡(P1, K1), repeat from ‡ 4 times; ‡‡(P2, K2), repeat from ‡‡ 6 times; p2tog, P2, K1. Final Fantasy, Rinoa Heartilly and all respective names are Trademark & © of Square Co., Ltd 1997, 1998. Pattern by Medeia Designs, February 2012 (medeiadesigns.blogspot.com). For personal, noncommercial use only. Free redistribution of this pattern is allowed on the condition that full credit is given.
5 R12: K1, P1, *(K2, P2), repeat from * 6 times; **(K1, P1), repeat from ** 5 times; (K2, P2) twice, K1, [colourwork chart while maintaining K2,P2-rib, starting with K1, P2 etc], K1, (P2, K2) twice, ‡(P1, K1), repeat from ‡ 5 times; ‡‡(P2, K2); repeat from ‡‡ 6 times; P1, K1. R13: K1, P1, *(P2, K2), * 6 times; P2, K1, cast off 7 stitches, K1, P3, K2, P2, K2, P1, [colourwork chart while maintaining K2,P2-rib, starting with P1, K2 etc], P1, K2, P2, K2, P3, K1, cast off 7 stitches, K1, **(P2, K2), repeat from ** 6 times; P3, K1.
Break the yarn. Place the stitches for both fronts on stitch holders. You should have 33 stitches for each front halve, and 90 stitches for the back.
Re the yarn to continue with the back. Work the colourwork chart while maintaining the K2,P2-pattern and the 3-stitch border along the armhole edge. At the same time, decrease along the armhole edges as follows: On the next RS-row (row 15 in colourwork chart), decrease 1 st on each side after the 3 edge stitches (so: K1, P2, decrease; work to last 5 stitches; decrease, P2, K1). After that, decrease as stated every third RS row (rows 21, 27, 33, 39, 45, 51 in colourwork chart). Having finished the colourwork chart, you should now have 76 stitches. Work 4 rows in pattern. Next: Row 1 (RS): K1, P2, ssp, P1, (K2, P2) twice, K2, P to last 16 stitches, K2, (P2, K2) twice, P1, p2tog, P2, K1 Row 2: K1, P1, K1, (K2, P2) three times, *(K1, P1), repeat from * 21 times to last 15 stitches; (P2, K2) three times, K1, P1, K1 Row 3: K1, P2, (P2, K2) three times, *P2, K1, (P1, K1), repeat from * 19 times to last 17 stitches; (P2, K2) four times, K1 Row 4: As row 2 Row 5: K1, P2, ssp, (K2, P2) three times, K1, cast off 38 stitches, K1, (P2, K2) three times, p2tog, P2, K1. Place the stitches for the right shoulder on a stitch holder. Continue working the left shoulder (17 stitches) as follows: Row 1 (WS): K1, P1, K2, P2, K2, P2, K2, P2, K1, P1, K1 Row 2: K1, P2, ssk, P2, K2, P2, K2, P3, K1 Row 3: K1, P1, K2, P2, K2, P2, K2, (P1, K1) twice Row 4: K1, P2, ssp, P1, K2, P2, k2tog, P3, K1 Row 5: K1, P1, K2, P1, K2, P2, K3, P1, K1 Final Fantasy, Rinoa Heartilly and all respective names are Trademark & © of Square Co., Ltd 1997, 1998. Pattern by Medeia Designs, February 2012 (medeiadesigns.blogspot.com). For personal, noncommercial use only. Free redistribution of this pattern is allowed on the condition that full credit is given.
6 Row 6: K1, P2, ssp, K2, P1, k2tog, P3, K1 Row 7: K1, P1, K2, P1, K1, P2, K2, P1, K1 Row 8: K1, P3, K2, slip 1 stitch, p2tog, psso, P2, K1 Row 9: K1, P1, K2, P2, K2, P1, K1 Row 10: Cast off remaining 10 stitches.
Work the right shoulder the same, in mirror image. For written out instructions for this, see page 8.
Now work the left front. Continue decreases on front edge as given. Decrease 1 stitch on the armhole edge after the 3d stitch on the next 5 RS rows. Thereafter, decrease 1 stitch on the armhole edge after the 3d stitch on every other RS row (in the same rows as the decreases at the front edge). When there are 14 stitches left, start paying attention to the pattern. You want to end up with 10 stitches to match the back. So those 10 stitches should be as follows (seen from RS): 2 st seed stitch, 2 st purl, 2 st knit, 2 st purl, 2 st seed stitch. Decrease every other RS row in such a way that you end up with those stitches. (this means that on the last decrease row, you should decrease only 1 stitch rather than 2) Continue knitting these 10 stitches in pattern for 16 rows (6-7 cm). Cast off.
Work the right front as the left front, in mirror image.
Block those parts of the duster that need it, notably the colourwork chart (to even out the tension) and any part that's curling. When blocking the rectangular lower part of the duster, overstretch slightly to make the rib stand out.
the shoulder seams. Sew the two push buttons in place on the closure flaps. Weave in ends. You're done!
Final Fantasy, Rinoa Heartilly and all respective names are Trademark & © of Square Co., Ltd 1997, 1998. Pattern by Medeia Designs, February 2012 (medeiadesigns.blogspot.com). For personal, noncommercial use only. Free redistribution of this pattern is allowed on the condition that full credit is given.
7 Wings colourwork chart
Final Fantasy, Rinoa Heartilly and all respective names are Trademark & © of Square Co., Ltd 1997, 1998. Pattern by Medeia Designs, February 2012 (medeiadesigns.blogspot.com). For personal, noncommercial use only. Free redistribution of this pattern is allowed on the condition that full credit is given.
8 Extra written-out instructions
Increases: My preferred method of increases is yarn over, and then knitting or purling (depending on what the pattern demands) in the back of the loop (ib) on the next row. You can use whatever increase you feel suits best: in that case, increase in the stitch after or before the yarn over (the stitch after or before the 3-stitch border). Row 1 (RS): K1, P2, yo; *(K2, P2), repeat from * until last 5 stitches; K2, yo, P1, K1. R2: K1, P1, K1, K1ib, *(P2, K2), repeat from * until last 2 stitches; P1, K1. R3: K1, P2, yo, P1, *(K2, P2), repeat from * until last 6 st; K2, yo, P3, K1. R4: K1, P1, K1, K1ib, K1, *(P2, K2), repeat from * until last 3 stitches; K1, P1, K1. R5: K1, P2, yo, P2, *(K2, P2), repeat from * until last 8 stitches; K3, P2, yo, P2, K1. R6: K1, P1, K1, P1ib, K2, *(P2, K2), repeat from * until last 4 stitches; P1, K1, P1, K1. R7: K1, P2, yo, K1, *(P2, K2), repeat from * until last 6 stitches; P2, K1, yo, P2, K1 R8: K1, P1, K1, P1ib, P1, *(K2, P2), repeat from * until last 3 stitches; K1, P1, K1. Repeat these 8 rows 4 more times.
Right shoulder: Row 1 (WS): K1, P1, K1, P2, K2, P2, K2, P2, K2, P1, K1 Row 2: K1, P3, K2, P2, K2, P2, k2tog, P2, K1 Row 3: (K1, P1) twice, K2, P2, K2, P2, K2, P1, K1 Row 4: K1, P3, ssk, P2, K2, P1, p2tog, P2, K1 Row 5: K1, P1, K3, P2, K2, P1, K2, P1, K1 Row 6: K1, P3, ssk, P1, K2, p2tog, P2, K1 Row 7: K1, P1, K2, P2, K1, P1, K2, P1, K1 Row 8: K1, P2, slip 1 stitch, ssp, psso, K2, P3, K1 Row 9: K1, P1, K2, P2, K2, P1, K1 Row 10: Cast off remaining 10 stitches.
Final Fantasy, Rinoa Heartilly and all respective names are Trademark & © of Square Co., Ltd 1997, 1998. Pattern by Medeia Designs, February 2012 (medeiadesigns.blogspot.com). For personal, noncommercial use only. Free redistribution of this pattern is allowed on the condition that full credit is given.
9 Bonus pattern: Arm warmers
Rinoa's arm warmers are very simple: tubes in a K2, P2-rib with a hem folded in at the top, and a seed stitch border at the bottom.
Gauge: 10x10 cm = 18 sts, 24 rows Needle size: 5 mm (double-pointed) or size needed to obtain gauge Yarn used: Cascade 220, 70 grams (140 meters) of Bluebell 7816
Cast on 40 stitches using a provisional cast-on and for knitting in the round. R1-6: Knit 2, P2, repeat to end. R5: Knit the hem. Maintaining the rib pattern, knit one stitch on the needle together with the corresponding stitch on the cast-on edge, folding the work with the wrong sides facing each other. Continue in pattern until the arm warmers are the desired length. Then, knit two more rounds as follows: Round 1: *(K1, P1), repeat from * to end. Round 2: *(P1, K1), repeat from * to end. Cast off.
Make a second arm warmer in the same way. You're done!
Variation: you can leave off the garter-stitch border at the bottom and sew another hem. In that case, when the arm warmers are the desired length, knit 5 more rows in rib-pattern. Cast off. Turn the arm warmers inside out. Turn the cast off edges over so far that the arm warmers are the desired length (ca. 4 rows fold) and lightly sew them into place. Be careful not to twist the fabric! Turn right side out again.
Notes:
If you have thin arms, just cast on 4 stitches less. If you want to prevent the arm warmers stretching with time and coming down eventually, wrap the hem around a piece of elastic when knitting it.
Final Fantasy, Rinoa Heartilly and all respective names are Trademark & © of Square Co., Ltd 1997, 1998. Pattern by Medeia Designs, February 2012 (medeiadesigns.blogspot.com). For personal, noncommercial use only. Free redistribution of this pattern is allowed on the condition that full credit is given.
Rinoa Heartilly duster (plus bonus pattern: arm warmers)
Final Fantasy And All Respective Names are Trademark & © of Square Co., Ltd, 1997, 1998.
Index
Information about the pattern
p.2
Pattern for duster
p.3
Colourwork chart
p.7
Extra written-out instructions
p.8
Bonus pattern: arm warmers
p.9
Final Fantasy, Rinoa Heartilly and all respective names are Trademark & © of Square Co., Ltd 1997, 1998. Pattern by Medeia Designs, February 2012 (medeiadesigns.blogspot.com). For personal, noncommercial use only. Free redistribution of this pattern is allowed on the condition that full credit is given.
2
Photographs are copyrighted by Medeia Designs (medeiadesigns.blogspot.com)
Gauge: 10x10 cm = 18 sts, 24 rows Needle size: 5 mm or size needed to obtain gauge (circular needles recommended) Yarn used: Cascade 220, 400 grams (800 meters) of Bluebell 7816 + 25 grams (50 meters) of White 8505 Other items needed: Two push-buttons
The basis for this pattern is a K2,P2-rib. Note that due to the nature of ribbing, the colourwork will be 'messy' around some of the edges. You can choose to skip the colourwork, and either crochet the chart on later; or to simply paint the wings on. If you do the colourwork, keep in mind that the fabric should be allowed to stretch; and you can solve some of the messy edges by clever weaving in of the ends of the different colours.
Abbreviations: K = Knit
ssk = slip 2 stitches knitwise, then knit slipped stitches together
P = Purl
ssp = slip 2 stitches knitwise, then purl slipped stitches together
k2tog = knit 2 together
psso = slipped stitch over
p2tog = purl 2 together
yo = yarn over
RS = right side
WS = wrong side
Final Fantasy, Rinoa Heartilly and all respective names are Trademark & © of Square Co., Ltd 1997, 1998. Pattern by Medeia Designs, February 2012 (medeiadesigns.blogspot.com). For personal, noncommercial use only. Free redistribution of this pattern is allowed on the condition that full credit is given.
3 Pattern: Cast on 134 stitches using the knitting on method. Row 1 (RS): *(Knit 1, Purl 1); repeat from * to last stitch; K1 R2: Knit 1; *(P1, K1); repeat from * to end R3: Same as row 1 R4: K1, P1, K to last 2 stitches; P1, K1 R5: Knit 1; Purl 2; *K2, P2; repeat from * to last stitch; K1 R6: Knit 1; Purl 1; Knit 1; *P2, K2; repeat from * to last 6 stitches; P2; K1; P1; K1 Repeat rows 5 and 6 until the work is the desired length, measuring from the hips down (err on the side of generosity). Don't worry if it seems quite narrow: because of the rib, the fabric can stretch quite a way horizontally and you can block the duster to your tastes (both in width and to make the rib stand out as in the original; as well as to stop the curling) later.
On the next right-side row, start the increases. Keeping the (K2, P2) pattern, increase 1 stitch after the first 3 stitches and 1 stitch before the last 3 stitches. Repeat this on every right-side row 19 times. (for the written-out version of these rows, see page 8) You should now have 174 stitches.
Next, knit the closure flaps: Row 1 (RS): K1, P2, *(K2, P2) until last stitch; K1; cast on an additional 14 stitches Row 2: *(K1, P1), repeat from * 7 times; K1, **(P2, K2), repeat from ** until last 5 stitches; P2, K1, P1, K1, cast on an additional 14 stitches Row 3: *(K1, P1), repeat from * 7 times; P1, **(K2, P2), repeat from ** until last 15 stitches; ***(K1, P1), repeat from *** 6 times; K1 Row 4: *(K1, P1), repeat from * 7 times; K1, **(P2, K2), repeat from ** until last 17 stitches; P2, ***(K1, P1), repeat from *** 7 times; K1. Row 5: As row 3. Row 6: Cast off first 14 st, K1, *(P2, K2), repeat from * until last 17 stitches; P2, **(K1, P1), repeat from ** 7 times; K1. Row 7: Cast off first 14 st, K1, P2, *(K2, P2), repeat from * until last stitch K1. Row 8: K1, P1, K1, *(P2, K2), repeat from * until last 5 stitches; P2, K1, P1, K1.
Final Fantasy, Rinoa Heartilly and all respective names are Trademark & © of Square Co., Ltd 1997, 1998. Pattern by Medeia Designs, February 2012 (medeiadesigns.blogspot.com). For personal, noncommercial use only. Free redistribution of this pattern is allowed on the condition that full credit is given.
4 You should now have 174 stitches again. Place a stitch marker after the 54th stitch and a stitch marker after the 120th stitch. The section between the markers will be the colourwork chart on page 7 (stitch 55 = 1st column). For the next 2 rows, knit in pattern as usual, at the same time working the colourwork pattern.
Final Fantasy And All Respective Names are Trademark & © of Square Co., Ltd, 1997, 1998.
Now, we begin the decreases of the front. From here on, while working the colourwork chart and maintaining the rib-pattern as instructed, decrease on every other RS-row as follows: K1, P1, ssk (or ssp if 2d st = p), [rib pattern to last 5 st], K2tog (or P2tog if 2d st = p), P2, K1 At the same time, work the armhole shaping as follows (row numbers as in colourwork chart): R9 (RS): K1, P4, *(K2, P2), repeat from *5 times'; K2, P14, K2, P2, K2, P1, [colourwork chart while maintaining K2,P2-rib, starting with P1, K2 etc], P1, K2, P2, K2, P14, **(K2, P2), repeat from ** 6 times; P2, K1. R10: K1, P1, K1, *(K2, P2), repeat from * 6 times; **(K1, P1), repeat from ** 5 times; (K2, P2) twice, K1, [colourwork chart while maintaining K2,P2-rib, starting with K1, P2 etc], K1, (P2, K2) twice, ‡(P1, K1), repeat from ‡ 5 times; ‡‡(P2, K2), repeat from ‡‡ 6 times; K1, P1, K1. R11: K1, P2, ssp, *(K2, P2), repeat from * 6 times; **(K1, P1), repeat from ** 4 times; (P2, K2) twice, P1, [colourwork chart while maintaining K2,P2-rib, starting with P1, K2 etc], P1, (K2, P2) twice, ‡(P1, K1), repeat from ‡ 4 times; ‡‡(P2, K2), repeat from ‡‡ 6 times; p2tog, P2, K1. Final Fantasy, Rinoa Heartilly and all respective names are Trademark & © of Square Co., Ltd 1997, 1998. Pattern by Medeia Designs, February 2012 (medeiadesigns.blogspot.com). For personal, noncommercial use only. Free redistribution of this pattern is allowed on the condition that full credit is given.
5 R12: K1, P1, *(K2, P2), repeat from * 6 times; **(K1, P1), repeat from ** 5 times; (K2, P2) twice, K1, [colourwork chart while maintaining K2,P2-rib, starting with K1, P2 etc], K1, (P2, K2) twice, ‡(P1, K1), repeat from ‡ 5 times; ‡‡(P2, K2); repeat from ‡‡ 6 times; P1, K1. R13: K1, P1, *(P2, K2), * 6 times; P2, K1, cast off 7 stitches, K1, P3, K2, P2, K2, P1, [colourwork chart while maintaining K2,P2-rib, starting with P1, K2 etc], P1, K2, P2, K2, P3, K1, cast off 7 stitches, K1, **(P2, K2), repeat from ** 6 times; P3, K1.
Break the yarn. Place the stitches for both fronts on stitch holders. You should have 33 stitches for each front halve, and 90 stitches for the back.
Re the yarn to continue with the back. Work the colourwork chart while maintaining the K2,P2-pattern and the 3-stitch border along the armhole edge. At the same time, decrease along the armhole edges as follows: On the next RS-row (row 15 in colourwork chart), decrease 1 st on each side after the 3 edge stitches (so: K1, P2, decrease; work to last 5 stitches; decrease, P2, K1). After that, decrease as stated every third RS row (rows 21, 27, 33, 39, 45, 51 in colourwork chart). Having finished the colourwork chart, you should now have 76 stitches. Work 4 rows in pattern. Next: Row 1 (RS): K1, P2, ssp, P1, (K2, P2) twice, K2, P to last 16 stitches, K2, (P2, K2) twice, P1, p2tog, P2, K1 Row 2: K1, P1, K1, (K2, P2) three times, *(K1, P1), repeat from * 21 times to last 15 stitches; (P2, K2) three times, K1, P1, K1 Row 3: K1, P2, (P2, K2) three times, *P2, K1, (P1, K1), repeat from * 19 times to last 17 stitches; (P2, K2) four times, K1 Row 4: As row 2 Row 5: K1, P2, ssp, (K2, P2) three times, K1, cast off 38 stitches, K1, (P2, K2) three times, p2tog, P2, K1. Place the stitches for the right shoulder on a stitch holder. Continue working the left shoulder (17 stitches) as follows: Row 1 (WS): K1, P1, K2, P2, K2, P2, K2, P2, K1, P1, K1 Row 2: K1, P2, ssk, P2, K2, P2, K2, P3, K1 Row 3: K1, P1, K2, P2, K2, P2, K2, (P1, K1) twice Row 4: K1, P2, ssp, P1, K2, P2, k2tog, P3, K1 Row 5: K1, P1, K2, P1, K2, P2, K3, P1, K1 Final Fantasy, Rinoa Heartilly and all respective names are Trademark & © of Square Co., Ltd 1997, 1998. Pattern by Medeia Designs, February 2012 (medeiadesigns.blogspot.com). For personal, noncommercial use only. Free redistribution of this pattern is allowed on the condition that full credit is given.
6 Row 6: K1, P2, ssp, K2, P1, k2tog, P3, K1 Row 7: K1, P1, K2, P1, K1, P2, K2, P1, K1 Row 8: K1, P3, K2, slip 1 stitch, p2tog, psso, P2, K1 Row 9: K1, P1, K2, P2, K2, P1, K1 Row 10: Cast off remaining 10 stitches.
Work the right shoulder the same, in mirror image. For written out instructions for this, see page 8.
Now work the left front. Continue decreases on front edge as given. Decrease 1 stitch on the armhole edge after the 3d stitch on the next 5 RS rows. Thereafter, decrease 1 stitch on the armhole edge after the 3d stitch on every other RS row (in the same rows as the decreases at the front edge). When there are 14 stitches left, start paying attention to the pattern. You want to end up with 10 stitches to match the back. So those 10 stitches should be as follows (seen from RS): 2 st seed stitch, 2 st purl, 2 st knit, 2 st purl, 2 st seed stitch. Decrease every other RS row in such a way that you end up with those stitches. (this means that on the last decrease row, you should decrease only 1 stitch rather than 2) Continue knitting these 10 stitches in pattern for 16 rows (6-7 cm). Cast off.
Work the right front as the left front, in mirror image.
Block those parts of the duster that need it, notably the colourwork chart (to even out the tension) and any part that's curling. When blocking the rectangular lower part of the duster, overstretch slightly to make the rib stand out.
the shoulder seams. Sew the two push buttons in place on the closure flaps. Weave in ends. You're done!
Final Fantasy, Rinoa Heartilly and all respective names are Trademark & © of Square Co., Ltd 1997, 1998. Pattern by Medeia Designs, February 2012 (medeiadesigns.blogspot.com). For personal, noncommercial use only. Free redistribution of this pattern is allowed on the condition that full credit is given.
7 Wings colourwork chart
Final Fantasy, Rinoa Heartilly and all respective names are Trademark & © of Square Co., Ltd 1997, 1998. Pattern by Medeia Designs, February 2012 (medeiadesigns.blogspot.com). For personal, noncommercial use only. Free redistribution of this pattern is allowed on the condition that full credit is given.
8 Extra written-out instructions
Increases: My preferred method of increases is yarn over, and then knitting or purling (depending on what the pattern demands) in the back of the loop (ib) on the next row. You can use whatever increase you feel suits best: in that case, increase in the stitch after or before the yarn over (the stitch after or before the 3-stitch border). Row 1 (RS): K1, P2, yo; *(K2, P2), repeat from * until last 5 stitches; K2, yo, P1, K1. R2: K1, P1, K1, K1ib, *(P2, K2), repeat from * until last 2 stitches; P1, K1. R3: K1, P2, yo, P1, *(K2, P2), repeat from * until last 6 st; K2, yo, P3, K1. R4: K1, P1, K1, K1ib, K1, *(P2, K2), repeat from * until last 3 stitches; K1, P1, K1. R5: K1, P2, yo, P2, *(K2, P2), repeat from * until last 8 stitches; K3, P2, yo, P2, K1. R6: K1, P1, K1, P1ib, K2, *(P2, K2), repeat from * until last 4 stitches; P1, K1, P1, K1. R7: K1, P2, yo, K1, *(P2, K2), repeat from * until last 6 stitches; P2, K1, yo, P2, K1 R8: K1, P1, K1, P1ib, P1, *(K2, P2), repeat from * until last 3 stitches; K1, P1, K1. Repeat these 8 rows 4 more times.
Right shoulder: Row 1 (WS): K1, P1, K1, P2, K2, P2, K2, P2, K2, P1, K1 Row 2: K1, P3, K2, P2, K2, P2, k2tog, P2, K1 Row 3: (K1, P1) twice, K2, P2, K2, P2, K2, P1, K1 Row 4: K1, P3, ssk, P2, K2, P1, p2tog, P2, K1 Row 5: K1, P1, K3, P2, K2, P1, K2, P1, K1 Row 6: K1, P3, ssk, P1, K2, p2tog, P2, K1 Row 7: K1, P1, K2, P2, K1, P1, K2, P1, K1 Row 8: K1, P2, slip 1 stitch, ssp, psso, K2, P3, K1 Row 9: K1, P1, K2, P2, K2, P1, K1 Row 10: Cast off remaining 10 stitches.
Final Fantasy, Rinoa Heartilly and all respective names are Trademark & © of Square Co., Ltd 1997, 1998. Pattern by Medeia Designs, February 2012 (medeiadesigns.blogspot.com). For personal, noncommercial use only. Free redistribution of this pattern is allowed on the condition that full credit is given.
9 Bonus pattern: Arm warmers
Rinoa's arm warmers are very simple: tubes in a K2, P2-rib with a hem folded in at the top, and a seed stitch border at the bottom.
Gauge: 10x10 cm = 18 sts, 24 rows Needle size: 5 mm (double-pointed) or size needed to obtain gauge Yarn used: Cascade 220, 70 grams (140 meters) of Bluebell 7816
Cast on 40 stitches using a provisional cast-on and for knitting in the round. R1-6: Knit 2, P2, repeat to end. R5: Knit the hem. Maintaining the rib pattern, knit one stitch on the needle together with the corresponding stitch on the cast-on edge, folding the work with the wrong sides facing each other. Continue in pattern until the arm warmers are the desired length. Then, knit two more rounds as follows: Round 1: *(K1, P1), repeat from * to end. Round 2: *(P1, K1), repeat from * to end. Cast off.
Make a second arm warmer in the same way. You're done!
Variation: you can leave off the garter-stitch border at the bottom and sew another hem. In that case, when the arm warmers are the desired length, knit 5 more rows in rib-pattern. Cast off. Turn the arm warmers inside out. Turn the cast off edges over so far that the arm warmers are the desired length (ca. 4 rows fold) and lightly sew them into place. Be careful not to twist the fabric! Turn right side out again.
Notes:
If you have thin arms, just cast on 4 stitches less. If you want to prevent the arm warmers stretching with time and coming down eventually, wrap the hem around a piece of elastic when knitting it.
Final Fantasy, Rinoa Heartilly and all respective names are Trademark & © of Square Co., Ltd 1997, 1998. Pattern by Medeia Designs, February 2012 (medeiadesigns.blogspot.com). For personal, noncommercial use only. Free redistribution of this pattern is allowed on the condition that full credit is given.
Related Documents 3h463d
Rinoa Heartilly Duster 2l1i5w
December 2019 13
Rinoa Heartilly 3k6qg
May 2023 0
Manual Duster 4n4i42
July 2022 0
rios Duster y5ke
October 2022 0
Manual Duster Esp 1g4u6a
May 2022 0