Greige Fabric Inspection

Greige Fabric

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Newly constructed fabric as it comes from the mill is called as greige fabric

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The goods must through various processes to make it suitable for its intended use

GREY ROOM OPERATIONS

Fabric inspection involves following three processes

• Perching • Burling • Mending

GREY ROOM OPERATIONS Perching It is a visual inspection and it is carried out through the inspection table which consists of a frosted glass

with lights behind and above it.

The fabric imperfections like thick places, defects, yarn knots, stains and other flaws are marked. Burling It is the removal of yarn knots or other imperfection

from the fabric.

GREY ROOM OPERATIONS Mending is the actual repair of imperfections. • The recent innovation by the use of laser beams. • The imperfections like stains, holes, thick places, loose ends and protruding threads of warp and weft are detected. • Eliminates human error.

Sewing: After the goods have been inspected, checked and classed in the grey room, according to quality and stamped, they are sewn together, end to end, by sewing machines

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Fabric Inspection     

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Principle Importance Types of Inspection Requirements Inspection Systems

Fabric Defects  

Minor, Major and Serious Woven & Knitted

Defects visualsTextile Committee\presentation.e xe

Major Defect: A defect that, if conspicuous (clearly visible) on the finished product, would cause the item to be a second.

A "second" is a garment with a conspicuous defect that affects the sale-ability or service-ability of the item. Minor Defect: A defect that would not cause the product to be termed a second either because of severity or location.

WOVEN FABRIC DEFECTS Jerk-in (major/minor) - Caused by an extra piece of filling yarn being jerked part way into the fabric by the shuttle. The defect will appear at the selvedge Knots (minor) - Caused by tying of yarns together. Burl Mark (major) - extra piece of yarn is woven into the fabric Drawbacks (major) - Caused by excessive loom tension applied by some abnormal restriction. When the restriction is removed the excess slack is woven into the fabric. Usually the ends are broken

Dropped Pick (major) - Caused by the filling insertion mechanism on a shuttle-less loom not holding the filling yarn, causing the filling yarn to be woven without tension.

End Out (major) - Caused by yarn breaking and loom continuing to run with missing end Mixed End (major) - Yarn of a different fiber blend used on the warp frame, resulting in a streak in the fabric Mixed Filling (major) - Caused by bobbin of lightweight yarn or different fiber blend used in filling. Will appear as a distinct shade/color change Open Reed (major) - Results from a bent reed wire causing warp ends to be held apart, exposing the filling yarn. Slub (major/minor) - Usually caused by an extra piece of yarn that is woven into fabric. It can also be caused by thick places in the yarn. Often caused by fly waste being spun in yarn in the spinning process

Smash (major) - Caused by a number of ruptured warp ends that have been repaired Soiled Filling or End (major) - Dirty, oil looking spots on the warp or filling yarns, or on package-dyed yarn Stop Mark (major/minor) - When the loom is stopped, the yarn elongates under tension; when loom starts again the slackness is woven into the fabric Thin Place (major) - Often caused by the filling yarn breaking and the loom continuing to run until the operator notices the problem

KNITTED FABRIC DEFECTS

Barre (major) - Caused by mixing yarn on feed into machine. Fabric will appear to have horizontal streaks Birdseye (major/minor) - Caused by unintentional tucking from malfunctioning needle. Usually two small distorted stitches, side by side

Broken Color Pattern (major) - Usually caused by colored yarn on frame. Drop Stitches (major) - Results from malfunctioning needle or jack. Will appear as holes or missing stitches. End Out (major) - Results from knitting machine continuing to run with missing end

Hole (major) - Caused by broken needle Missing Yarn (major) - Caused by one end of yarn missing from feed and machine continuing to run Mixed Yarn (major) - Results from wrong yarn (or wrong size yarn) placed on feed. Fabric could appear as thick end or different color if fibers have different affinity for dye Needle Line (major/minor) - Caused by bent needle forming distorted stitches. Usually vertical line

Press-Off (major) - Results when all or some of the needles on circular knitting fail to function and fabric either falls off the machine or design is completely disrupted or destroyed. Runner (major) - Caused by broken needle. Will appear as vertical line. Most machines have a stopping device to stop machine when a needle breaks Slub (major/minor) - Usually caused by a thick or heavy place in yarn, or by lint getting onto yarn feeds.

•Inspection

PRINCIPLE Inspection ↓

Detection of defects ↓ of these defects to appropriate personnel ↓

Determination of causes of defects ↓ Correction of the defects

IMPORTANCE • Fabric inspection is done to determine its acceptability. • If inspection is not done, it may result in (a) Loss of the material (b) Loss of time (c) Dissatisfaction due to poor quality (d) Poor customer return

Inspection 

Inspection is carried out mainly to appraise the quality of products in of manufacturing defects and adherence to the specifications and other requirements.

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Normally, the visual inspection is carried out on the fabric to examine the occurrence of yarn defects, fabric defects, design/colors besides specification particulars

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In the earlier days, the inspection was mainly carried out to segregate the defective products from the good products thereby controlling the quality of products at the exit points.

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In the late 80s, the concept of quality has undergone total transformation from quality control to quality assurance and total quality management.

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In the changed scenario, the inspection is mainly carried out to ascertain that the products conform to requirement and initiate suitable corrective and preventive action if otherwise.

Types of Inspection 

There are two ways of doing inspection viz. 100% inspection and sampling inspection.

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The 100% inspection is generally carried out to segregate the products quality-wise and perform mending activity for products having mendable defects whereas the sampling inspection mainly focus on sentencing the lot or batch for acceptance or otherwise based on the sample.

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This will lead to reduction in defects in the final product, rejection level, replacement and thereby improve the quality of the final product which results in quality image in the market

Requirements of Inspection 

Inspection and Mending is to be carried out on a flat table in a well illuminated/ ventilated place.



Inspection equipments like counting glass, a good calibrated tape, metallic comb, clipper-plucker needle are to be provided to the checkers

CHECKING OF DIMENSIONS MEASUREMENT OF WIDTH:  Width shall be measured at three different places of the fabric and recorded. 

While measuring width, care should be taken

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· to remove the wrinkles/ crease gently from the fabric surface. · to keep the measuring tape straight across the fabric horizontally from selvedge to selvedge. · to measure the width as far as possible near the centre avoiding the ends. · not to stretch the fabric while measuring.

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MEASUREMENT OF LENGTH:  Fabric to be measured for length and actual length recorded. 

Length is measured by any of the following methods

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· By ing through metre counter fitted roller. · By manually clipping the fabrics in the fold measuring frame. · By counting the number of metre fold in case of folded fabrics.

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Care to be taken to ensure that the folds are of one metre length by measuring a few folds.

CHECKING OF CONSTRUCTIONAL PARTICULARS ENDS PER INCH:  Ends per inch shall be counted at two places along the width of the fabric and recorded. PICKS PER INCH:  Picks per inch shall be counted at three places along the length of the fabric and recorded. 

Care to be taken while placing the pick glass to see that the edges of the template should coincide with the yarn. Ends/Picks per inch may be counted for one inch. Also the picks should not be counted at defective places like weft bars and cracks.

WEIGHT PER SQ.MTR.:  Pieces are to be weighed and recorded. Weight per square metre to be calculated and recorded. CALCULATION OF WEIGHT/SQ.MTR.:  · Weigh the individual piece under Inspection and note-down.  · Work out the sq.mtrs. of the piece by multiplying the length of the piece in mtrs. and width of the piece in mtrs.  Calculate wt./sq.mtrs . as: Weight in kgs. --------------------------------------------------Length in mtrs. X Width in mtrs.

Inspection Systems 

There are three different systems for grading the quality of fabric, which are as follows: SYSTEM . I (FLAW BASED)  In this system, depending upon the magnitude, defects are classified as minor, major or serious. Note: 1) Minor Flaws: 

Minor flaws occurring more than one in number within 15 cms. length of the cloth shall be reckoned as one minor flaw only

2) Major Flaws: a)

Major flaws occurring more than one in number within a length of 15 cms. of the cloth shall be reckoned as one major flaw only.

b)

Major flaws occurring in a consecutive length beyond 15 cms. shall be reckoned as one major flaw each for every 15 cms. or part thereof.

3) Selvedge Defects: a)

In case of furnishing fabrics all selvedge defects like pulled in selvedge, wavy selvedge etc. of minor nature are also to be reckoned as major flaws.

b)

Defective or damaged selvedge exceeding 5% of the length of the piece in case of furnishing fabrics are to be reckoned as serious flaw.

c)

All types of selvedge defects or weaving defects very close to the selvedges are not to be reckoned in case of fabrics used for making garments/made-ups.

ACCEPTABILITY CRITERIA FOR FLAWS: 

The acceptability level for “first” quality fabric is usually established by mutual agreement between the buyer and the seller.

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The different types of fabrics have different point levels of acceptability depending upon their end use.

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Some of the commonly followed standard for acceptability for the above mentioned systems are listed here

Note:  Minor flaws : @ 25 per 100 meters maximum are acceptable.  Serious flaws: No serious flaw is acceptable.

Sample size (m)

Acceptd no. of major flaws

Sample size (m)

Standard.A-1 Standard A

Acceptd no. of major flaws

Standard.A-1

Standard A

1200

29

40

350

7

10

1175

28

39

325

6

9

1150

27

38

300

6

8

1125

26

37

275

5

7

1100

26

36

250

4

6

1075

25

35

225

4

6

1050

25

34

200

3

5

1025

24

33

175

3

4

1000

23

32

150

2

3

975

23

31

125

2

3

950

22

31

100

1

2

SYSTEM . II (4-POINT SYSTEM) 

The 4-point system, also called the American Apparel Manufacturers Association (AAMA) point grading system for determining fabric quality, is widely used by producers of apparel fabrics and by the Department of Defence in the United States

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Fabric flaws or defects are assigned point values based on the following:

Length of defect in fabric, either length or width

Points allotted

Up to 3 in. (7.5 cms.)

1

Over 3 in. (7.5 cms.) up to 6 in (15 cms.)

2

Over 6 in. (15 cms.) up to 9 in. (23 cms.)

3

Over 9 in. (23 cms.)

4

Holes and openings (largest dimension)

Points allotted

1 in. (2.5 cms.) or less

2 4

Over 1 in. (2.5 cms.)

 

The maximum number of defect points to be counted against any one linear yard/metre is four points. Overall, fabric quality is assessed on the basis of the number of defect points per 100 sq yards/sq mtrs. of fabric.

ACCEPTABILITY CRITERIA FOR FLAWS: 

Normally fabric rolls containing up to 40 points per 100 sq yds. and 48 points per 100 sq mtrs. are acceptable.

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However, based on the price line and end product more or less than 40/48 points per 100 sq. yds./100 sq mtrs. respectively may be accepted.

Example - 1 

A fabric roll of 120 yds. long and 48 in. wide contains the following defects:

2 defects up to 3 in. 5 defects over 3 in. but less than 6 in. 1 defects over 6 in. but less than 9 in. 1 defect over 9 in.

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Points/100 sq. yds

=

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Total points scored in the roll --------------------------------------------------Fabric width x Total yard inspected

Answer???????????????????????????????????? ??

2 defects up to 3 in. 2x1=2 points 5 defects over 3 in. but less than 6 in. 5 x 2 = 10 points 1 defects over 6 in. but less than 9 in. 1x3=3 points 1 defect over 9 in. 1 x 4 = 4 points TOTAL

=19 points

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Therefore, Points/100 sq. yds. Total points scored in the roll x 3600 = --------------------------------------------------Fabric width in inches x Total yard inspected

=

= 

19 x 3600 --------------48 x 120 11.9 defect points/100 sq. yds.

So if the acceptance criteria is 40 points/100 sq. yds. then this roll is acceptable.

Example - 2: A fabric roll of 100 m long and 150 cm wide contains the following defects:  

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3 defects up to 7.5 cm. 6 defects over 7.5 cm. but less than 15 cm. 2 defects over 15 cm but less than 23 cm. 1 defect over 23 cm.

Answer?????????????????????????????

SYSTEM . III (10-POINT SYSTEM) 

No linear yard of fabric is assigned more than 10 points, no matter how bad or frequent the defects are.

Acceptability criteria for flaws: 

Fabric is considered of “first” quality if the number of defect points are less than the number of yards of fabric inspected.

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In the case of fabrics wider than 50 in., the fabric is considered of first quality if the total defect points do not exceed the number of yards of fabric inspected by 10%.

Length of defect, Warp defects Up to1 inch

Points allotted 1

1 to 5 inch

3

5 to 10 inch

5

10 to 36 inch

10

Filling defect (weft defect)

Points allotted

Up to 1 inch

1

1 to 5 inch

3

5 inch to half-width

5

Larger than half-width

10