Norwich 2o5o

Introduction Although there is evidence of the occupation of Anglia from prehistoric times, (the remains of a neolithic henge - made in wood because of the lack of rock in the area - lies buried just south of Norwich) to start this history we are going back to the time when the first signs of a township appeared in the area. But first let's look at the geography of the area. East Anglia is composed of clay and sand. There is no hard indigenous rock in the area, though there is an abundance of flint. The area is though of by many as being flat because there are no hills of any consequence, but minor hills and valleys abound in a gently rolling landscape. But there are areas that are completely flat. In the west, below and to the west of The Wash, is a vast area known as the Fens. Countless dykes and ditches dug over the centuries have just kept the sea at bay. And in the east, the rivers now meander through the drained remains of the vast estuaries that once led to the sea. Even today the coastline is continually changing as the soft cliffs are eroded by wind and tide. Countless houses and even whole villages & towns have disappeared beneath the waves. The area around Norwich is at about 40 metres (120 feet) above sea level, and during the glacial period the rivers Wensum, Yare and Tas and countless minor streams carved valleys through the sandstone crag, leaving well drained terraces above the marshy edges of the rivers. The river Yare between the Norwich area and the coast was much wider than today. At the coast the estuary was very wide. What was to become Great Yarmouth was then only the start of a sandbank, and the invading ships from Europe had easy access to the Norwich area.

The Iceni & Romans During the Iron Age, the area of East Anglia was occupied by a tribe of Celts called the Iceni. The most famous of the Iceni was Queen Boudicca (died 60AD). The exact location of her kingdom (or is that queendom) is unknown. Some say it was near Thetford, some 25 miles south west of Norwich; some place it nearer to Norwich. In his autobiographical novel Lavengro (1851), George Borrow, in describing Norwich, mentions " its mighty mound, which, if tradition speaks true, was raised by human hands to serve as a grave-heap of an old heathen king, who sits deep within it, with his sword in his hand, and his gold and silver treasures about him." Did the Normans later build their castle on top of the grave of Boudicca's husband, King Prasutagus? There is no evidence to this, but that doesn't mean it's not true. Anyway, back to the story.. After the death of her husband, King Prasutagus, the Romans tried to exert their power over the area by raising the taxes. When Boudicca led a protest movement, she was beaten and tortured, and her daughters raped. Soon after she raised an army and marched on, and sacked, the Roman towns of Colchester, London and St. Albans. But the victory was short lived. The Romans assembled an army of troops from the outlying regions, and in a final battle, the Iceni were all but destroyed. Boudicca escaped, but then took her own life with poison. The vengeance of the Romans was severe, and to keep the Iceni under control they built their town of Venta Icenorum (Market of the Iceni) just a couple of miles south of today's Norwich in the wide shallow valley on the river Tas. There is no evidence of Roman occupation of the Norwich area at this time, but as there was a cross-roads at Tombland at the time, one can assume there could have been some minor occupation. Certainly the early Anglo Saxons were invading the area and building small settlements.

The Romans controlled the area until around 410 AD. By this time the AngloSaxons were gaining a stronghold on the area that was to become Norwich ...

As the Romans prepared to leave East Anglia, the Saxons were already starting to establish themselves. For a few years there was conflict between the Saxons and the Iceni. But eventually the Saxons settled along side the Iceni. At this time several streams (locally called cockeys) which had helped form minor valleys during the glacial period, still flowed into the Wensum. The occupation of the area was at that time concentrating in four areas - Norwic, Coslany, Westwic, & Conesford, all close to the river - but there were also other settlements spread out over a much larger area. It was an ideal area for settlement. The soil was good, there was still plenty of timber, there were several streams supplying fresh water, and the river, which gave them access to the sea, both for the herring fishing & access to Europe The villages were soon establishing industries such a pottery and metal working as well as the common ones of farming, weaving & fishing. Everything was expanding nicely. Then along came the Vikings... Just like the Saxons before them, the Viking ships made their way up the river Yare and made raids on settlements. At first, just isolated raids, but finally in 866 the Vikings invaded East Anglia. The Anglo-Saxon Chronicles recalls the event "and the same year came a large heathen army into England, and fixed their winter-quarters in East-Anglia, where they were soon horsed; and the inhabitants made peace with them." Having consolidated their position, a year later the Viking army rode off to attack York, not returning until 870 - "This year the army rode over Mercia into EastAnglia, and there fixed their winter-quarters at Thetford. And in the winter King Edmund fought with them; but the Danes gained the victory, and slew the king; whereupon they overran all that land, and destroyed all the monasteries to which they came." The Vikings control of the area was however short-lived, as East Anglia fell to King Edward the Elder in 917. But many Vikings remained in the area. Their names recorded in the many references to East Anglia in the Anglo-Saxon Chronicles. The Viking influence is still with us today in the names of many streets in Norwich, and the names of countless villages around East Anglia.

By the start of the 8th century the Saxons had established 5 or 6 villages within the area that was to become the medieval city, as well as several settlements just outside the area. The Saxon villages, one of which was called Norwic, were slowly merging together to form Norwich. The earliest found reference to the name Norwic is on a silver coin from the reign of King Athelstan c930. As mints could only be sited within a fortified place with a market, it can be assumed that by then the village had become a small defended town. Excavations have shown a Saxon defence ditch following the line of St George's Street, north of the river. It is assumed that the defensive line wrapped round at the end of St George's, and continued along the line of Cowgate and returning to the river at Whitefriars. But by the end of the 8th century, the settlements south of the river, not restricted by such massive defences, had expanded to cover a much greater area. No doubt part of that expansion was due to those of the invading Danes who decided to settle alongside the Saxons. The Saxon town whose name was to be based on that on the coins, had moved south of the river. Tombland became the focal point for the town. Situated at an ancient crossroads, it became the main market place, and also the seat of power with the Earl's Palace being built there. The Vikings however, had not finished with the area, and continued to raid. The Anglo-Saxon Chronicle records for the year 1004 AD.. " This year came Sweyne with his fleet to Norwich, plundering and burning the whole town." The town was rebuilt, and was just getting back to a normal way of life when along came the Normans... The Normans When the Normans arrived and conquered in 1066, Norwich was one of the largest towns in England with 25 churches and a population of over 5,000. With its easy access to Europe via the river Yare, it had become a thriving trade centre, and the Normans were not slow in realising the potential of the town and area. The heart of Norwich at that time was based around the ancient crossroads at Tombland. Here was the market place and the houses of the officials who istered the town. The Normans looked for high ground on which to build their castle. At the end of the Ber Street ridge the Normans first cleared the area of

Saxon houses and churches, then built a timber castle on top of an artificial mound with massive earthworks surrounding it. This was to be a royal castle. But within a few years it was the scene of an uprising plot against William by Ralph Guader the Earl of Norwich. But word had leaked out, and an army loyal to William laid siege on the castle. Ralph escaped and sailed to Denmark to seek help, leaving his wife Emma to defend the castle. But after 3 months she was forced to surrender and the King once again took possession of the town. The Normans also cleared the area to the west of the castle over the stream called 'The Great Cockey' to establish a new market place and homes for the Normans and Jews that came after the invasion. The old market in Tombland was closed, and the area to the east of the Tombland crossroads was given to the church. Houses and churches were cleared from the area and work began on the cathedral in 1096. It took nearly 200 years to complete the task. As the only natural building material in the area was flint, the facing stone had to be shipped in, mainly from Caen in Normandy. In 1100, work began on replacing the timber castle with a stone one. This was also built of flint and faced with stone from Caen. It took 20 years to complete the task. As Norwich started developing, two areas of the city were outside the control of the town Reeve - the castle 'fee' and the Cathedral precinct. Two areas that ever since have defined the development of the town. The Royal Castle and its fee (the area covered by the outer defences) were controlled by the Sheriff, who was responsible directly to the King. The Cathedral Priory was it appears, a law onto itself, and controlled the area of the Cathedral precincts, still walled to this day. Small conflicts between the Normans, Saxons and Vikings continued, but eventually the town became stable enough to receive a royal charter from Henry II in 1158, and another one from Richard the Lionheart in 1194. The Middle Ages But word had leaked out The Middle Ages were a time of conflict. When the barons rebelled against King John in 1215, the French Prince Louis was invited to seize the throne. Louis captured Norwich Castle in 1217 and plundered the town. The town was again plundered in 1266 by 'disinherited barons'.

During the 13th century, there was an influx of the European religious orders of friars. The Dominicans (Black friars) were the first to arrive in Norwich in 1226, followed by the Franciscans (Grey friars), Austin friars, and the Carmelites (White friars). In 1253 the defences of the town were enlarged with a new bank and ditch. This led to conflict between the town and the Priory. The monks accusing the town of tresing and enclosing their land. (At this time the priory owned all the land south of the town as far as the River Yare as well as other areas of land around the town). The quarrel led to brawls between some citizens and some of the Priory servants which escalated into a full scale attack in 1272. The Ethelbert Gate was stormed and the church of St. Ethelbert, the bell tower and most of the wooden buildings of the monastery were destroyed. The town was heavily fined, and ordered to rebuild St Ethelbert's Gate as part of the compensation. In 1297 work was started on building the city walls, a job that lasted 37 years. All inhabitants had to contribute to the cost. The walls and the 12 gates helped control the influx of people into the town, and of course, the collection of tolls. As the Market prospered and expanded, separate specialised markets were established. These are reflected today in the street names they became known by Haymarket, Timber Hill, Hog Hill (now called Orford Hill), and Maddermarket. In 1345 the outer baileys of the castle were given over to the control of the city, but the castle and mound remained under the control of the King's Sheriff. By this time the castle had become the county goal. In 1349, the Black Death arrived in Norwich, and further outbreaks of the plague in 1362 and 1369 led to the deaths of over a quarter of the population. Yet strangely this was also a time of prosperity. The wool trade was expanding, and Norwich became the centre of the activity and main market for the worsted cloth. In 1380 a charter was obtained giving the Bailiffs and committee of 'Twenty Four' (all rich merchants), the power the make and alter by-laws. A charter in 1404 replaced the Bailiffs with a Mayor and two Sheriffs, but control of the city was still in the hands of the rich merchants. Charters in 1414 and 1417 made Norwich a legal corporation and a county in itself.

Tudor & Stuart The wool trade brought great wealth to the town, and by the beginning of the 16th century Norwich was paying more in taxes than any other provincial town in England. But that statement gives the misleading impression of life in Norwich. Less than 30 of it's leading citizens controlled over 40 per cent of it's wealth. Ever increasing taxes and regulations imposed by the town and government officials led to a decline in the production of cloth and Norfolk wool was now being sold to the Suffolk and Essex weavers where there was less control. Many moved out of Norwich into the countryside where there was no restriction on occupations, and the town went into a decline. This decline was not helped by major fires in 1505 and 1507 which devastated large areas of the town. The dissolution of the monasteries in 1539 saw the demolition of the Franciscan, Carmelite, and Augustine monasteries. The Dominican Friary was bought by the Corporation. In 1540 work started on the building of the Duke of Norfolk's town house. This stood at the bottom of the Maddermarket where Duke Street stands today. The closure of the common lands led to Kett's Rebellion in 1549 and when Kett and his ers attacked the town across Bishops Bridge many of the inhabitants ed him. The rebellion was crushed some 3 weeks later and many were executed. Trade on the Market Place dwindled to such an extent that they had to pay someone to clear the weeds that had grown there. To try and revive the ailing textile industry, a group of Dutch weavers were persuaded to move to Norwich to produce russels and sateens. Religious persecution in the Low Countries at the time led to more immigration, and by 1583 there were over 4,500 of these 'Strangers' in the city. Although the population was increasing, the actual number of houses stayed practically the same as the poor were squeezed into smaller accommodation as houses were subdivided.

In 1578 Queen Elizabeth I visited Norwich as part of her East Anglia Progress. She stayed in Norwich for 5 days. The next year saw the first outbreak of bubonic plague followed by more outbreaks in 1625 and 1665. In all over a third of the population (mainly the poor) died. The battles of the Civil Wars took place away from Norfolk, but Norwich, in of the Commonwealth, did provide Cromwell's famous Maiden Troops. By the end of the 17th century the textile industry reached a peak and was producing a wide range of high quality fabrics, much of which was exported direct to Europe and the rest of the world, by-ing the London middle-men who had previously taken some of the profit. It is estimated that up to 10,000 people in and around Norwich were employed in the industry, most working is small home workshops. Georgian Norwich The influence of the Georgian period can still be seen today in Norwich. The wealthy built themselves new houses in the new grand style. Many that didn't rebuild their houses gave their properties a Georgian appearance by cladding the exteriors with thin brick tiles. And many public buildings were being built. The Bethel Hospital, the Shire House, the prison at St Giles, the Theatre Royal, and the Norfolk and Norwich hospital were all built in the 18th century. Banking and insurance was beginning emerge as a new force. The Gurney Bank was opened (later to become Barclays), and the Norwich Union Fire Insurance Society was founded in 1797. The other industry to emerge was brewing. Over the centuries, ale houses had brewed their own beer - often the ale house was just the front room of a house. Brewing wasn't difficult - the water, filtered through the Norwich clay was ideal, and Norfolk produced the best malting barley in the country. But big business moved in and by the beginning of the 19th century there were six large firms with their own breweries and public houses, producing more beer that the London breweries. The Castle Ditches had over the years become unofficial rubbish dumps. Eventually in the mid 1700's the area was leveled and became the cattle market. The main annual cattle sales took place in the countryside, the largest at Horsham St Faiths, just north of the city. Here the 'Fays Fair' was held every October. Besides cattle from around the region, there were also up to 20,000 Scottish cattle

being sold for fattening up over winter on the lush Norfolk marshes. The cattle had been shod for their over 300 mile trek to Norfolk. The Assembly House was reconstructed from existing buildings in 1755 and became a focal point of great cultural events in the Regency Period. And at the lower end of the Market Place the street was kept clear and eventually paved to become Gentlemans Walk, the fashionable place to stroll. At the end of the 18th century, all the city's gates were demolished. Traffic problems and hygiene were the excuses, but it was also probably to save the cost of maintaining them. Victorian Norwich The Victorian age saw the arrival of the railways. The line from Norwich to Gt. Yarmouth was opened in 1844, and the line to London was completed in 1846. Victoria Station was opened in 1849 and City Station in 1882. The only road into the city from Thorpe Station at that time was via Rose Lane. In 1860, Prince of Wales Road was built across what was in medieval times a Franciscan Friary to provide direct access into the city. The present Thorpe Station was built in 1886. In 1856 J.J. Colman moved from his mustard mill in Stoke Holy Cross to Carrow. Although Colman's will always be associated with mustard, after a few years the factory expanded to produce a variety of products including starch and barley water. Colman's was a remarkable company that was at the forefront in the care for itswork forcee. It had its own kitchen and canteen, sick ward, and fire service. Many of the workers lived in houses owned by the company. Yet in this enlightened time, there was still a gruesome spectacle that was about to end... In 1867 the last public execution took place between the gatehouses of the Castle. This execution took place early in the morning to discourage crowds. Previous hangings had attracted crowds of up to 30,000. After the hangings, the cattle market became an area of entertainment with musicians and street vendors. And of course, the pubs around the cattle market did a roaring trade. The decline of the weaving trade continued with the great mills of Yorkshire producing cheaper copies of the cloths made in Norwich. In a vain attempt to restore the trade the Norwich Yarn Company built a mill in 1834 and in 1836 St

James Mill was built in Whitefriars but soon had to close. By the end of the century there were noworstedd weavers in Norwich. Boot and shoe manufacture was on the rise. Howlett & White, Sexton & Everards, and Edwards & Holmes were the most successful, though several smaller firms existed. By the end of the century nearly 8,00 people were employed in the trade. And engineering was expanding as an industry. Charles Barnard built the world's first wire-netting machine in 1844 (based on the cloth weaving machines) and soon the firm of Barnard, Bishop & Barnard were selling wire netting all over the world. The firm had its own foundry, and also made wrought iron gates and structures. Boulton and Paul had a large foundry at the junction of King Street and Rose Lane. William Scott started making dynamos in 1883 and soon after Laurence & Scott's were formed. A.J. Caley was a chemist in London Street. In 1863 he started making mineral water at his shop. he moved to Chapelfield in 1883 and was soon making cocoa and chocolate as well as mineral water. They ended the century by including Christmas crackers in their products. The end of the century (and the end of Victoria's reign) was marked with the building of a tramway system in Norwich, which entailed new sections of road and the realignment of others. 20th Century Norwich The 20th century opened with the heart of the city being transformed by the arrival of the tram system. Where the ancient route from St Stephens Street through the city had gone thro' Red Lion Street, White Lion Street, Gentlemans Walk and London Street; the demolition of a building next to the Bell Hotel now opened a new route thro' Castle Meadow. And the ancient West-East route from St Andrews thro' Princes Street to Tombland, was replaced by a new road cut thro' from St Andrews to St Martins at Plea church and onto Bank Plain. But considering the amount of upheaval and work involved in its construction, the tram system's life was short, being replaced by buses in 1935 In August 1912 continuous torrential rain fell, amounting to over 7 inches in nearly 30 hours. Many streets flooded as the drains became blocked, and eventually the River Wensum overflowed flooding over 3,500 houses in low level areas near the river.

The First World War saw the Norwich factories of Mann Egerton and Boulton & Paul producing aircraft. Mann Egerton made Short seaplanes for the iralty (On August 2nd 1915, one of Mann Egerton's seaplanes attacked and sank a Turkish freighter carrying supplies to Turkish troops opposing the Anzacs at Gallipoli. This was the first ship sunk by an aerial torpedo). Boulton & Paul made Sopwith Camels and other aircraft. By the end of the war they had produced over 2,500 aircraft. In 1915 one of Norfolk's heroines - Edith Cavell - was executed by the Germans for helping prisoners-of-war escape. You can read about her on our 'Names & Legends' pages. By 1918, over 3,500 Norwich men had given their lives in the war. The period between the World Wars was marked by the building boom which saw the area covered by housing expanding way outside the old city walls. The two peak years were 1927 and 1938 when over 1,100 houses were built each year. The 1938 boom was mainly to replace slum clearance housing inside the city walls. High unemployment in the 1920's led to the unemployed being used to create the parks around the city - Earlham Park, Eaton Park and Wensum Park. In the 1930's work began on the demolition of the buildings on St Peters Street and the Market Place for the building of the City Hall and new Market Place. The City Hall was opened in 1938, even though it wasn't finished (and still isn't today!). During the Second World War, the German 'Baedeker' Air Raids caused a lot of damage across the city, mainly from incendiary bombs. How many businesses were destroyed isn't recorded, but of the 35,000 domestic dwellings in Norwich, 2,000 were destroyed, and another 27,000 suffered some damage. Fortunately, only 340 people were killed and 1,000 injured. As the war ended, the city council revealed what it had been working on before the war. It was published as a book - 'The City of Norwich Plan 1945' - a grandiose scheme of massive redevelopment which fortunately never materialised. But the seeds had been sown, and during the 60's Norwich Union led the way with the widening of St Stephens Street and the building of their office blocks. The final part of St Peter Street (at the top of St Peter Mancroft church) was demolished to make a car park for the new City Library, and the pleasant green area of the Haymarket was turned into a concrete jungle. The destruction of old Norwich continued in the 70's with the building of the inner link road which saw an ancient road junction and Tudor buildings in Magdalen

Street demolished to make way for a fly-over and concrete shopping centre and office blocks. The 90's saw the city centre again became a major building site with the Castle Mall being built above and under the old cattle market and under Farmers Avenue to the north side of Timber Hill. The Mall was opened in 1993. And across the Wensum the Riverside Leisure Complex along with a retail park and housing was being built all the way along from Carrow Road Football Ground to Thorpe Station. Riverside Road disappeared, and a new road - Koblenz Avenue - was built around the outside of the new development.